How I FIXED My Electric Slide "Bolts"

[cliffj]

Not sure what to think but had my slide motor replace at transwest, a fairly high level dealer for Newmar. Drove home, checked the torque of the bolts attaching it to the frame/bracket and thought they were loose.
Did the stud and nut fix and the slide bucked and bounced and came back in not square. Took it back...dealer said the problem was the stud/nut fix. They put back in the basic grade 8 bolt and lock washer and torque’d to 19#
Service memo from Newmar says torque to 19#...
19# is not that tight and the stud/nut fix seems more correct, but results suggest not that tight is better fix...anyone have issues with motor too tight and secure..?

[dp7]

Originally Posted by cliffj

Not sure what to think but had my slide motor replace at transwest, a fairly high level dealer for Newmar. Drove home, checked the torque of the bolts attaching it to the frame/bracket and thought they were loose.
Did the stud and nut fix and the slide bucked and bounced and came back in not square. Took it back...dealer said the problem was the stud/nut fix. They put back in the basic grade 8 bolt and lock washer and torque’d to 19#
Service memo from Newmar says torque to 19#...
19# is not that tight and the stud/nut fix seems more correct, but results suggest not that tight is better fix...anyone have issues with motor too tight and secure..?

Does the controller need to be reprogrammed or the hard stops adjusted after removing & re-mounting the motor?

[Winepress]

I did the stud and Nordlock bolt replacement over six months ago. No issues. Checked it today and everything is solid.

[srrobe]

I replaced the standard bolts with studs and nord lock washers & nuts over a year ago. No problem and still tight. I showed this to Newmar last spring while there for service. Tec agreed it was an excellent fix.

[FSU Camper]

SLS,
It’s been a while since you originally posted this. Any movement whatsoever on your torqued bolts? As always, information in these forums are so helpful for weekend projects!

[tom chelbana]

I on 18 LA the two kitchen slide out motor bolts were all lose and the bedroom motor bolts going into wood were also lose. Didn't take the motor out on kitchen slide out but did use studs with Loctight and double nuts.
On the bedroom slide out motor there were two issues. The bolts that hold the motor to a wooden beam had washers that were to large and the large wood screws pulled threw the washers which were way to large for screws. Because screws were lose had to do some repairs on the wood to get screws to tighten.
As we have owned 3 new Newmar's and this has to be the biggest problem over the years with all 3 coaches Lose Slide Out Motor Bolts. This problem has caused over a million dollars damage to coaches which is a low estimate. When we purchased our 18 LA it was one of the first things we checked and then made repairs and up grades.
Newmar Man

[SLS]

Originally Posted by FSU Camper

SLS,
It’s been a while since you originally posted this. Any movement whatsoever on your torqued bolts? As always, information in these forums are so helpful for weekend projects!

Okay Folks,

FYI........I just got back from California today, leave for Branson, MO Monday, then the SEMA Show and Supernats in Vegas, and then San Diego for winter. I am out of warranty by mileage now that I went over 50K before my 3 year warranty. I have also use over 9200 gals of fuel.

The reason I posted this is because I use my motorhome a lot and can open and close my slides up to 5 times a day. I stop at rest areas, truck stops, dry camp, and that is why I "FIX" things. I have posted on this forum how to fix your slides, fuel belching out when filling, your water tank from syphoning down to 2/3rds when your headed out to dry camp, I have the solution to my STOP LIGHT's being ON all the time with my exhaust retarder (I tow my stacker trailer all the time and at 15K on trailer axles) my brake lights are on everytime I take my foot off the gas pedal.

With-That-Said:
Just before I left on my trip to CA last week and I had just got back my Snap-On torque wrench being calibrated by Snap-On. I decided to check my slide bolts just to see if they were holding and properly torqued. I had not checked them since February.
Out of 8 "Nuts" on my kitchen slide only one had the slightest movement before it click-off. I set the torque wrench at 25lbs.

The "FIX" is "THE FIX" I stand by my solution to this problem.

SLS

["007"]

Thanks for your follow up SLS, I would say you have many happy campers with your fix, many are using it and Newmar has been shown it by one member I know of, maybe it will give them a hint to apply it.
You mentioned some other fix's are they posted? I will post them all with the bolt fix, for members.
Thanks again, SLS.

[SLS]

Originally Posted by "007"

Thanks for your follow up SLS, I would say you have many happy campers with your fix, many are using it and Newmar has been shown it by one member I know of, maybe it will give them a hint to apply it.
You mentioned some other fix's are they posted? I will post them all with the bolt fix, for members.
Thanks again, SLS.

Thxs 007 for the kind words and I am glad to hear it has helped campers.
I did post the fuel filling "FIX" and the water tank syphon "FIX".

On the fuel filling fix I posted how to fix it and also a work-around if you don't have the skill or mechanical ability. You may want to post both. The work-around is to make sure the highest point of the MH on the fuel island is the fill-neck you are filling. You only need a 1% tilt for this to work. You will get a "FULL" tank doing this but you will need to slow down when you hear it gurgling. This does let the air out of the tank. This is the "Rube Goldberg" fix..........LOL The "Real" "FIX" is to vent the tank properly as explained in the "FIX"...

So that a lot of members don't get "Amped-Up" about the exhaust retarder brake lights vs service brake. The freightliner shop manager and I are researching the necessary parts to install a brake-light switch like the old cars had on the service brake. (The answer is YES before for anyone post their question)..........LOL

SLS

[dp7]

Originally Posted by SLS

Okay Folks,

FYI........I just got back from California today, leave for Branson, MO Monday, then the SEMA Show and Supernats in Vegas, and then San Diego for winter. I am out of warranty by mileage now that I went over 50K before my 3 year warranty. I have also use over 9200 gals of fuel.

The reason I posted this is because I use my motorhome a lot and can open and close my slides up to 5 times a day. I stop at rest areas, truck stops, dry camp, and that is why I "FIX" things. I have posted on this forum how to fix your slides, fuel belching out when filling, your water tank from syphoning down to 2/3rds when your headed out to dry camp, I have the solution to my STOP LIGHT's being ON all the time with my exhaust retarder (I tow my stacker trailer all the time and at 15K on trailer axles) my brake lights are on everytime I take my foot off the gas pedal.

With-That-Said:
Just before I left on my trip to CA last week and I had just got back my Snap-On torque wrench being calibrated by Snap-On. I decided to check my slide bolts just to see if they were holding and properly torqued. I had not checked them since February.
Out of 8 "Nuts" on my kitchen slide only one had the slightest movement before it click-off. I set the torque wrench at 25lbs.

The "FIX" is "THE FIX" I stand by my solution to this problem.

SLS

Does the controller need to be reprogrammed or the hard stops adjusted after removing & re-mounting the motors?

[SLS]

dp7:

NO.
In the "FIX" instructions I explain to move the slide out 3 to 4 inches to relieve the torque on the motor and shaft. Just remove bolts, disconnect wire, and slide off shaft.
I did not move the slide while I installed the studs,nuts,washers and did not need to reprogram limits.
On my bedroom slide I just slid the motor back and installed studs, nuts, and washers.
Someone on this thread may share their experience if different.

SLS

[dp7]

Originally Posted by SLS

dp7:

NO.
In the "FIX" instructions I explain to move the slide out 3 to 4 inches to relieve the torque on the motor and shaft. Just remove bolts, disconnect wire, and slide off shaft.
I did not move the slide while I installed the studs,nuts,washers and did not need to reprogram limits.
On my bedroom slide I just slid the motor back and installed studs, nuts, and washers.
Someone on this thread may share their experience if different.

SLS

Thanks!

[AbdRahim]

Thanks for the info.


Sure would love to see someone make a video of this for the less mechanically gifted.

[SLS]

I don't have time right now to make a video but if I can I will. I would be happy to walk you through it over the phone.
After you do the first one on the kitchen side you will see it is easier then what you think.
The bedroom side is only hard because of location and access.
What model do you have?

You would need to PM me your phone number.

SLS