Community Forums

wagonmaster2 · 02-03-2020, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ptw

I agree that it is good to run the Oasis at least monthly, mainly because of the diesel fuel. I don't agree that not running enough is the major contributor to the loop pump failures. The summer loop pump runs every time you use hot water unless the furnace is running. We were in our RV full time using the Oasis regularly and our loop pump failed when the RV was 6 months old. Oasis has since changed to a different pump because of all the failures. It is more likely a pump design issue.

Yeah Paul, you beat me to it. Agree whole heartedly that no way can summer loop failure be blamed on lack of usage. If anything it;s probably the fact that pump is used so much that it fails. I can't imagine anyone spending a day/night in their coach without needing hot water at a faucet or shower. Looks like another example of a manufacturer of a product with lots of failures trying to blame it on the customer. Otherwise it might look liike a recall and they'd have to replace all pumps of a certain model that fail.

rlsharp · 02-09-2020, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C.Martin

A quick way to check the AC1 and AC2 is to look at the Precision Circuits Electrical Managment panel. If the air conditioners aren't running...before you flip the Oasis switch pull up the Leg 1 and Leg 2 current draw. Then turn on AC1 + AC2... each element is connected to a separate Leg...so both current readings should bump up an equal amount. If one doesn't move...it's probably a goner.

I believe my AC2 is not working.
When I turn on AC1 I get a steady 12amp pull.
When I toggle on the AC1&AC2 switch I still see a 12 AMP pull and no more.
I suspect my AC2 is not energizing or is defective.

Still under warranty so I guess I should take it in.

richpatty · 02-09-2020, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rlsharp

I believe my AC2 is not working.
When I turn on AC1 I get a steady 12amp pull.
When I toggle on the AC1&AC2 switch I still see a 12 AMP pull and no more.
I suspect my AC2 is not energizing or is defective.

Still under warranty so I guess I should take it in.

I have seen this sporadically as well...my thought is that each element has its own thermostat...so one may go one without the other if the water is close to max temp...

This is a guess. Any one know for sure they run off the same thermostat inside the Oasis?

VP Chianese · 02-09-2020, 05:32 PM

The early 2015 units had a smaller Summer Pump. 18 watts or so those were the ones failing. The newer ones and replacement pump is 60 watts.

DSD. The issue with the fuel filter is lack of fresh fuel through it not what it filters out of good fuel. That filter sits up there in the front of the coach and if we are not using it the Diesel that is in it just stays and the warm diesel grows Algae. That is what clogs the filter, Gel when it is cold and Algae when it is warm. The $28 bucks it cost to change it is just good prevention.

The Oasis 110 V elements last a long time, mine have been on every day for the last three years. The fact that they are in Glycohal is why they out last regular electric water heater elements. That's why there is no need for Sacrificial Zn. Water has Ca, Na and a host of other items that play hell when they come on contact with electric elements.

fantasyisle · 02-09-2020, 06:55 PM

11 years for mine, only had to replace aquastatsa couple times. New fuel filter primed with SeaFoam every year, run the burner periodically to keep the diesel fresh.

ptw · 02-09-2020, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rlsharp

I believe my AC2 is not working.
When I turn on AC1 I get a steady 12amp pull.
When I toggle on the AC1&AC2 switch I still see a 12 AMP pull and no more.
I suspect my AC2 is not energizing or is defective.

Still under warranty so I guess I should take it in.

Are you hooked up to 50 Amp service? What screen are you looking at?

This is my coach. First picture is ACI/ACII off. Second picture ACI on. Third picture ACI/ACII both on.

Dahai · 02-09-2020, 11:06 PM

Been full-timing solo for a year and eight months. I usually need hot water only once a day for showering, shaving, etc., so that's when I turn on the heating elements. Prefer to eat out most of the time, so I seldom wash dishes. Just don't need much hot water, so when I'm finished cleaning up I turn off the elements until the next day.

I turn them off to avoid running the summer loop pump constantly. Seems to me, like any moving part, the longer the pump runs the sooner it's going to wear out. I turn on the burner periodically when the ground water coming in is particularly cold or I need hot water in a hurry.

I run the furnace only occasionally to exercise it. The fans are too loud to my ears for every day heating. The heated floors and two space heaters take care of my heating needs down into the high 20s.

Have had no problems with the system so far.

VP Chianese · 02-10-2020, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dahai

I turn them off to avoid running the summer loop pump constantly.

Summer does not run the pump constantly. Winter does. So on summer it only runs when needed.

What you are doing is fine. But if you leave them on all of the time you never have to wait for hot water and they do not wear out because current flows through them. It is corrosion that kills that type of heating element.

rlsharp · 02-10-2020, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ptw

Are you hooked up to 50 Amp service? What screen are you looking at? This is my coach. First picture is ACI/ACII off. Second picture ACI on. Third picture ACI/ACII both on.

Thank you so much for the photos!
This is what I was looking for.
I'm looking at the same panel.
When I toggle on the ACI/ACII switch the current never changes from the 12amp when in the AC1 position.
Your photos definitely show the extra current draw when placed in ACI/ACII.
I believe the second element never worked after the coach was built in 2019.
I'm going to take a look behind the panel to ensure the wires are connected properly.
(I do see 2 110v lines going into the Oasis.

Thanks again this is what I needed for troubleshooting so I can take the same photos and send to Newmar.
Randy

FPengineer · 02-11-2020, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ptw

Isn't changing the filters and cleaning the nozzle most important? I did my first annual service. Oasis did the next two services. We decided not to change the igniter since I carry a spare and know how to change it. He said it either works or it doesn't work. I am still using the original igniter with just over 800 hours on the unit. I will change it this year on the 4 year service since we hope to be winter camping in ski country later this year and don't want to have to change it in a snowstorm.

Quote:

Originally Posted by PandS

ITR recommends that the oasis should be exercised monthly, similar to generators. They claim lack of use is a major contributor to loop pump problems.

Run the diesel burner for around 15 minutes, while running hot water thru a faucet or the shower, and set the thermostat so that the zone heat runs. -Paul

I would expect the the main cause of element failure would be operating them while they are not submerged in glycol, which means fluid level in the boiler is less than half full (such as from a fluid leak). There is a low water monitor switch that I presume is primarily intended to prevent the burner from firing in low water. I do not know if the electric elements are controlled by that safety device. As long as the fluid is at least up to the cold line on the reservoir (and your system is purged of air), your hot water boiler should be full.

rlsharp · 02-29-2020, 01:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rlsharp

Thank you so much for the photos!
This is what I was looking for.
I'm looking at the same panel.
When I toggle on the ACI/ACII switch the current never changes from the 12amp when in the AC1 position.
Your photos definitely show the extra current draw when placed in ACI/ACII.
I believe the second element never worked after the coach was built in 2019.
I'm going to take a look behind the panel to ensure the wires are connected properly.
(I do see 2 110v lines going into the Oasis.
Thanks again this is what I needed for troubleshooting so I can take the same photos and send to Newmar.
Randy

After spending some time troubleshooting the AC elements on our Oasis and the help of ITR tech support I finally found our problem with the ACI/ACII Elements not developing full current when activated. Apparently the #2 AC Element developed internal corrosion and one of the leads attached to the element had come loose. ITR is sending me a new element and that should solve the mystery of why I never had 24amps on the panel when selecting Both AC I & AC II heating elements. Refer to photo: