Community Forums

IamGadget · 07-23-2020, 01:26 PM

Hello
does anyone have experience with the Hvac system. my fridge is being replaced and I am not familiar with a choice (if I want it) they have 2 Hvac systems. one is 120V. and the other is 12/24 V.......they have compressors.
thank you

twinboat · 07-23-2020, 01:37 PM

HVAC is Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning.

If your talking about JC refrigeration , they offer 120 volt and 12/24 volt compressor style fridges.

If you already have a decent inverter onboard, the 120 volt model will be fine. You just plug it into an inverter poweref outlet.

If your inverter has a high amp IDLE draw, ( check the specs ), you may be better off with the low voltage model.

Some old inverter/chargers draw 3 to 5 amps, just being on. That's often times more then the fridge draws, and the fridge only runs some of the time.

BillJinOR · 07-23-2020, 01:54 PM

The people I have actually talked to that had it , 2people both 120volt , love them. I have read really nothing but positives , other than those that don’t have them and worry about amp Drain on the battery boondocking. The two people I actually talked to don’t boondock much but felt the draw was minimal
I hope they aren’t calling it a hvac system as said that’s already been the std listed above forever [emoji6]

IamGadget · 07-23-2020, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twinboat

HVAC is Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning.

If your talking about JC refrigeration , they offer 120 volt and 12/24 volt compressor style fridges.

If you already have a decent inverter onboard, the 120 volt model will be fine. You just plug it into an inverter poweref outlet.

If your inverter has a high amp IDLE draw, ( check the specs ), you may be better off with the low voltage model.

Some old inverter/chargers draw 3 to 5 amps, just being on. That's often times more then the fridge draws, and the fridge only runs some of the time.

Thank you for your reply. I am not familiar with electronics. 2004 Dutch Star.
I have a Xantrex inverter. It is the JC refrigeration product.1 cjoice is AC compressor 110-120V, .8A, 96.4 W, 56% duty cycle @ 80F Amb. and 2nd choice is 12v- 24v. 7.5A 90W 56% duty cycle @ 80F Amb.

or I can get their regular replacement unit which appears to be built a lot heavier and better than Norcold.

Not knowing what I am getting into, there is the fear of the unknown so it is difficult to make a decision

bonzocfi · 07-23-2020, 02:38 PM

Was there two weeks ago and had the 120v compressor wired to my inverter. Couldn't be happier. Just got home and the average temps were 35/-4. Tell JR that Steve says hi!

dbike199 · 07-23-2020, 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bonzocfi

Was there two weeks ago and had the 120v compressor wired to my inverter. Couldn't be happier. Just got home and the average temps were 35/-4. Tell JR that Steve says hi!

I actually installed JC's 120 volt model today in my 1200 Nevercold. I put it in my 2005 4010 DSDP. It was over 80 degrees in the fridge when I finished the install. Pretty simple to install.
I just checked it and after only 4 hours it was zero and 35 degrees! WOW! I set it on 3 and will see what the temps look like in the morning once everything settles in.

Steve, I'm pretty sure I meet you last week at Spartan and looked at how JR installed your fridge. Right?

Mark

Luv2go · 07-23-2020, 06:35 PM

If you boondock (or dry camp) a lot I'd go for the 12V one, it's a little more efficient. If you don't I'd go for the cheaper one which could be the 120VAC one. I personally would not go for the regular replacement gas/electric unit, I've had too much trouble with them in the past.

tommar · 07-23-2020, 07:45 PM

I think that the cheapest way to go is to replace your broken Norcold fridge is to buy a new residential (home) fridge and to remove the Norcold entirely. You already said you have an inverter and with that and the house batteries you should be able to boondock, travel with the fridge on, and don't forget you have a generator too. A residential fridge will cool down in 2 hours vs. 2 days that an absorption (Norcold or Dometic) fridge requires. Currently, I have a Dometic side-by-side fridge and as it still works, I'm going to keep using it. But if it tanks, a residential fridge is in my future. I priced a new Dometic fridge similar to what I have and it's north of $4K!

I can buy a res fridge for about $1200. But as I do not have an inverter, I will need to buy one and the batteries for it.

DRM901 · 07-24-2020, 08:36 AM

The new inverter refrigerators are the best option if you are going with a residential model. A LOT less amp draw.

harleyjt · 07-24-2020, 09:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tommar

I think that the cheapest way to go is to replace your broken Norcold fridge is to buy a new residential (home) fridge and to remove the Norcold entirely. You already said you have an inverter and with that and the house batteries you should be able to boondock, travel with the fridge on, and don't forget you have a generator too. A residential fridge will cool down in 2 hours vs. 2 days that an absorption (Norcold or Dometic) fridge requires. Currently, I have a Dometic side-by-side fridge and as it still works, I'm going to keep using it. But if it tanks, a residential fridge is in my future. I priced a new Dometic fridge similar to what I have and it's north of $4K!

I can buy a res fridge for about $1200. But as I do not have an inverter, I will need to buy one and the batteries for it.

Yes, its cheaper, but, in many if not most cases, you will have to deal with some amount of carpentry as well to make it look right. It’s hard, if not almost impossible to find a residential unit that fits the same hole exactly that the absorption unit was in. When mine fails, I’ve already made up my mind that I’ll do a conversion and keep the old box as its in good shape. I’ve heard nothing but good things about JR and his products and services.
jt

bonzocfi · 07-25-2020, 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dbike199

I actually installed JC's 120 volt model today in my 1200 Nevercold. I put it in my 2005 4010 DSDP. It was over 80 degrees in the fridge when I finished the install. Pretty simple to install.
I just checked it and after only 4 hours it was zero and 35 degrees! WOW! I set it on 3 and will see what the temps look like in the morning once everything settles in.

Steve, I'm pretty sure I meet you last week at Spartan and looked at how JR installed your fridge. Right?

Mark

You are correct. Was nice meeting you. Sounds like you did a great job on your install. I only wish this mod had come out years ago. Safe travels.

tommar · 07-25-2020, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by harleyjt

Yes, its cheaper, but, in many if not most cases, you will have to deal with some amount of carpentry as well to make it look right. It’s hard, if not almost impossible to find a residential unit that fits the same hole exactly that the absorption unit was in. When mine fails, I’ve already made up my mind that I’ll do a conversion and keep the old box as its in good shape. I’ve heard nothing but good things about JR and his products and services.
jt

Each to his own, I guess!

My fridge currently is a Dometic side-by-side. Dunno if JC has a kit for that. I'm not ruling a JC conversion out but a residential fridge is deeper and has at least a third more usable space inside. Plus, frost-free and virtually instantly cold!

IamGadget · 07-27-2020, 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tommar

I think that the cheapest way to go is to replace your broken Norcold fridge is to buy a new residential (home) fridge and to remove the Norcold entirely. You already said you have an inverter and with that and the house batteries you should be able to boondock, travel with the fridge on, and don't forget you have a generator too. A residential fridge will cool down in 2 hours vs. 2 days that an absorption (Norcold or Dometic) fridge requires. Currently, I have a Dometic side-by-side fridge and as it still works, I'm going to keep using it. But if it tanks, a residential fridge is in my future. I priced a new Dometic fridge similar to what I have and it's north of $4K!

I can buy a res fridge for about $1200. But as I do not have an inverter, I will need to buy one and the batteries for it.

Thank you....I do not want to go through the hassle of removing the fridge and trying to get a new one. This one is the 4 door. I also do not want to get involved with carpentry so the new model looks built in.
I am trying to decide between the two compressor units. One is 120V and the other is wired to 12 V.

I do not know enough re the electric use and if I got the 12V I would think the fridge should run off of this as well by converting 120 to 12V. ( I would think?) thanks again

IamGadget · 07-27-2020, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bonzocfi

Was there two weeks ago and had the 120v compressor wired to my inverter. Couldn't be happier. Just got home and the average temps were 35/-4. Tell JR that Steve says hi!

Hello
I have been in touch with JR and I am trying to decide between the 120 V or the the 12 Volt. I do not know enough about electric to know the pro and con of each. I have a 2004 Dutch Star with a Xantrex RV2012 ( 2000 watts) model.
any input is greatly appreciated. thank you