I want to add 2nd grab-rail inside stairwell

[WoodyS]

Our 2008 KSDP only came with a single grab-rail inside the entry stairwell. I've seen that newer Newmars have a second one mounted diagonally under the dashboard. I want one like that.

I asked the Newmar service place where I was yesterday if he could do it and he just said NO. But I'm sure there's a way. I figure that either some plywood backing needs to be added to the inside of the dashboard to stiffen it, or angle-iron bracing needs to be added behind the dashboard.

My immediate problem is that I can't figure out how to get back inside there. There are no visible screws. So I'm wondering if Newmar used automotive type snap fittings (such as found on car interiors).

If anybody has suggestions regarding the grab rail or how to get into the dashboard area there, please let me know.

Here are a couple of photos of our stairwell. I've marked in green where I want to bolt the diagonal grab-rail.

[Arch Hoagland]

Can't help you on how to mount it but I can say it's a great idea.

We have a friend who fell out of her RV and an extra rail would have possibly prevented it.

[NWIP]

Not sure about mounting but I will say location on 2019 models seems a little better. I have as you are thinking and will say once on the interior steps it becomes a little low. 2019 it is horizontal and a little higher and I noticed it right away when looking at the new models.

[Dutch Star Don]

"WoodyS".....Under the dash panel where you want to install the grab handle, is a black metal grate that runs from the front door, around the center of the dash and over to the throttle pedal. It has several screws that hold it in place. You need to remove those screws and remove that grate. There are a couple of screws up under the edge of that panel that need to be removed and then the panel will come off. Once off, use some plywood as a backer, glue it on and then add the handle.

[WoodyS]

Don,

Thank you very much! I found those screws. I'll remove them tomorrow and go from there. Gluing on a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" ply was my thinking too. I'll just have to see how much room there is.

[Dutch Star Don]

"WoodyS".....When you reinstall the panel. Push it upward and then install the screws that hold the panel. The reason being, the upper dash rests atop that lower panel. If you don't use a little upward pressure when installing and tightening those screws, the dash will want to flex when you push on it.

[RKins]

How flimsy is the plastic? Now that you know how to access the rear of it, you might need to keep someone from ripping the whole panel off (or damage the console) if they lose their balance. Look to see if you can reinforce the whole panel plus where you'll attach the handles (good idea on the handles though).

[WoodyS]

Rick,

It turns out, only the curved part of the vertical panel is plastic. The frame is 3/4" x 3/4" solid stringers every 7.5" -- with 3/4" x 3/4" solid wood around the outside. Where the plastic attaches to the straight parts, the curved part of the frame is 3/4" plywood cut to the curve radius with aluminum stapled on both sides.

The actual dashboard top is framed with pieces of 2" x 2" and even some 2" x 4". Then the top is 1/4" plywood with the plastic on top of that. So it's actually pretty strong.

The flat vertical panels attach at the bottom to a bent steel structure -- the black kick-plate with the louvers in it. It rests on bent steel flanges with screws going through the flanges and into the panel's external wood frame.

I cut four blocks of 3/4" ACX plywood to fit between the frame stringers and glued them in with Gorilla Glue. So now I've got a solid 7/8" thick (3/4" plywood and stringers plus the original 1/8" plywood) vertical panel under the dash. I intend to through-bolt the grab handle through all that 7/8" of wood.

The handle is supposed to arrive tomorrow.

I'm not sure my handle will fully support 200 lbs., but I think it'll be plenty stiff and solid enough.

When I'm done I'll post photos of the process here.

[RKins]

That's good to know WoodyS