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teamwally · 12-20-2011, 04:35 PM

We are about to head for the ski areas for a couple of weeks. Expect temps in the low 20s.We will be plugged in, using electric heat. I am uncertain about the need to disconnect the plumbing to the Norcold with built in ice maker. Newmar suggests disconnecting the line at the supply solenoid then blowing it out, I would assume I need to put a shut off in this line. My question is: will the heat from the fridge keep the supply line from freezing up ? I am also uncertain about the Splendie washer/dryer. We wont be using it, but I do have a concern with the supply line that run across the back of the closet getting too cold. Any help from the more experienced hands would be appreciated.

ottffss · 12-20-2011, 06:57 PM

Your Norcold ice maker likely has heat tape on the ice maker (and in-door-water) supply lines. Look at the lines exiting the solenoid and see if they are covered with a silver "tape" - the solenoid itself may also have a strip of silver tape around it as well. These will be good well down into the 20's. The feed line INTO the solenoid may (is likely) to be unprotected. You'll need to judge this freeze potential yourself. Refer heat doesn't really impact the temperature at the bottom where these are. Many folks will put a light bulb in the bottom of the refer exterior access to heat the water/solenoid area you are talking about

The Norcold winterizing is simple - disconnect the lines (ice maker, water-in-door) at the solenoid and just let them drain. Most likely these plastic "nuts" are just finger tight. Cover the lines with a baggie afterwards to keep clean. There is no blowing of these lines, just let them drain. The INPUT water line needs a wrench and I just disconnect and shake it out. Of course - turn off the "ice maker" style turn off valve (probably under the sink) first and unplug the ice maker as well! Verify that your specific Norcold model still follows this procedure from the Norcold MANUAL - there might even be a Norcold tag hanging on one the lines stating this exact procedure. .

Where are you skiing that it'll only hit the lower 20's?????? Even at night???? I'll bet colder and would suggest draining the lines as above. Takes 5 mins from start to finish. And no time to restart when it warms.

David Smith · 12-20-2011, 07:14 PM

When you say in the bottom of the refer, are you saying inside the reefer? Mine is in a covered storage with power, an I planned on leaving the fridge doors open, also,
I have a Hydro-Hot and have the inside temp set in the mid 40"s. Other than draining the outside line to the Icemaker do I need to do anything else?

ottffss · 12-20-2011, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Smith

When you say in the bottom of the refer, are you saying inside the reefer?

Not inside... The light bulb is placed in the OUTSIDE access area where the OP was talking about the ice maker water solenoid location.

If you winterize your Norcold you won't need to do this - the light bulb that is.... I'm at 0F right now and all I do is drain per Norcold's instructions... No light bulbs for me....

If you winterize the entire rig why do you even leave the HydroHot on? Yes, most definitely, refer doors open (or use the built-in in door holder-opener-latches) when stored....

David Smith · 12-20-2011, 07:47 PM

I'm not winterizing, which is why I am leaving the Hydro-Hot on. I can expect temps around Zero or below which is why I'm curious. This is the first winter that we have had a storage site with electricity, and it will allow us to take short trips that we wouldn't have before because of the hassle of winterizing after every trip. In the past we have always had the dealer do it for us, and stay home for the winter. This year should be different.

ottffss · 12-20-2011, 10:09 PM

david - I see, I'd only drain the refer lines and leave everything else "hot" and "wet" so to speak. HH on low like 40F, basement heat on 35-40 or so, leave the water on board - pump off - and the like. For me, even down to -35F (over a couple days) I've never winterized anything (except drain the Norcold) in 5 years of mostly full timing. If I store for a week or so in the winter I do just as you do. All you lose with the refer lines disconnected is the ice maker. I just use ice trays all winter.

You'll be fine with just the electric side of the HH (1400watts or so) at 40F inside, 35-40F basement and 0F outside. Put a couple thermometers that store max/min around and check on them from time to time to see how "close" you might be cutting it. I think you'll have plenty of buffer even into the sub zeros outside temp.

If you want a little extra safety margin add one of those oil-radiator electric heaters (no moving parts to short) attached to a separate thermostat set at 35 in the middle of the rig inside. This will kick on only in that extreme case the inside drops to 35.