Inside Sanicon Controls

[Raggs365]

Inside Sanicon Controls
Posts by DS Don, Redbaron73, NeilC and others showed the advantages of having inside controls and electrical valves, with wiring being one of the challenges. I hoped to put the controls in the half bath electrical cabinet. Newmar confirmed that there was no underfloor heating under the ‘skinny’ cabinet in the half bath, so I:
1) Removed the grill on the bottom side of the skinny half bath cabinet.
2) Drilled through the tile with a 1-3/8” tile hole saw. This required a 1” hole in the shelf above and using a somewhat Rube Goldberg set up to get the proper access and verticality (1st photo, tho' I used more extenders, all of hich had to be assembled in the cabinet). I also drilled 1” holes in all the shelves above, up to the electrical cabinet. [NOTE: this worked for my coach; drilling in yours is your decision 😊.]
3) Drilled a 1/8” pilot through the plywood to ensure it would come out without impacting other pipes, wiring, etc., then used a 1-1/8 spade bit.
4) Inserted a ¾” electrical conduit 90* sweep in the hole (flange up) and connected to ¾” conduit over to the electrical bay (2nd and 3rd photos). The ‘stuff’ and wires in the background are related – I think – to the heat exchanger in the bottom of the cabinet, and I wanted to stay as far away from them as possible. I used conduit because the sweep made it easier to pull the wires and I didn’t know how hot the heat exchanger would make the compartment.
5) Pulled 7-wire doorbell wire and the 2 wires to control the Drainmaster Pro electric gate valves. The 7 wires are for the momentary switches and the SeeLevel II tank monitors were also installed.
6) This is what the final install looks like inside (4th Photo) and outside (5th Photo)
Unfortunately I was unable to complete the project myself due to health and other factors, so had everything installed, which means I have no pictures of that part of the project. Fortunately, one of my newest sons, Sebastian, designed and built the necessary relay in such a way that even I couldn’t screw it up (all connections were labelled); my installer said it was easy to figure out. Since this is a long post, I’ll post that info separately, along with a parts list.
Al

[Raggs365]

As promised, here’s the information about the relay Sebastian designed which I used. All parts were, and I think still are, available on Amazon. Sebastian also sent me a PowerPoint (slides attached) with a wiring diagram; you should confirm its accuracy before relying on it. One unique thing is the presence of the timer module. This automatically shuts the system off after 4 minutes, though it can be adjusted for shorter or longer times. Note that the system can also be shut off manually by using the momentary switch at any time.
Power for everything is from the original Sanicon installation. The original ON/OFF switch is now a master switch for the Sanicon and Valves, with the SeeLevel drawing power from before the switch.
Please let me know if you see any problems and I might be able to get answers to any questions.
Wet Bay Parts list

DrainMaster Electric Valves
SKU: 6004 -- Pro-Series S3VT 'Ultimate' Kit for 2 valves and 2 Double Switch Panels
https://drainmaster.com/rv/products/full-view/100454

SeeLevel II
MFG P/N: 709-1003 -- Garnet 709 SeeLevel II 3 Tank Monitoring System
https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Garne...p/709-1003.htm

MFG P/N: 709-MO -- Garnet 709 SeeLevel II 3 Tank Monitor - Monitor Only
https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Seele...play-p/709.htm

Relays
Item 996152131 -- HELLA 996152131 12V Delay-On-Release, Time Delay Relay, Black
https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-9961521...7337137&sr=8-2

Item 931680011 -- HELLA 931680011 12V 20/40 Amp SPDT/Form C (Sealed), Green
https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-9316800...7339342&sr=8-4

‎Item H84988001 -- HELLA H84988001 4-Way Mini Relay Box Kit
https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-H849880...s%2C232&sr=8-3

ASIN‎ 25 Feet Power Cable LED Low Voltage Lighting Ul2464 18/2 Red & Black Pair 12 – 24 Volt Dc
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T25NCC2...Tvw1-Rvxt19Foc
ASIN B00T25NCC2

ASIN‎ B01MQV6NJR (2 sets to get 2 ea red and green) Baomain 16mm Push Button Switch Momentary Round Cap LED Lamp Red Yellow Orange Blue Green Light DC 24V SPDT 5 Pin 5 Pack

Sanicon Hose CamLock connecters
https://www.proflow-dynamics.com/
1-1/2 Type A and Type B, also Type DC and DP caps
Al

[Dutch Star Don]

Here's something I later discovered. Since both of my toilets are macerator toilets, I rarely run the SaniCon now when I dump. I do use it when I flush the tanks.

When the toilets get full and the yellow or red light comes on, I simply open the black drain, electrically, turn on the half bath overhead light and walk away for 4-5 minutes. The light reminds me the drain is open. I come back after a few minutes and the black tank is empty.

This is great for departure day, as the tanks are empty when I pull the slides in. It also helps those that are a little concerned that the SaniCon hose may come lose while pumping from the inside of the coach. With the SaniCon pump off the black tank drains via the SaniCon bypass, like the grey tank does. This ONLY works for those with macerator toilets.

[Golfer Guy]

With the macerator toilets why does one need to have the SaniCon system? Isn't that just a double grind so to speak?

I think the electric gate valves are one of the best additions that can be done on these coaches. IMHO

Al, very nice write up on your MOD. Looks like a perfect setup.

[Dutch Star Don]

[QUOTE=Golfer Guy;5865965]With the macerator toilets why does one need to have the SaniCon system? Isn't that just a double grind so to speak?/QUOTE]

You're correct about the SaniCon being redundant in grinding the back tank twice, but I have the SaniCon system for the hose and bypass. I never disconnect hose, have to rinse or find a place to carefully store it without dripping on my shoes.

I pull it out of the wet bay, it's already attached, connect it to the campsite drain, with 3", 4", and 5" adapter already on the hose, open the grey valve and I'm done. When we break camp, I disconnect the hose from the sewer drain, screw the cap on the end and stuff it back into the wet bay.

I know many on here say they only hook up the sewer hose when need it and it's no big deal. I think they forget that we've all dealt with the same thing and at one point or another, and it can be a pain.

My sewer hose is sooooo easy to connect that I do it every time we stop. That way I never have to worry about a toilet light coming on at 11pm or I can't run the dishwasher or washing machine because I'm not hooked up. Most importantly, I'm not crawling under the FWS to connect a hose....it kills my back.

I sill use the SaniCon pump when I occasionally flush the tanks.

[Raggs365]

Thank you DS Don and Golfer Guy for your comments. I'm just trying to make things simpler and easier . I always learn something here.

[Mr JP]

Very Nice write up thanks