Installing 12 button CCC2 on an older Dometic (Penguin) A/C

[BrokeDown]

I installed 3 Dometic 3312022.000 boards in my 3 Dometic Heat Pump A/Cs today. I also installed a CCC2 thermostat. I checked all of the switches before and after I installed the control boards. After resetting the thermostat (per the instruction), I am getting a E7 error. That error indicates no AC to the control board. I checked and all 3 have AC.

Someone mentioned a jumper may need to be installed. There are two lugs on the control board marked T6 and T7. I do not have a wire on them. The wiring diagram shows a wire going from T6 to the white AC wire.

Has anyone run into this before?

Thanks
Brokedown.

["007"]

I have this and this link in QT's 1 & 2.

[Luv2go]

IIRC to use three heat pumps with the CCC2 you need to run 12v to the third heat pump. It's possible the manuals 007 linked to are installation instructions for the CCC2 but I can't open them on my phone. They would have that installation detail plus troubleshooting hints.

[BrokeDown]

Thanks for the links. I have the manuals and followed them while installing the new boards.

I really think the issue is related to the T6 lug. The wiring diagram shows a wire from T6 to the white AC line. I'll check with Dometic in the morning.

Thanks
Brokedown

[Luv2go]

Yes, the T6 or T7 wire must go to neutral, that should resolve the error code.

Which model number heat pumps are you adding these to? When I looked at doing this a couple of years ago Dometic said I could not add this to older Penguins as the reversing valve defaults to heat on the old ones and to cool on the new ones. They made a board to convert the Penguin II to CCC2 but not the other way around.

[BrokeDown]

In early October 2016 I called Dometic about upgrading the thermostat to a programmable one. I gave them the numbers off of my AC (Model # 630516.331D)

They said I needed the new thermostat part # 3314082.000 and 3 new control boards part # 3312022.000. I double checked and they are the boards that I have.

I will call Domedic on Monday morning to make sure they gave me good info verify that the jumping T6 to neutral will fix the problem. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Thanks for the info!

Brokedown.

[BrokeDown]

I just spoke to Dometic. They are now saying that the CCC2 will not work with my older heat pump (because of the reversing valves.) When I called the company that sold me the control boards, they said that I may be able to reverse the reversing valve? He is going to ask his tech. I am not sure this is a great idea but if it gets me into the programmable thermostat, I will give it a try. Stay tuned!!!

[Luv2go]

Originally Posted by BrokeDown

I just spoke to Dometic. They are now saying that the CCC2 will not work with my older heat pump (because of the reversing valves.) When I called the company that sold me the control boards, they said that I may be able to reverse the reversing valve? He is going to ask his tech. I am not sure this is a great idea but if it gets me into the programmable thermostat, I will give it a try. Stay tuned!!!

You definitely can reverse the reversing valve. It will require a normally closed relay with a coil voltage the same as the reversing valve, probably 120VAC. If the tech can't figure it out (or isn't willing to for liability reasons) I can post a sketch. It will take the relay, some extra wiring and some fastons (spade lug connectors) with an extra male connection so you can access line and neutral for the relay. Finding an appropriate relay that fits safely and is correct electrically will probably be the biggest challenge.

[BrokeDown]

Thanks Luv2go! Please send the sketch. With my (Xerox) service technician background, I should be able to get this done.

I spoke to the tech and he said the same thing as you. He said he uses a 6CWZ1 relay to do the job. https://www.grainger.com/product/SCH...er-Relay-6CWZ1

He also suggested that if I wanted to run the AC prior to doing the conversion, I could remove the reversing valve wire from the control board and supply 120 V to the valve by taping into the compressor AC supply. What do you think about that as a short term solution?

Thanks again!
Brokedown

[Luv2go]

(Mod Edit)

I'm pretty sure this will work, but please accept it as advice only and feel free to modify as you see fit. And of course with your experience you know all the rules about working with high voltage, etc. 120V is not as high as some of the high voltages in large copiers but it will still give you a good zap. I still remember being zapped by a focus rectifier on the first TV I repaired as a kid (back when they were all tubes).

If you need to run the A/C the tech's advice will work, and, as I noted in the sketch, tapping the Blue wire to the compressor supply will keep the reversing valve from being energized all the time.

Looks like they will work fine.

(Mod Edit...first .pdf replaced with this below)

ReversingValveReverserSketch.pdf

[BrokeDown]

You are SOOOO awesome!!!
Thank you!
Stay tuned.
Brokedown

[BrokeDown]

Hi Luv2go,

Stage one, AC only, is done and seems to be working. It is a cool evening so they are not working very hard.

In the jumpers picture I have a green wire for jumping the yellow (med speed) wire to T2. The long white wire went from the cap to T6, the wire I took off of the cap went to T7. The blue wire jumped the compressor and the reversing valve together.

I did not have the proper crimping tool for the piggy back faston so I crimped it with tool that I had and soldered it. The blue wires picture and the jumpered wires picture shows how I made that connection.

I’ll order the relay and do stage two ASAP. I’ll practice on the first two ACs and video the process on the third. I’m pretty sure others would like to see the process that you came up with.

Thanks again!
John

2 sets of jumpers


Soldered connections


Jumper for compressor and reversing valve