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Old 04-08-2021, 11:11 AM   #1
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Intellitec 2 lock lights blinking, travel (middle) solid

Hi, I am in the middle of troubleshooting an intermittent bedroom slide issue that has gotten worse over the last 2 months. It happens either coming in or going out. Where when I hit the inside switch the lock arms get into the proper position, the voice alarm is activated and then the inside indicator light just blinks. The controller light show LA1 & LA2 blinking and the middle SO light is solid. No movement.

Can some tell me what conditions is causing this light condition? I have searched a lot and can't find anything specific. I remember once seeing something that described all the light conditions, but can't find it. I'm thinking ignition or motor current adjustment.

I high tried a lot of troubleshooting idea's on this site. No luck. I hope to hear back. In the meantime, I will get a good ground from the battery and apply to pin 5. If I can get the slide out, start taking apart the lock arms and inspect/clean the proximity sensor switches.


Intellitec 00-00719-000

Tried
Sprayed connectors & reconnected
Sand fuses & moved connectors
Slightly taped locking arms
Sprayed outer potentiometer and rotated several times, back to original
- the slightly moved to the left
Replace controller??

Thanks.
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Old 04-08-2021, 12:10 PM   #2
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I put a more solid ground wire to the battery = no change
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Old 04-08-2021, 01:45 PM   #3
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Update - I was able to get the slide out. Hit the button about 5 times with each try going to the blinking light with no movement. Then I could hit the button and hit it again quickly and could make the locks close and stop. I did this two more times, the lock arms going in and out, 3rd time letting it continue and the slide motor kicked in and went out. After this, I was able to cycle the slide in and out about 7 times, no problems. I did with the battery ground boost disconnected.

Any idea's? I want to permanently solve this issue. Thanks
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Old 04-08-2021, 10:21 PM   #4
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The only thing I found was in the service manual for the slides and it says that the flashing LA1 and LA2 led means it has hit 30 second time out.
In another area it says the LEDs flash if the lock out arm potentiometer is set too high.
I believe this is R13.
An easy test would be to decrease R13 by turning counterclockwise just a bit. Sometimes these Pots get dirty and act up, I give them a small squirt of contact cleaner and rotate them back and forth a few times to clean. Remember to put them back to close to the position you started with.
Good luck finding your problem.
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Old 04-09-2021, 05:30 AM   #5
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lbnaz - Thanks for looking into this. I read something similar on a Newmar troubleshooting document. Getting to the R13 pot requires taking the board out of the cover. Your suggestion will be my next step.

I also read to check the proximity switch connectors, contacts and alignment for the magnets. It seems to me if this is an issue only 1 LA locking arm light would blink, unlikely both bad. True??

FYI, I read about fluorescent ballast causing issues. Ruled out, I shut the lights off. Also. wiggle the key, took it out to test ignition condition. I don't really see this as an issue, because my other slides work fine. I key the key out.

Thanks for any suggestions?
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Old 04-09-2021, 06:45 AM   #6
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I think the flashing is caused by the 30 sec timeout meaning that both lock arms have not hit their current limit in 30 seconds. If Current limit R13 is set too high they will not be able to hit their limit even though the lock arms are out and locking the slide in. If you want to rule out whether its the controller or switches /wiring/contacts you can swap the controller board with one of the other slides just make sure current limit pot for the slide in/out is set low enough so it can not cause damage (pot R9). just set R9 close to the position of the board your swapping with.

For R9 clockwise decreases Amps (opposite of R13). This will tell you if there is a controller board problem or a switch/wiring problem. Note the starting position of R9 of the board you are using to swap so you can put it back when you put board back to original location.
Swapping boards is usually one of the first things I do to isolate what area to look, bad board or wiring\switches. You can swap in less than 1 minute and its helps point you in the right direction.
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Old 04-09-2021, 09:46 AM   #7
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lbnaz, Thanks again for your research on this. I was reading the manuals regarding the pot adjustments. I was double checking the direction of each pot as R13 & R9 are opposite.

Today, I tried this slide and it has worked each time I tried. I am going to wait until it doesn't work again (maybe later today, few days or longer). I just want a cause and effect when turning the amp setting down on R13. Depending on the results, I will move on to spraying it and do a board swap that you outlined.
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Old 04-11-2021, 10:41 AM   #8
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Small Update. Slide is back to not working. If anyone is still reading this post. How do you remove the board easily from the plastic box it is mounted in? The picture should be rotated 90 degrees clockwise.

Thanks
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Old 04-12-2021, 06:51 AM   #9
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with the Electrical connectors on top, On either side of the Plastic cover there is a lip. In your picture the lip has what looks like mounting holes. One hand on the left and One hand on the right lip. With your fingers, Flex the lip from underneath each side. The cover should pop off. Be prepared as the control board will also fall out as the cover is what keeps it in place.
Good Luck
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Old 04-12-2021, 09:21 AM   #10
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Bing Go (Hopefully) Update

Got the PCB out on my bench, sprayed and rotated Pot 9 & 13. Put them back in at the at the same position. The slide did not work, the same conditions as before.

Next, I turned Pot 13 about 15 degrees counter clockwise. Hit the button and shazam it worked. Put the slide in and out 5 times, no issues. First time I tried something with cause and effect. Just hope this was the root cause to the intermittent issue and not a fluke.

lbnaz, Thanks for that explanation on the PCB cover. It worked great, a little brute force at first but it did pop off. I was going to try different force solutions prior to my last post, then it started raining hard. Your reply with a known way to do it was perfect. Sometimes dealing with snap plastic pieces can be the hardest part of a project.

lbnaz, thanks for staying with this thread and helping me get this thing figured out. Hopefully I won't be replying again with this issue.
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Old 04-12-2021, 11:23 AM   #11
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Glad it helped you out. I am just helping others as they have helped me.
I know more about those slides than I want to know. It's both good and bad.
Glad slide is working, now you know how easy it is to change or swap a control board.
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Old 04-13-2021, 07:22 AM   #12
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So my '04 DSDP was doing the same thing intermittently last year. A call to the Intellitec folks got me info that Newmar used frame ground for the controllers and that has caused issues in the past. The recommended I ground the brown pin 5 wire in the controller directly to battery negative. I half tapped the wire and did run it to the negative side of converter/charger. I've used it about a dozen times since without any issues. I only had problems with one slide and the other three were doing OK but I plan to tie all those to the same wire I ran to the charger negative side.
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Old 04-13-2021, 12:01 PM   #13
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Update - Last fix was not long lived.

Went out earlier today to test my slide and it did not work again. Tried 5 or 6 times with same previous results. Blinking on the inside switch and the LA1 & LA2 LED's.

Next, popped the board cover and slightly moved Pot 13 counter clockwise. First try, the same result, no slide movement and the blinking lights. Second try, the slide worked and then the next 4 times.

My next move is to swap circuit boards with another good slide board. But I thought I should wait until it doesn't work again. Also when I do, should I try to move the pot settings close to that of the one that is currently in it (to be replaced)? Or leave it alone?

Another note is once it does work, it then works many times in a row and mostly doesn't work after a day. The coach is plugged 120V 20A.

Thanks for any advise...
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Old 04-13-2021, 03:04 PM   #14
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I would put the pot setting of replacement to same position as existing board. write down where they were so you can put them back to the original position when you put the replacement board back from where you got it.
I haven't had to add the ground wire Fefanatic added but, It is a good idea. you might want to give that a try.
Intermittent problems are the worst ones to solve, you just have to keep at it until root cause is found.
The board swap should at least tell you if you have a board issue.
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