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Old 10-07-2020, 07:59 AM   #1
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It takes a shoulder block to open our door

I know there has been posts on this, but dang if I can find them. Our 2017 Baystar 3401 has a door problem. Sometimes it is easy to open but most times it requires a super hard yank from the outside or throwing your shoulder into it from the inside. We took it to our Newmar dealer and they adjusted it for $75. Two weeks later (that was our next venture) it reverted back. The dealer said the could re-adjust for another $75......NOT-no way. If anyone had been successful in a similar problem, please give me some advice. Thank you Newmar family.
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Old 10-07-2020, 08:12 AM   #2
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Try moving the stud.

The stud on the frame that the door latches onto is adjustable and moveable. Try messing around with that. It might do you well to try to figure out if the door is binding on the stud, frame or something else. I also wrapped a length of electricians tape around the stud. Made it a bit quieter and smoother to release the handle.


Good luck.
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Old 10-07-2020, 08:59 AM   #3
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Check your screen door latch! Our MADP was acting like yours but it turned out the screen door latch was not fully retracting when it was latched to the main door. A simple adjustment to the 2 screws on the main door fixed the issue.
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Old 10-07-2020, 11:13 AM   #4
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Both answers above could be your problem. The screen door hanging up doesn't sound like it could require such force, but it can, if it's not releasing.

Second, on the door stud, I know my Dutch Star has a floating stud. It floats so that if the frame is a little tweaked the door will still open. I don't know what the Baystars have. It should float. If it does, trying lubing the stud with some silicone, making sure it moves up and down. They don't move freely, it takes some pressure to get them to move. If your stud isn't a floating model, then you need to adjust it. Make sure you spray the latch well too.

Fixed door stud.....if your stud is fixed and doesn't move, your door is opening okay on days that the coach frame is just right and the stud is centered in the latch. On the days that it sticks, you need to make the adjustment. If adjusting, look closely to see if the stud is touching the upper or lower portion the latch. Adjust it, moving the stud a smidge away from the side that is touching. You want to end up where the stud is good in positions, fame level and frame tweaked.
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Old 10-07-2020, 11:22 AM   #5
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Is there any kind of pattern to the sticking door problem ?

I've noticed that , with the door side of the coach in full sun for a few hours , not only does the ( black ) out side handle get too hot to touch , but as you've mentioned opening effort increases. Several adjustments later , the situation is less but , then my DW complains of wind noise when on the highway .
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Old 10-08-2020, 03:05 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426 View Post
Is there any kind of pattern to the sticking door problem ?



I've noticed that , with the door side of the coach in full sun for a few hours , not only does the ( black ) out side handle get too hot to touch , but as you've mentioned opening effort increases. Several adjustments later , the situation is less but , then my DW complains of wind noise when on the highway .


These suggestions have all been helpful. Firstly, the hex headed stud is fixed and doesn’t float at all. Since I posted this, I have found similar threads that recommend removing the door trim and replacing the inner mechanism. See attached:

“I’m glad to get back to you with good news. With help from PTL Engineering I finally fixed my door so it doesn’t rattle.

The mechanism controlling the placement of the door (in / out, or tight / loose) is behind the stainless steel plate visible in the jamb with the door open. PTL calls it the “Mov-A-Bolt assembly”. It is accessed from inside the coach in the door jamb. I had to remove the trim around my door to see and access it. The attached photo (Series 3000 installation and adjustment instructions 2011 003) is a diagram of the “Mov-A-Bolt” with adjustment instructions, provided by PTL Engineering.

Photo 1*(attached) shows the cover over the “Mov-A-Bolt” in my coach with the door trim loose but still in place.*Photo 2*shows the cover with the trim removed. (I also had to remove the stainless steel grab bar at the far right of photo 1.) Removing the cover reveals the “Mov-A-Bolt” assembly itself and the six screws holding it in place with the cover removed.*Photo 3*is the “Mov-A-Bolt” assembly. The “bolt” itself is in the lower portion of the assembly. The striker bolt threads into this bolt in the coach. The striker bolt is the hex headed pin that the door latch locks onto when the door is closed. (The striker bolt must be unscrewed before the “Mov-A-Bolt” can be removed.) The star cam is visible in the upper portion of the assembly. Note the small hole in that cam on the right side. Rotating that cam to different positions pulls the door tighter (or loosens it). There are two cams, one on each side of the “Mov-A-Bolt” assembly. In the center (actually it is off center) there is a round pin which holds the two cams in place. I took a drift pin and struck it with a ball peen hammer to remove it. After re-positioning the cams hold them in place with a piece of cellophane tape so they don’t fall out.

I said in one of my earlier posts that when I tightened the striker bolt, it (the bolt itself) moved as I gave it the final Ľ turn with a socket wrench. I tried many ways to hold the bolt in position as I gave that final turn but it always moved. In desperation I tightened the bolt and then tapped the washer that the bolt passes through with my ball peen hammer. After several taps the bolt moved down into position. As we used to say, “if it doesn’t work, try a bigger hammer”.

Thanks to all who responded to my plea for help. If anyone has any questions, I’d be happy to try to answer them.”

Before I go to all this trouble, I am going to lube the heck out of the latch in the morning when I wake up. I have already replaced and re-adjusted the screen door latch. That didn’t help. I don’t think the sunlight affects the situation but it does seem to be more difficult to open after we have traveled greater distances, making me believe the frame around the door is flexing.

Again thanks to all and I’ll report back.
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Old 10-08-2020, 08:59 AM   #7
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Hey JVL2Y. No pictures were posted. Can you try again I would really like to see this info?

By the way, we just love Paso Robles. Lived in San Jose for almost 30 years so PR was just down the street. Has some Tobin James last night with our smoked tri-tip. But I digress. Would like to see those pictures.
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Old 10-08-2020, 12:14 PM   #8
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Old 10-08-2020, 12:16 PM   #9
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These are the pics of my door. Let me try to get the pics posted on the PTL mechanism. Yes we love our Paso wine. Our son is on the industry for Broken Earth. Good wine there too.
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Old 10-08-2020, 12:49 PM   #10
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Great suggestions

It is the PTL mechanism I really want to see.

We have a 2017 3401 as well. Bought it used from a private seller with under 7K miles in April 2019.
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Old 10-08-2020, 01:05 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidceder View Post
It is the PTL mechanism I really want to see.



We have a 2017 3401 as well. Bought it used from a private seller with under 7K miles in April 2019.


The post I found it was “PTL door closing posted on 9-10-19 by red baron73. But he showed a url for the whole Mov-A-Bolt adjustment at: http://ptlengineering.com/how-to/
Sorry I couldn’t repost the pics but if you follow the thread you will find a lot of info by members.
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