Large power draw on chassis battery '94 Kountry Star

[Stan.Birch]

Originally Posted by clyon51

If your problem is dead chassis battery while camping or storing with shore power, then that Trik-L-Start would correct your problem.

The use of Trik-L Start, is merely a bandaid to mask an unaddressed underlying problem.

[clyon51]

Originally Posted by Stan.Birch

The use of Trik-L Start, is merely a bandaid to mask the underlying problem.

Agree, you take over and fix all these folks problems for less than $50. Tell them how to trace and fix a parasidic load on 5 circuits. I will watch with interest.

["007"]

If he does not have Bird System and he finds the problem he can use the Trik-l-Start but that works off house batteries and he needs shore line plugged in to keep house batteries charged and battery cut off switch on to charge the house batteries.
Do not use Trik-l-Start if you have the Bird System.

[Stan.Birch]

Originally Posted by clyon51

Oh I agree that's possible being everything perfect. I left home for 4.5 months. I knew I had to keep a trickle charger on our '99 Expedition and '94 Chevy PU just by experience. I didn't however do that to the '12 Equinox, which was fine.

While the now extinct Chevy/Workhorse chassis was notorious for parasitic chassis battery drain, this has never been a problem with Ford.

Notwithstanding, up here in the frosty North, it has been my practice to run a jumper cable between the house and chassis batteries when I put the rig to bed for a few months.

[Stan.Birch]

Originally Posted by clyon51

Agree, you take over and fix all these folks problems for less than $50. Tell them how to trace and fix a parasidic load on 5 circuits. I will watch with interest.

I really can't imagine anything more elementary than pulling chassis fuses one at a time to discover which circuit is responsible for the battery drain.

And for sure, if someone can't figure out how to address something that elementary, then they shouldn't be fiddling with an RV electrical system. Any local yokel mechanic could figure out how to fix the problem, nothwithstanding that the failed elecronic component could cost a bit more than a mere $50!

[clyon51]

Originally Posted by Stan.Birch

While the now extinct Chevy/Workhorse chassis was notorious for parasitic chassis battery drain, this has never been a problem with Ford.

Notwithstanding, up here in the frosty North, it has been my practice to run a jumper cable between the house and chassis batteries when I put the rig to bed for a few months.

Well you are wrong about Ford, I' ve had two.

So you lied when you said you can go 5 months on a chassis batt with no charger? On shore and no BIRD, a jumper cable would maintain a chassis batt. Any batt will self discharge in 5 months with zero drain.

I think I need to leave this tread, Adios.

[omegacanuck]

No BIRD, and I don't tend to store with shore power plugged in (not terribly feasible in my parking situation). I do tend to plug it in for a day before going out, to cool off the fridge, top off the batteries (if they need it, usually don't). That's why I like battery disconnects. My last MH, a 1988 Fleetwood, had disconnects for both house and chassis. When I parked it, I hit the disconnects and went away. My Newmar only has house disconnect. The whole problem started when the chassis was going dead way too quick. Replaced the battery, but still had the same problem. Put on a manual disconnect, but was finding I still had to use the boost off the house batteries after any length of time. I don't mind having to use the manual disconnect when parked at home for a couple weeks, but having to do it while camping to start the generator was getting a bit old. Fast forward to now where I think I found I had a defective new battery, it still started good after 5 days. When I get it back from the shop (whole other story, whole other thread) I want to make sure I run the engine for a bit, then let it sit for 5-7 days again, and then check the voltages. If still having a draw, then certainly looking for a draw (good to know it's 50 milliamps I SHOULD be expecting)

[Stan.Birch]

Originally Posted by omegacanuck

I want to make sure I run the engine for a bit, then let it sit for 5-7 days again, and then check the voltages. If still having a draw, then certainly looking for a draw (good to know it's 50 milliamps I SHOULD be expecting)

The Ford daytime running light (DRL) control module tended to be one of the annoying culprits for this kind of parasitic battery drain in that era.

["007"]

Do you have any small wiring off the positive post on your chassis battery?
If you do it maybe coming from the LP Detector as on newer coach's and they have a switch it the display area to shut off the battery drain when coach is placed in storage.
The LP battery lead could have a fuse that could be pulled also while in storage.
LP lead could also be off a battery lead where ever heavy battery lead is connected.
The ground wire for LP could be connected at some other location other than near the chassis battery.

[omegacanuck]

Well, I let it sit for 5 days (no real reason to that time frame, I guess it'd be about the longest I'd ever plan on being camping in one spot right now). Went out, chassis battery sitting at 12.47 volts. Didn't start it up (going to be doing that Sunday), but 12.47 seems quite acceptable to me. Lesson learned, even new batteries can be defective. Looks like I got a non-defective one this time though.

[GaryKD]

Thanks for the up date.

["007"]

Allot of lessons learned in this thread omegacanuck looks like its finally been resolved.

[Alibamafan]

where did you find the TRIK-L-START ?