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Old 08-28-2017, 01:03 PM   #1
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Leaking water from our fresh water tank/air admittance valve

While camping at Carter Caves State Park in Kentucky we had to resort to filling our fresh water tank and using the pump to create enough volume at the faucets and shower heads.

When I fill the fresh water tank there is a loud chattering/buzzing noise while filling. I am fairly certain that the noise isn't the pump. When filling, it takes a very long time to fill the tank even with 40-50 psi of pressure available.

I am wondering if the air admittance valve on top of the fresh water tank is defective or perhaps there is some kind of restrictor behind the white wet bay panel.

1. I am hearing the chattering noise on the wet bay side. Restriction or Water filter acting as a restriction?

2. Because it takes an eternity to fill the tank. Water filter?

I also can see evidence (water on top of the tank near the valve) of the valve leaking whenever I fill the tank more than 3/4 full and travel. Could these things be related or is there a restriction on the input side that would slow tank filling? I really need to get this addressed and need some advice.

I have already repiped the overflow to prevent syphoning (our coach did that) by raising the pipe 18" and looping it back down to the overflow drain pipe that goes through the basement floor.



You can see the valve I am talking about immediately to the left of the anti-syphon piping I installed.

Any help would be appreciated as my basement floor becomes more damaged as time goes by.
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Old 08-28-2017, 01:38 PM   #2
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The air admittance valve, when working properly, just lets air back into the tank as water is drained/consumed.

When filling, there is the resistance of the reel of hose, the water filter, and the ball valve used to direct the fill, and the back pressure created by the duckbill overflow port on the basement floor of the coach. I am not sure about the newer coaches with auto-fill added.

I cannot think of anything that would chatter.

I did my loop a bit differently...and I'm actually going to remove the Newmar air admittance so I van use that port to connect a second fill port...that way I can use it with a 12v pump and 60gal water blivet to enable transferring water into tank when boondocking. Bypassing the resistance of the filter.
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Old 08-28-2017, 01:40 PM   #3
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Charlie I think that the system will pass about 2-2.5 gpm. The hose on the reel isn't a very big diameter. And yep it takes a long time. Just put in 89 gallons, was really low on my 105 gal 2017 DS. Got a lot of other stuff done while it was filling for 40 minutes.

I don't think it is the air admittance valve. I added an overflow setup with an air admittance valve (residential Ostey) and made no difference in fill rate.

If you find water on top around that black AAV then it might not be sealing and should be replaced.
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Old 08-28-2017, 01:49 PM   #4
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Air Admittance Valve.....one way only

Allows air IN when draining
Does NOT allow air in when filling....it closes

Tank takes a long time to fill due to lack of VENT on tank

Chattering noise probably check valve in the city water connection
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Old 08-28-2017, 02:15 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Air Admittance Valve.....one way only

Allows air IN when draining
Does NOT allow air in when filling....it closes

Tank takes a long time to fill due to lack of VENT on tank

Chattering noise probably check valve in the city water connection
Old Biscuit,

I wrote up my problem because I saw your post in an older thread. I understand the concept of the admittance valve but I am not sure it works correctly.

Where would that check valve be? I've already replaced one on the black tank rinse system, where might I find this one? I have a set of plumbing schematics for my Northern Star but they are vague at best.

ghaynes754,

No hose reel on my coach. Direct hose connection with a ball valve directing city water or fresh tank fill. I did find the water on top but sealed with approved plumbing putty. I still have a leak though but it may not be coming from there.

C. Martin,

I have the exact same idea for fresh water fill. I thought I would leave the admittance valve in the circuit but plumb straight up from it's current position using a street wye transitioning to a threaded cap to the outside of the peg board as my gravity fill point and place the valve on the top of the stack.
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Old 08-30-2017, 11:22 PM   #6
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I've been trying to run down a fresh water tank leak. I have been at this for a couple of months now. Today I raised the air admittance valve about 16" and added a gravity fill on the pegboard side of the coach (PVC on the left side of the photo).

Previously (about a month ago) I resolved my syphoning issues by creating a high loop above the tank and out through the duck bill. I thought the water in the bay had come from a faulty connection to the duck bill and was a result of the water sloshing out through the overflow.

That turned out not to be the case. So I tackled another water connection today and will see if I still end up with water in the bay after I drive a 6 hours on Friday. If that doesn't cure it I guess I will tear out the wet bay cover and see if the leak is on that side.

The slot just right of center is so I can see the tank and gauge how full it is as I gravity fill it from the pegboard bay. This is what I came up with.





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