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Old 12-24-2016, 05:18 AM   #1
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Locking a surge suppressor to pedestal

I have read and understand the value of having a surge suppressor for the coach. I also looked in my electrical bay to see if I have room for a hardwired surge suppressor but it looks like it's slim pick'ns for room


So I started thinking portable and specifically this model (EMS 50x)
Progressive Industries RV Surge and Electrical Protection industry lea

My question is how/ what would you lock the device to on a pedestal? Is there a preferred lock that can clamp down on everything? Seems that this device would be attractive to thieves and even though it has a locking ring on it, can it be used?
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Old 12-24-2016, 05:31 AM   #2
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Progressive Industries sell this

Progressive Industries RV Surge and Electrical Protection industry lea

But with a little rearranging and removing the bucket I bet you could put a hardwired model in that bay and not have to worry about it again. Check the specs for the dimensions of the box.
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Old 12-24-2016, 06:08 AM   #3
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i just loop a chain around the cord part of the suppressor and again low around the pedestal locking it back on itself. Might not sound secure, but trust me - the only way it is coming off short of knowing the combination on the lock is to cut the 50 amp electrical wire. Have always assumed that thieves would be smart enough to know this would defeat the purpose, but you never know...
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Old 12-24-2016, 06:37 AM   #4
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Best of both portable and hardwired world's is to cut your shore cord short and install a connector in the power bay, connect the portable unit there, and put a connector on the shore cord effectively making it an extension cable.
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Old 12-24-2016, 07:34 AM   #5
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Quote:
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Best of both portable and hardwired world's is to cut your shore cord short and install a connector in the power bay, connect the portable unit there, and put a connector on the shore cord effectively making it an extension cable.
I thought about figuring out a way to put plugs between the bucket and the xfer switch so I could just insert the portable. I hate to get rid of the bucket - the power "coiler" needs that bucket to coil the cable correctly I think - it does eat up some room though.
Another option is to remove (or relocate) the black board in the back that has the cable, telephone and AC plug for block heater. That would free up the bottom part of the wall.
This might be one of those "wait until I go to a show and offer to buy one of the hardwired models if they can figure out how to install and do install it"
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Old 12-24-2016, 08:33 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vsheetz View Post
Best of both portable and hardwired world's is to cut your shore cord short and install a connector in the power bay, connect the portable unit there, and put a connector on the shore cord effectively making it an extension cable.
I've been concerned about this approach. Would have liked to have had a portable connected this way (in fact I'd like to get a Hughes auto former with surge suppressor built in, but I've been worried about arcing over time at the new 50 amp plug connection inside the coach bay. Perhaps this is undue caution, but I'd like to hear from any electricians on the forum about this approach.
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Old 12-24-2016, 09:18 AM   #7
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I'm not an electrician, but I cut my 30 amp shore cord more than 5 years ago and wired in an outlet. With mine I had to fight to get cord thru a 4 inch hole in the bay floor. After the modification all I have to do is pull the coiled wire out onto the ground and then pull about a foot of cable up thru the hole.

My 30 amp cord is just 3 colored wires that were easily wired to the plugs. It is downstream from the surge guard so it would protect the coach if a mistake was made.

Since your coach is yet to be built, why not get Newmar to put one in for you?
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Old 12-24-2016, 09:20 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrPhil View Post
I've been concerned about this approach. Would have liked to have had a portable connected this way (in fact I'd like to get a Hughes auto former with surge suppressor built in, but I've been worried about arcing over time at the new 50 amp plug connection inside the coach bay. Perhaps this is undue caution, but I'd like to hear from any electricians on the forum about this approach.

Agree with Vince. Installed my hard wire Progressive 3 years ago and haven't had an electrical problem since than. Used the Camco 50 amp males and female plugs in between the Progressive and transformer. If I do have a future problem with the Progressive, I'll just unplug the adapter and use my 50 amp extension cord for power.
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Old 12-24-2016, 09:46 AM   #9
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I have basically the same electrical cabinet you have and I mounted a permanent hard wired surge protector on the floor beneath the transfer switch. I took a little time and the area is crowded but it's done and screwed to the floor. All I have to do is to pull the electrical cable from the reel and plug it in.
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Old 12-24-2016, 10:34 AM   #10
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We have had a Progressive portable 50 amp surge protector for about 2 years. Up until about 6 months ago I would lock protector to the electrical pedestal, however for the last 6 months I no longer secure it and have has no issues. My thinking is if there's a will, there's way and it will get stolen if somebody really wants it. Also I have yet to hear of someone having a portable one stolen.
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Old 12-24-2016, 10:39 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okmunky View Post
I'm not an electrician, but I cut my 30 amp shore cord more than 5 years ago and wired in an outlet. With mine I had to fight to get cord thru a 4 inch hole in the bay floor. After the modification all I have to do is pull the coiled wire out onto the ground and then pull about a foot of cable up thru the hole.

My 30 amp cord is just 3 colored wires that were easily wired to the plugs. It is downstream from the surge guard so it would protect the coach if a mistake was made.

Since your coach is yet to be built, why not get Newmar to put one in for you?
For the reasons outlined, Newmar denied the special request.
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Old 12-24-2016, 10:53 AM   #12
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Rick...a HW version should fit. I'm pretty certain your power bay and mine are nearly if not identical in size with the same power cord tub.

I like the HW version for a few reasons.

1. Optional second read out. I have one in the power bay during set up ana a second one in the coach near all my other readouts. I can monitor power usage and see if there are some issues developing with power quality any time of the day. As an example, I have been able to see how some parks voltage drops quite a bit during the day as air conditioning units come on line.

2. No issue with water intrusion into any part of the system. In 2 cases I had a CG forbid the use of anything (external UPS or dog bone adaptors) because they extra plug was not protected from weather. YES...I know highly rare.

3. Internal "guts" of HW versions very easy to replace. The system does have a pass through capability in case portions of it fail. I don't know if the portable versions can be user fixed with parts.

4. Can be configured to be after the ATS to also protect against generator errors. They are rare but do happen.
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Old 12-24-2016, 10:55 AM   #13
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The question of 'built-in' or 'outside' surge protector is always a tough decision. I have an 'outside' one for the following reasons:

Now that it's several years old and hasn't been stolen .... yet. If someone rips it off, they are getting a protector that is at least 6 years old and well used. I'll get a new one with better engineering and features.

The big decision maker for me was seeing an SP at Camping World, that was literally blown apart and melted like chocolate on hot asphalt. It absorbed a lightning strike protecting the owner's RV***. I don't know about ya'll, but a surge protector works as a giant 'fuse' should there be a problem. When she blows, I want it many feet away from my RV. I DO NOT want it inside the dang thing where there's would likely be a 'cascade of events' leading to the loss of the RV. Hopefully, everyone (including our pups) would not be inside or could get out in time to watch it 'smolder' to the ground.

** Yes, we could have a discussion about the effects of induced current in RV wires as a result of a close in strike. Or, the effects of electro-magnetic pulse causing problems in the electrical systems, computers, electronics, etc.. Could happen. Might not have any effect. And, it's easier to replace a 'board, computer, electronic device then having your RV burn out
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Old 12-24-2016, 12:27 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LJowdy View Post
I have basically the same electrical cabinet you have and I mounted a permanent hard wired surge protector on the floor beneath the transfer switch. I took a little time and the area is crowded but it's done and screwed to the floor. All I have to do is to pull the electrical cable from the reel and plug it in.
Do you have a pic or two that you can post please?
I was thinking there is room to move the transfer switch up a little.
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