low hot water pressure

[koresample]

From what I have read I think I may have some bunged up check valves on our 1999 4080dp. Has anyome else had this problem and if so, is there an easy way to access the check valvesor iit time to pull the heater?

[94-Newmar]

Add your coach info to your signature line - it helps us with identifying exactly what you are working with :-)

Do you have low pressure or low flow?
Is it low at every tap? What about the outdoor shower?
Is it only the hot that doesnt flow well at every tap?

Any check valves are going to be installed right within the inlet/outlet and/or bypass valves all mounted right along the back of the water heater plumbing. Access is very easy without pulling the entire heater. Take a picture of the back of the water heater that is "wide" enough to see the plumbing routes and post it - I'm sure we can guide you further.

[koresample]

I put that we have a 4080dp in the previous post...what else are you loooking for ti id the coach? To better clarify, low hw pressure on all faucets including outside shower. Havent taken pictures yet but will. Looked again this morning and can't see the back of the heater when I open the compartment for the water ans sewer connections. Where else woukd I access it?

[Qwert66]

Open up the bay door just to the left of the one with the outside shower, and look in directly to the right is the water heater. You will see the 3 valves used to bypass the heater to winterize. On ours we can also see the back of the heater where the hot water comes out through the bottom.

We run straight vinegar thru our lines (from the winterizing valve) and unheated water heater, let it sit for 12-16hrs and then flush with fresh water to minimize build up in the system in addition to flushing the heater thru the drain line.

We have the same coach so will try to help.

[94-Newmar]

Originally Posted by koresample

I put that we have a 4080dp in the previous post...what else are you loooking for ti id the coach?

Not for this post, but it certainly helps in case you forget to post your model.

Originally Posted by koresample

To better clarify, low hw pressure on all faucets including outside shower. Havent taken pictures yet but will. Looked again this morning and can't see the back of the heater when I open the compartment for the water ans sewer connections. Where else woukd I access it?

Qwert66 has provided the location for you since he has the exact same coach. However, if yours does incorporate 3 valves to bypass the hot water heater, then there are no one-way check valves in the system. Verify this and let us know.

[koresample]

I dont see it but I hope the picture attached...thanks for helping me locate the valves...looks like a bypass set up but I think something is not right with the way they look based on what I have read? Should the bottom one be open completely and the middle one closed?

[Mr_D]

Originally Posted by koresample

Should the bottom one be open completely and the middle one closed?

Yep, exactly right for normal use.

[94-Newmar]

IF your valves are 1/4 turn valves, then here is a diagram you can use. Based upon your picture the lower valve does not appear to be open all the way, and actual bypass valve (middle) appears to be open - incorrect for normal operation.

Operate the valves a few times and recheck the hot water flow at the sinks. I would also try setting the valves into bypass (winter) and see if your flow changes any.

[koresample]

Thanks to all! We have the coach parked for the next few weeks in storage until we can get out again but I will try as suggested and report back. Thanks again

[koresample]

moved the taps to the correct position and had lots of water pressure but no hot water (on electric). I switched over to gas and voila....lots of hot water and great pressure.

Bigger problem is that on electric now I have no hot water. I have a switch on the water heater as well as one in the coach. When i went to turn the switch on the heater to off, it would not go to the off position, it is like it is frozen. Problem with the switch or something with the electric portion of the heater?

["007"]

If you can not turn off switch with the red led may need the new switch.
The element may be burned out if someone turned on switch with no water in tank and element burned out and also heated up your switch so it melted interior of switch.
Need to drop panel to look at wiring and replace switch.
May want to pull the one on Suburban WH also and check wiring to new element.
May find the parts you need here.
In my signature below are three links to info related to your Newmar.

[koresample]

Originally Posted by "007"

If you can not turn off switch with the red led may need the new switch.
The element may be burned out if someone turned on switch with no water in tank and element burned out and also heated up your switch so it melted interior of switch.
Need to drop panel to look at wiring and replace switch.
May want to pull the one on Suburban WH also and check wiring to new element.

It's actually the switch directly on the water heater. There are two inside; one is the DSI (with the red LED which fires it for gas), the other is a regular AC light switch which I am assuming is another way to turn the AC on and off from inside without having to go outside. The one on the heater itself was really hard to turn on and off since we purchased it (7 months ago) but this weekend you could not click it off at all. Ideas?

["007"]

I understand what your saying the element may need the replacing along with the switch just hope the wiring isn't in bad shape to reuse.

[koresample]

Thats what I was kind of thinking. I need to take it in to the dealer in the spring to get the fridge, furnace and other units checked over anyways so will do this then as it runs fine on propane right now. Any idea what the element etc is worth approx to get replaced?