Macerator Installation

[kamakalama]

I'm installing a macerator system and need to mount the pump.

I was going to screw it down to the floor of the wet bay with 1/4" x 1 1/2" lag screws.

Does anyone know if there are any pipes or conduits running under the wet bay between the plastic housing insert and the bottom sheet metal pan?

["007"]

Most of the piping is in insulation between your floors the plastic floor may just be to floor of metal box.

[wa8yxm]

If you bolt it to the BOTTOM of the wet bay you should not have anything below the floor save air.

Or you can do what I do.. i use a portable macerator when I need one (IE: Where I'm at now).

[FLSteve]

Originally Posted by kamakalama

Does anyone know if there are any pipes or conduits running under the wet bay between the plastic housing insert and the bottom sheet metal pan?

kamakalama ... from what I have seen on mine, I think you should be just fine doing this.

Steve

[Terry43]

Originally Posted by kamakalama

I'm installing a macerator system and need to mount the pump.

I was going to screw it down to the floor of the wet bay with 1/4" x 1 1/2" lag screws.

Does anyone know if there are any pipes or conduits running under the wet bay between the plastic housing insert and the bottom sheet metal pan?

I don't think you will have any problems installing on wet bay floor. I installed one in that same location; I did not use lag bolts. I just used some stainless steel screws; you will be mounting to metal so no need for lag bolts. Personally I only use it when I have to; takes to long to flush and empty.
Good Luck!

[spinn]

As your installing the macerator consider purchasing a "hair" screen for your shower. When I first tried to use the macerator on the used coach we purchased i could not get it push even water through it. After a less than pleasant disassembly I found the inlet just jammed with hair. The hair formed a wonderful sieve keeping anything from getting through!

S

[Dr4Film]

Many if not all macerator owners have had to deal with a clogged hair trap in their macerator at one time or another. Not a pleasant job.

That's the only reason I don't have one YET.

I still like the 3 inch Whoosh effect.

Dr4Film ----- Richard

[kamakalama]

Macerator pump was mounted today. No sparks or smoke were encountered.

The macerator will be handy for a couple of places we stay at. Otherwise the 3" is fine.

At Monterey, CA fairgrounds, the sewer pipe is 20 ft away uphill. At Chula Vista RV, the spaces were designed as back-in. If you park front-in, you get a nice view of San Diego Bay out the windshield but the utilities are on the wrong side.

[FLSteve]

Originally Posted by kamakalama

Macerator pump was mounted today.

kamakalama ... can you post a picture when you have time?

Steve

[JVR]

I have a macerator and while it takes quite a while to empty the tanks, after rinsing with grey and fresh water, I cap it and I'm not dealing with a nasty hose which is corrugated to capture much of what comes through.
I'm sold wouldn't have it any other way

[kamakalama]

Wrapped up the Clean Dump CDPU macerator installation yesterday. A few photos are located here

The coach is winterized right now so no chance to test.

Installation is pretty simple but low temps make working with hoses difficult.

A few observations...

- A right angle connector at the waste manifold makes discharge hose connection easier. The kit comes with a 45 deg. connector but I used a 90 and the 45 that makes up the grey water bypass. If the raw water bypass was a 90 rather than 45 it would have been optimum. It will fall apart soon anyway (see below)

- The kit comes with 20 ft. of 10ga. duplex wire but I found a good power source 3 feet away in the next compartment at the 12 volt disconnect solenoid. The instructions tell you to connect directly to the battery but that requires a penetration to the sealed battery compartment, service loop for the battery tray movement, etc. Besides, closer is usually better when it comes to 12 volt wiring.

- I used #10 screws/washers to mount the pump to the wet bay floor. A short length of high quality 3" hose connects the pump to the waste manifold connectors.

- The Clean Dump raw water bypass is a total POS. I should have returned it. It consists of a standard 45 deg. sewer connector drilled/tapped for a threaded pipe elbow, a ball valve, and a hose tee. The plastic tubing is the wrong diameter stretched to fit, unreinforced, and kinks easily. All the hose clamps except one are the crimp style and impossible to remove. (I ground them off). The hose connector threaded into the sewer connector has only a single thread into the cheap plastic wall of the connector. Lacking an immediate alternative, I installed it anyway replacing all the hoses with ones that fit while using standard clamps. I expect it to fail early on and will carry spares to remove it.

- The 1" dia. , 20 ft. discharge hose is of good quality but a little stiff and unwieldly. The sewer connector on the end flops around as the hose is deployed and could damage anything it hits (like the side of the coach) if not managed. You need to heat the hose with a heat gun to push it onto the pump discharge fitting. There is enough room in the wet bay to store it (good thing) but not the 10 ft extension.

- All the necessary electrical parts are included with the CDPU kit.

Overall, the CDPU kit is an OK value at $275 (Amazon). There are a lot of ways it could be improved but the cost would rise accordingly.