Hello to All
I am doing some tracking down of a engine starting issue and looking for some answers on acouple areas. I have been doing Alot of reading and researching many platforms.
I have a 1994 Dutchstar,,trying to identify the electrical parts to the Right of the transfer switch box.mostly the two relay looking units that are round.if anyone would have a wiring diagram of this area,would help me alot.
Also looking for someone that might be able to tell me what the 12v fuses go to.
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It is a occasional issue,I can turn the key sometimes and nothing lights up on the dash and won't crack.If I just leave the key in the On position,it will decide when,,but dash warning lights turn on and it cracks fine and starts right up.
Lately it has thrown a new twist into it.once it is running,the alternator gage will drop way down and in will barely idle,and then die.
Sometimes when the volt gage drops way down,it will bounce around abit and then sit at the 13+ volts area and run fine again.
There were times it wouldn't do it for days..
Thanks also for the other info,I will be reviewing all of it in the morning...
There should be a cover for the fuse box that would have all the different 12 volt fuses identified. If the cover is gone it would be difficult but not impossible to pull them one at a time to see what stops working. It wouldn’t be worth it to me. I’d just go on the assumption of the fuse isn’t burnt the circuit is good. Then if one does burn out, start marking them.
Hi Ben,thanks for chiming in on this,,when you say disconnect grid heater,,would i just connect the battery cables there then and see if issue changes??
I think you're headed in the right direction with cleaning the grounds. I have seen corroded grounds cause the same symptoms. Good luck with the troubleshooting
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2018 Thor Freedom Elite 24
on 2016 Sprinter Chassis
Hi Ben,thanks for chiming in on this,,when you say disconnect grid heater,,would i just connect the battery cables there then and see if issue changes??
I have the 5.9l cummins
Yes, you could disconnect the battery cable, or the control wire at the relay that controls the grid heater. The grid heater on some cummins can fail, allowing a bolt to go through the engine, destroying the engine in cases, I'd check if that applies to yours, and remove the whole thing if it does. You only need the heater for cold starts, and many RV's never start in the cold anyway. I have a flamestart that has never worked, but it's there if I'm ever stuck in the arctic.
I'd try to find the voltage issue when you turn the key and none of the dash lights up. The dash ground busses were notoriously bad in general for class A's, that would be the first place to check, along with the ignition switch and ignition relay (find it by turning the key to run and tracking the noise if you don't have a diagram). If the ground was bad at the battery, the starter would not typically work great on and off. It would be slow, or crank for a split second and then the dash would go dark, but anything's possible.
These old beasts are so complicated that the "trying something" that works in cars doesn't work so great. Messing with stuff leads to as many new problems as problems it fixes
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