Malfunction indicator light on with Check engine indicator flashing

[wagonmaster2]

Looked up the engine codes this afternoon then called FL. Response was that it was a fuel problem and probably changing the filter would take care of it. Could either have it done, do it myself here in the campground, or just wait till I got home to change it. Since it was actually running alright the 220 mile trip home should be okay according to FL.

Still pondering about doing it here in the campground if I can get a small container of fresh diesel fluid to fill the filter with before installing it. Drained a small amount of fluid out of the fluid/water filter and there was definitely something wrong in what I drained so the filter is contaminated. Now just trying to figure out which of the last 2 or 3 stations I filled up in the last month coming home from one trip and coming on this short trip.

[R.Wold]

well at least its something simple and inexpensive. Beats the alternative

[wagonmaster2]

Amen to that. At least I can enjoy the rest of the week visiting with relatives instead of having sleepless nights worrying about what will happen next, and how do I get home.

[R.Wold]

and now you can access DTCs!

[wagonmaster2]

Originally Posted by R.Wold

and now you can access DTCs!

Yes, learned something I never knew. Now big question is, after changing both filters and finding black sludge in the bottom of the glass bowl of the fuel/water filter do I add any Power Service Bio Kleen and/or Power Service Clear Diesel (which I bought both just in case) to the tank before leaving on the 240 mile drive home and risk maybe getting a really plugged filter, or drive home as is and add the PS at home. Parts clerk at Truck Pro where I bought the Bio said it was really strong and would clean everything out of the tank if using the Shock treatment, and would just end up in the filter. Sure don't want to be changing filters out on the side of the Interstate if I can help it. Wasn't exactly a fun task here in the campground.



Usually since the coach sets in my back yard during the winter I have always added the Maintenance dosage of biocide and a dose of Diesel Stabil, but have never added the shock treatment of biocide (which is about 3 times as much biocide).


No way of knowing how long it took for that sludge to get in the bowl of the filter since we filled up 5 times on a trip in September and once so far on this short trip. If it all came on this trip then my trip back home the same way may be a little precarious so really nervous about adding any cleaner to be working during that time. Yet I feel like something would help.

[R.Wold]

I’d say drive home as is. I wouldn't add anything before the trip, travel with an extra set of filters, and when you get it home drain and clean the tank. I think you’re better off that way than trying to run all the muck through the fuel system.

We used to have this problem with sail boats that would spend most of their time in calm waters. Take them off shore in some heavier seas than normal, and shake up a the tanks a bit, and you clog fuel filters. Theres a process for “polishing diesel” on boats because of this.I think it also applies to coaches that spend time sitting for extended periods.

[wagonmaster2]

Originally Posted by R.Wold

I’d say drive home as is. I wouldn't add anything before the trip, travel with an extra set of filters, and when you get it home drain and clean the tank. I think you’re better off that way than trying to run all the muck through the fuel system.

We used to have this problem with sail boats that would spend most of their time in calm waters. Take them off shore in some heavier seas than normal, and shake up a the tanks a bit, and you clog fuel filters. Theres a process for “polishing diesel” on boats because of this.I think it also applies to coaches that spend time sitting for extended periods.

Thank you for that. Really thought I should go home as is, but since I've never had this experience I wasn't that confident in such a decision.
What is the process that "polishing diesel" goes thru? Is this in the tank or after the diesel has been drained from the tank? Does it take a special shop to do this?

Have seen it referred to before but had no idea what they were talking about.
Have 2 sets of extra filters on board. Hope I don't have to use them.


Bad problem is do I fill up on way home at the same easy in/easy out truck stop that I did coming here and have used several times on this drive to visit relatives in the past but wondering if that's where I got the gunk. Most other stations along the way are either just local stations or have a steep rise drive way getting in, should have been on other side of highway.

Don't need anymore trips like the way this one is going, but thank goodness for the Forum. And probably gonna get expensive before finished and done.

[Dutch Star Don]

I think you're putting the cart before the horse. The amount of sludge you found wasn't enough to stop the coach, even though you threw a code. Now with new filters, why not add the biocide and drive home. Not only will the biocide be working to correct the fuel, you'll use quite a bit of fuel on the way home. You can even let the genny run to burn fuel.

You're creating an issue that you're not sure you have. Once home, drain some fuel out of the primary drain bowl outlet and see what it looks like. It may be pristine. If so, fill the tank with fresh fuel.

You said before the coach sat for over a year. A little bit of water in the primary filter, could have turned to algae after all that time, and is the only issue.

[wagonmaster2]

Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don

I think you're putting the cart before the horse. The amount of sludge you found wasn't enough to stop the coach, even though you threw a code. Now with new filters, why not add the biocide and drive home. Not only will the biocide be working to correct the fuel, you'll use quite a bit of fuel on the way home. You can even let the genny run to burn fuel.

You're creating an issue that you're not sure you have. Once home, drain some fuel out of the primary drain bowl outlet and see what it looks like. It may be pristine. If so, fill the tank with fresh fuel.

You said before the coach sat for over a year. A little bit of water in the primary filter, could have turned to algae after all that time, and is the only issue.

The bottle of biocide says for Maintenance use 1 oz / 55 gal. and for Shock treatment use 1 oz/20 gal.
Wouldn't know how much to use to do any good but not over do it. Way over my head here.

[Dutch Star Don]

Originally Posted by wagonmaster2

The bottle of biocide says for Maintenance use 1 oz / 55 gal. and for Shock treatment use 1 oz/20 gal.
Wouldn't know how much to use to do any good but not over do it. Way over my head here.

Your coach has a 100 gallon tank with a usable 90 gallons or so. Put in five ounces of the shock treatment. When you get home, refill the tank and put in two ounces of the maintenance treatment.

[wagonmaster2]

Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don

Your coach has a 100 gallon tank with a usable 90 gallons or so. Put in five ounces of the shock treatment. When you get home, refill the tank and put in two ounces of the maintenance treatment.

Gotcha. Thank you.

[wagonmaster2]

After replacing both filters and starting the engine several times here in the campground the Malfunction light is still staying on.
Is there any way the RV owner can turn this light off and also clear the codes?

[Dutch Star Don]

Originally Posted by wagonmaster2

After replacing both filters and starting the engine several times here in the campground the Malfunction light is still staying on.
Is there any way the RV owner can turn this light off and also clear the codes?

They will clear after 4-5 starts and running the coach for at least 5 minutes after each start. If the problem still exists, the lights will stay on. If the problem is resolved, they will go off after running it as described above.

The only other way is to have a shop clear the codes.

[wagonmaster2]

Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don

They will clear after 4-5 starts and running the coach for at least 5 minutes after each start. If the problem still exists, the lights will stay on. If the problem is resolved, they will go off after running it as described above.

The only other way is to have a shop clear the codes.

Starting but not letting it run the 5 min, Thank you. May survive this yet.