Modifying Wet Bay Floor for Turbo Sanicon ?

[StuartS]

I want veto replace my original Sanicon with Turbo 600S....
The 600 will sit about 3 inches too high. The floor of the wet bay seems to me hollow & it appears to be about a 3" hollow area between the wet bay plastic floor & the bottom pan of the coach.

Has anyone cut the floor to lower a Sanicon 600S Turbo so it has good gravity flow?


It doesn't look like it would be hard to retrofit some kind of heavy plastic tub. It would be where the current round drain hatch is now & I would put a larger screw hatch to accommodate the Turbo 600 head. There is nothing in the way either in the wet bay or under the coach that would be in the area of where I would be putting this "tub". Only needs to be about 16" wide x 12" & about 3" deep.

If it is made of heavy plastic & undercoated, do you see any problem with this.

[Dutch Star Don]

Before you do that, there is another way to mount it and use it, which doesn't require cutting a hole and allows you to use the notch in the door frame as designed.

I added a bayonet mount to the front of the SaniCon and direct connected the unit, allowing the the end of the unit to rest on the door frame. No other attachment is needed, as the unit is very smooth. When attached with a bayonet mount, the discharge hole faces the front of the coach. I used a 1.5" pvc pipe to turn the discharge hole toward the rear of the coach, using the pvc and a rubber radiator hose for an elbow. I then attached the SaniCon hose to the end of the pvc, near the notch in the door frame.

The notch has a big chunk of rubber insulation, which I removed and then replaced with a small edge piece to protect the hose. By doing this, I can place the water hose in the groove first and then SaniCon hose. You can close the bay door with both in the notch. A LOT easier than running the hose through the floor every time. When not in use, I place a racquetball in the notch to seal the hole.

In the photos, you can see the rubber edging I used along the top of the fiberglass liner and the edge of the notch.

[StuartS]

DS Dan...
It looks like you have to put it on & off... Also looks like you cannot close the wet bay door?

I have the original Sanicon 7 I want to fix mount a Turbo & be done with it.
I know most just have the turbo a little higher & don't worry about it but I want to figure out how to mount it at least the depth of the wet bay floor to coach undercoated sheeting.

If you look at the 8" screw drain, it is about 3" deep. That is the same depth I am looking for.

[Dutch Star Don]

Originally Posted by StuartS

DS Dan...
It looks like you have to put it on & off... Also looks like you cannot close the wet bay door?

I have the original Sanicon 7 I want to fix mount a Turbo & be done with it.
I know most just have the turbo a little higher & don't worry about it but I want to figure out how to mount it at least the depth of the wet bay floor to coach undercoated sheeting.

If you look at the 8" screw drain, it is about 3" deep. That is the same depth I am looking for.

No, mine stays attached. It's an inch inside the door. It's resting on the inner bay floor, not the door frame. What I like about my setup, you don't have to remove the floor panel and fish the hose through every time. I just pull out both hoses, slide them into the notch and close the bay door.

[redbaron73]

I used DS Don's method, but slightly modified.

I did not use a bayonet. Instead I used a heat gun to make the rubber more pliable, and skipped it over the tabs on the sewer outlet. I then secured it with a worm gear clamp. This allowed for even lower position of the sanicon.

I also added another exit hole in the bay floor to the left, as this allowed direct flow without any additional piping. This is greatly simplified from my prior 3 installs, and IMHO the best option when a 700 can't fit.

Only downside is removal is not simple.

This picture shows the install with the wet bay torn apart. Not necessary to tear it apart, but I was adding additional features and cleaning up plumbing issues

[StuartS]

DSDan & redbaron73 ...

Did you purchase the 400s, 500s or the 600s unit?
It looks like they are all the same unit but with different attaching methods.
I would also want to have a clear window somewhere before the Sanicon unit.

[lenny-shawna]

Originally Posted by redbaron73

I used DS Don's method, but slightly modified.

I did not use a bayonet. Instead I used a heat gun to make the rubber more pliable, and skipped it over the tabs on the sewer outlet. I then secured it with a worm gear clamp. This allowed for even lower position of the sanicon.

I also added another exit hole in the bay floor to the left, as this allowed direct flow without any additional piping. This is greatly simplified from my prior 3 installs, and IMHO the best option when a 700 can't fit.

Only downside is removal is not simple.

This picture shows the install with the wet bay torn apart. Not necessary to tear it apart, but I was adding additional features and cleaning up plumbing issues
Attachment 305824Attachment 305825

Hello,
How do you keep mice and rate from climbing up the hose and getting into your bay, do you seal it?

[lenny-shawna]

Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don

Before you do that, there is another way to mount it and use it, which doesn't require cutting a hole and allows you to use the notch in the door frame as designed.

I added a bayonet mount to the front of the SaniCon and direct connected the unit, allowing the the end of the unit to rest on the door frame. No other attachment is needed, as the unit is very smooth. When attached with a bayonet mount, the discharge hole faces the front of the coach. I used a 1.5" pvc pipe to turn the discharge hole toward the rear of the coach, using the pvc and a rubber radiator hose for an elbow. I then attached the SaniCon hose to the end of the pvc, near the notch in the door frame.

The notch has a big chunk of rubber insulation, which I removed and then replaced with a small edge piece to protect the hose. By doing this, I can place the water hose in the groove first and then SaniCon hose. You can close the bay door with both in the notch. A LOT easier than running the hose through the floor every time. When not in use, I place a racquetball in the notch to seal the hole.

In the photos, you can see the rubber edging I used along the top of the fiberglass liner and the edge of the notch.

Attachment 305745

Attachment 305746

Attachment 305747

Attachment 305748

Hi Don,
Can you close the bay door with both the sani-con and fresh water hoses attached?

[redbaron73]

Originally Posted by lenny-shawna

Hello,
How do you keep mice and rate from climbing up the hose and getting into your bay, do you seal it?

I use a cover to seal it


https://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/201...ml#post4734659

[redbaron73]

Originally Posted by StuartS

DSDan & redbaron73 ...

Did you purchase the 400s, 500s or the 600s unit?
It looks like they are all the same unit but with different attaching methods.
I would also want to have a clear window somewhere before the Sanicon unit.

in 2013, I had the 400s. It was not as flexible for installation due to bayonets. Installing the 400s the way DSDon & I have done now would not allow for the proper exit angle.


I now have the 600s, but the 500s is all you need. The 600s includes exit pipe and angle bayonet which I am not using.

[Dutch Star Don]

First, I used the SaniCon unit that Newmar supplied with the coach, I'm not sure if it's the 600 or 700.

I removed the rubber insert from the notch in the door frame, as it made it too tight for the water and sewer hoses. With the rubber removed and just a rubber lip added to just the edge, the hoses are protected and both fit, even with the sleeve on the SaniCon hose. I place the water hose in the notch first, in the back corner, and then the SaniCon hose. I've been doing it this way for two years.

[StuartS]

The local RV parts house (State Trailer RV Supplies) has both the 400 & 500 in stock along with a 3" bayonet extension that they will let me try fitting it on my coach. Just have to make sure there is no grey water in my discharge. We'll just plug it up with rags & fit their new parts up.

I'm hoping the 400S which is the bayonet mount unit will fit with the 3" extension or may work with no extension & still have good access to the black & gray handles.