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Old 03-15-2020, 08:28 PM   #267
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Thanx.

Meames1, I am enjoying your rebuild thread as well. Excellent job. Nice workmanship. Everything is square and the welds look good too.
I was itching to get the sandblaster out to help you clean up the front end. But I see you already got it painted

JMcG, Thanx much. Looking forward to meeting you at a campground some day!

Currently working on TPMS user interfaces. A standard SAE alert icon for issues that is on the main dash (less stuff is more safe), and a detailed per wheel in position view on TPMS specific scene (for RV and Toad / Trailer). And a few buttons to learn a new sensor on the Setup scene.
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Old 05-10-2020, 08:18 PM   #268
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With Spring around the corner and the premise that Covid travel restrictions will open soon, I decided to springize the RV.

Open the door and noticed a definite mildew odor. Poked around and found the carpet wet. Further research and the ceiling was also wet and heavy. I popped out an audio speaker and it was soaked. Ah yes, a project.

Seems like the A/C unit has been leaking water into the ceiling. No way was the ceiling going to dry out on it's own even if the leak was fixed. So, decision made to remove the ceiling and figure out just how bad things have gotten.

The project was also going to include ripping out the old (and now wet) carpet and replace with hardwood. So, the demo begins! I removed the front seats (gees are these things heavy, especially the pass side with the motorized foot lift) and ripped out the carpet front to back. Followed that by removing the padding. Then the fun work of removing all the staples and tack strips. And then removing the motorized bunk bed, the side molding, the window treatments, the LED rope lights, the fluorescent and LED light fixtures. Followed by a quick vacuum. All in a days work.

I also have a few tiles on a corner that were cracked. A quick couple of passes with a right angle grinder with an abrasive masonry wheel cleaned up and removed the bad pieces (see pic). I put a shop vac hose at the tail end of the grinding wheel to minimize the dust. I did get the make / model of the tiles from Newmar Parts Dept, but no luck so far in finding any stock anywhere on the Internet. Newmar hasn't had them for years. So I might need to get creative.

I decided to start removing the ceiling from the source - underneath the front A/C. Step 1 was to measure and document where all the speaker / and AC vents were so they could be replaced in the exact same spots. It wasn't obvious on how to remove the ceiling. I did find a Newmar article but it wasn't specific on how the T molding held up the edges of the panel. I tugged and tugged but no budge. So, I cut the ends about 3/4" shy of the wall using a utility knife and the reciprocating saw, flexed the soaked panel until it fell away (see pic). I wasn't too concerned about hurting the panel but did keep it intact for at least measurements. Not quite sure yet on trying to reuse the panels, or just the vinyl, or do something new for the ceiling replacement.

Yikes, it was really wet up there. So glad I decided to rip it apart. Some black mold had already started growing. Once the first panel was out, it became more clear that the T molding does just pull down. But it required quite a bit of force to get the first bit of the molding to pull away from it's base. The base is glued to the aluminum roof rafter bottoms.

Once the T molding was removed, the next panel was easier to remove. Just get the ends, and gave the panel a yank to break the glue joints and it popped off. Now that the panels were down, I removed all the soaked fiberglass insulation and shop vac'd as much of the moisture off as possible.
I also used a reciprocating saw to deglue the bottom of the rafters. This went very easy. It would have been a real pain to use a knife. The saw went thru it like butter.

Ok, next step - once I had removed the carpet, I realized that the drivers floor was really decayed and soaked. From the window drain box leaking out a crack over the years (since fixed with silicone). So, I marked it and used a battery 6 1/2" circular saw and cut the section out. I was careful to set the blade height just shy of the bottom of the board as I wasn't sure what was below it. Looking from the wheel well, there was at least sheet metal on the bottom. I used the reciprocating saw to finish the cuts and make the corners square. I then put some screws in and used a Wonder Bar to pull on the screws to lift the panel, levering against a screwdriver handle (see pic). Once the panel was removed, I saw there is a rubber membrane under the wood floor. So good I was careful not to cut too deep as the membrane was intact.

BTW, the yellow wires are for my Foot operated Jake Brake control I added. There is also a relay in the wire bundle for it.

Tomorrow I will make the floor patch and start planning the flooring layout while the ceiling drys out now that it's opened up. I will be running some additional wires for 360 cameras, the motorized bunk bed, modernize the lighting, etc. with everything opened up as well. The good news is it's already starting to dry up and smell better. Also glad Newmar's are made with aluminum trusses as they are fine.

I bought some engineered wood flooring locally from Craigslist that will look good. I noticed that the tile height is around 3/4". There might be enough space for in floor heat...will research more tomorrow.
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Old 05-11-2020, 06:29 AM   #269
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I recently replaced all of my carpeting with hand scraped engineered hardwood flooring. With the hand scraped, you can easily repair any nicks, etc. and it blends in. We glued the flooring down. One thing I learned in doing this is that because of the confined space, it is much easier to back butter each piece rather than spread the glue across the floor.
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Old 05-11-2020, 11:51 AM   #270
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Great job so far. That's what I like, just tear into and get it done. At least now your cable runs for all the networking will be easier.
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Old 05-11-2020, 08:20 PM   #271
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Today's progress:
Replaced the rotted floor section. I used a router to half lap the patch over the old floor to give the join lots of strength.
It took hours to get this to fit. Getting it into the sidewall steel groove, slots for fasteners and for the drain etc. Used Construction adhesive to affix and seal the gaps.

Also cleaned up the ceiling. All insulation removed, and decided I have to replace the panels. They are just too wet and moldy. So, cleaned up the ends to get them ready for a 4x8 panel replacements. All is drying out nicely being so open. Tomorrow I'll hit everything with some mold killer to wack the remaining microbes.

Looking at the floor heat serious. Looks like the stack will work. The material is very cool. 12 or 24 volt AC or DC. They get warm but not hot. The material itself raises resistance as they get hot which then keeps the material temperate. So, no problem putting them under the engineered wood. I will embed a floor heat sensor and have my automation system monitor the temp and turn the transformer on / off. The transformer will be 110 volt. Because I can get the heat strips for 12 volt...might be able to run them off of battery. Need to make some energy calcs. Probably won't last too long without a recharge so likely not worth the wiring effort.

Putting a purchase list to get new material to start putting this back together.
Before doing that, it is supposed to warm up here after tomorrow so I'll remove the AC unit and seal that all up. That piece of plywood is under the AC unit and what the screws adhere to. It's too difficult to remove it as it is screwed to the top of the rafters and THEN the fiberglass top is applied at Newmar. So, since it is drying out, I'll be doubling it by glue laminating some marine ply to it's underside which will give the AC screws something to bite into.
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Old 05-12-2020, 04:00 AM   #272
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Wow, what an undertaking Dave. Can you take a closer pic of the tracks you mentioned the panels sit in and the T molding please? Are you going to buy the panels from Newmar?
Are you removing the entire ceiling or just up front? Good time to check out all roof penetrations, like TV antenna, search light, CB, etc.
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Old 05-12-2020, 08:39 AM   #273
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Quote:
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Wow, what an undertaking Dave. Can you take a closer pic of the tracks you mentioned the panels sit in and the T molding please? Are you going to buy the panels from Newmar?
Are you removing the entire ceiling or just up front? Good time to check out all roof penetrations, like TV antenna, search light, CB, etc.
I can take a pic later. Haven't gotten outside yet today.
But, to describe, the visible T just has a rib that has some barbs on it. This rib then gets pushed into the "base" that is also a T shape. There are multiple ribs on the base. The visible T rib presses into the base ribs which grabs the barbs to keep it well inserted. The panel is then sandwiched between the T's which holds the panel in place.

You can see the "base T" glued to the aluminum roof truss and you can see the multiple ribs in the above post pic.

Yes, I will be upgrading some of the roof antenna wires while it's all opened up.

Not sure yet on what finish treatment I will use. I can try to take the vinyl off the old panels but not optimistic on how well that will workout. I could see if Newmar still has the vinyl but it probably won't color match anyway due to exposure of the old. Note I haven't removed (yet) the complete ceiling. I am just working on the front of the kitchen. The RV points downhill a bit in it's parking spot, so the water never went rear of the A/C unit.

So, debating to try to reuse, to match or to completely change the look of the ceiling. I will first experiment on reuse as that would be the easy path (if that works out).

Any ideas / opinions on headliner treatment?

I am considering gluing some pink board to the roof interior. The loose fiberglass insulation does nothing to make the roof more rigid. The pink board is also higher R value. And I will use pink board instead of the white cheap insulation board Newmar uses as it's stronger, and higher R value. The rafter cavity will still be loose fiberglass insulation as that's where all the wires are run and it will help fill up any voids the pink foam won't fill (without spray foam). Home Depot, here I come to wait on the Covid lineup.
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Old 05-12-2020, 05:08 PM   #274
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Those of us who have been following this intrepid repairman are really bummed.
But, Dav L, if anyone can persevere, you can.
As for ceiling ideas...many high end MHs don’t have a uniform ceiling—some are coved, some have mirrors, you get the idea. You don’t have to match the rest of the ceiling—as tricky, ingenious and skilled as you are, you could fabricate something that would set your coach apart from any other.
We’re all rooting for you.
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Old 05-12-2020, 07:31 PM   #275
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Quote:
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Those of us who have been following this intrepid repairman are really bummed.
But, Dav L, if anyone can persevere, you can.
As for ceiling ideas...many high end MHs don’t have a uniform ceiling—some are coved, some have mirrors, you get the idea. You don’t have to match the rest of the ceiling—as tricky, ingenious and skilled as you are, you could fabricate something that would set your coach apart from any other.
We’re all rooting for you.
Thanx Harry Joe. I think you are putting some pressure on me to be creative....

Honestly, I would love to do that. I just have not been able to justify putting in the Extra Credit time it takes to go beyond normal. If I knew we would use the rig three times a year, I would get motivated. But right now it is starting to look like I will solo a few trips :(

My mom recently passed of Covid complications. So the fam does need to go back to NJ to visit rest of my fam and friends. I was thinking that would be a good opportunity to take a trip. My family is not as interested in taking the RV. We'll see.

My daughter's 16th birthday today so we spent much of the day getting her surprise B'day drive by celebration organized. I did get a chance to stop by Home Depot and purchased 1.5" pink insulation board for the roof liner (and foam adhesive) and two sheets of 1/2" board for the ceiling liner and a roll of unfaced 2x4 fiberglass bats to fill the middle of the rafters and any loose spots. If nothing else, the repair area will be better insulated and rigid than it was from Newmar.

I took a quick look (mostly for measurements) of the old panels. They are drying out and warping / delaminating sitting unsecured. If they delammed clean from the vinyl, then that would set the stage for vinyl reuse. But it doesn't so far look good. I'll make some decisions tomorrow while glueing the roof liner boards up.

What would be cool is for my son's motorized bunk bed to go flush into the ceiling...but that would require modding the trusses which would loose a lot of the roof strength, or dropping the ceiling height overall...so that's probably off the list.

Thanx for the positives. They help to energize the project.
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Old 05-12-2020, 09:48 PM   #276
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Hey Dav, still watching here too! It's interesting isn't it when you get into the "guts" of something. I've learned quite a bit about things by tearing it apart. Sometimes it was necessary, as in your case.....and other times out of curiosity.
Anyway, in my coach I'm contemplating getting a little artistic with the ceiling and some subtle lighting. Specifically, by hiding the boring (to me) straight across seams every 4 feet. I've liked others I've seen which had depth (if you will), and more random contoured lines. Not too "busy", but unique.
I'll let you know if and when I get around to it. Till then, best luck and keep up the good work.
Sincere condolences for your loss too.
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Old 05-13-2020, 05:06 AM   #277
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Sorry to hear about your mom Dave. Prayers sent.


I did see the tracks on the side of the adjoining ceiling board (I think). The tracks almost sound like the flooring tracks used to hold feature strips.
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Old 05-13-2020, 05:58 AM   #278
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Dave

Maybe you could detach the vinyl further by soaking the areas where it remains attached. Seems like if you could reuse it would be easiest.
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Old 05-13-2020, 10:17 AM   #279
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What a lucky coach! Its amazing how much time and effort you've put into that Mountain Aire over the short time owning it. if it wasn't for you, she'd slowly be picked apart back in Nevada.
Im sure you'll come up with something better than once was. (better speaker placement, Led recessed lighting....fold down tv) there's not much left you haven't touched on that coach.
Good Luck!! look forward to your progress
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Old 05-13-2020, 10:47 PM   #280
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Yesterday sprayed some "30 second cleaner" on the interior of the roof to kill the last remaining mold bits. Aired it out to rid the bleach smell today.

I removed the AC unit to address the root cause. Removed the ducting around the AC to repair the bolt holes. You can see from the pic how I glued some plywood to give the bolts something to bite into again.

Cleaned it all up and put the duct boards back in. Used some HVAC metal tape to reseal it. Resealed the AC plenum from up top. Doubled up the gasket material around the AC base and used a generous amount of silicone around the bolts and bolt tops and screwed it all back down again with new galvanized lag bolts.

It's supposed to start raining tomorrow. I'll give it an inspection before putting rest together if the leak is now fixed.

Next step is to put the insulation on the roof interior. Then rewire. I'll put four 10AWG stranded wires up there for future solar panels.

Yeah, putting another lap of effort into the rig. This wasn't related to the original accident damage. All that repair hasn't been a problem since fixed.
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