Community Forums

dgapilot · 09-28-2020, 08:41 AM

Dave, Inspired by your efforts, yesterday I started pulling the times in my coach. Got most of them out, just what is under the slide left to go.

The previous owner put new batteries in and obviously has something wired incorrectly. Seems the house is connected to the chassis batteries and the BIRD isn't charging them. I need to figure that out in the future, but the chassis batteries were down even though the coach was plugged in. With low volts, I couldn't bring the slide in, so put those batteries on the charger overnight. Hopefully I can get out there today and put a board on top and bring the slide in and tilt it to get the rest of the tile up.

I did find an area by the dinette and refrigerator where the floor and sub floor is rotted. After I get the luan up, I'll be able to see the extent of the damage, and try and track down the leaks. I suspect it is around the refrigerator vent. There were some cracks along that portion of the roof. I patched it with eternabond, but suspect I'll need to do some more with the Dicor.

Thanks for the tip on using an air hammer! That worked great. I'll also use your idea of routing a half lap joint for filling in the new sub floor.

David

Dav L · 09-28-2020, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dgapilot

Dave, Inspired by your efforts, yesterday I started pulling the times in my coach. Got most of them out, just what is under the slide left to go.
...

David

Couple of tips:

You can access most of the under slide tiles when the slide is Out and tipped. To do that, I moved the slide all the way out, put a 2x4 against the body ontop of the slide. I put another 2x4 against the slide flange. I then measured the gap between the two. I cut three 2x4s to that dimension. I put them in at both ends and the middle to keep the long 2x4s from coming together as I carefully moved the slide IN. Practice with the button to get the timing on engaging the slide motor and how to manually STOP it immediately - before you put the 2x4's ontop of the slide. And to click the button a couple times until the audible warning message doesn't engage (so the slide won't reverse). This will keep the slide OUT and Up (inside). You don't want to let the high amp shutoff be relied upon to stop the slide movement as that is sure to break / bend something. Do it manually and a little bit at a time only enough to get the job done.

I put some blocks under the cabinets as a safety protection that the slide didn't back out (due to pressure or some electrical problem) and squash my hands / arms.

I tried to put a 4x4 timber underneath the length of the slide and lifted the slide like Newmar suggests on two floor jacks. This just tipped the slide Inward and put more pressure on the tiles than doing nothing. I tried under the arms and above the arms (below the box) and no success. Too bad because that sounded like the best way. Maybe I am not understanding their recommendation method.

I also put one long 2x4 on the slide top and moved the slide Inward until it tilted up. But accessing the tiles towards the sidewall is a long reach. Once you hit the exposed tiles, I think that loosens all of them up so popping the tiles under the slide was easy. Just needed a long Wonder Bar to pop the tiles up a bit.

Before replacing the old floor, This is good time to clean / service the rollers as the inside end gets highest clearance from the floor. Once clean, use the new clearance to clean the rollers really well. It would be a shame to ruin the new floor the first time the rollers touch them. Mine had plastic wrap and even some tile / gravel bits pushed into the soft roller. I used a file on one to get it all clean. Followed up with some acetone to clean it to new. I put some new flooring under the rollers any time I moved them in / out to keep them clean.

Manually remove the big tile pieces. I then used a shop vac with a 1" tube taped to the inside of the shop vac 2" hose. This gave me a tube that would fit underneath the slide to clean up the mess all the way to the sidewalls.

I used a mirror and flashlight to check on status of underneath was clean etc. You can't get your head down enough to see completely under the cabinets.

After your floor is all in, the slides will need to be readjusted for the new floor height. The screws underneath the slide that are most outboard adjust the slide height when the slide is closed. I moved the slide in ALMOST until the slide was closed to double check it wasn't going to hit the body opening anywhere. I still need to redo the adjustments. But I have to move the RV to my paved driveway to do that.

The floor is a pain to put in. Very tedious work. But glad the old stuff is now replaced.

Good luck on your project! Show some pics!

Tomorrow's project is to trim out the stairs and the slide ramp clearance gaps.

DirtyDodge · 09-28-2020, 10:11 PM

Looking really good Dave! really like the floor color. as far as your slide adjustment, wont that throw off the gap around the outer framing of the slide once its closed flush? unless it was already in need of adjustment. if your floor is taller or lower and you adjust the slide, wont the gap be off on the exterior framing? wasn't sure thought i'd ask. keep up the good work!

Dav L · 09-28-2020, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DirtyDodge

Looking really good Dave! really like the floor color. as far as your slide adjustment, wont that throw off the gap around the outer framing of the slide once its closed flush? unless it was already in need of adjustment. if your floor is taller or lower and you adjust the slide, wont the gap be off on the exterior framing? wasn't sure thought i'd ask. keep up the good work!

Hi Brian, there are two sets of adjustments: The outboard bolts (4) affect the slide In adjustment height of each side of the slide (that can affect Level). The Inner Saddle bolts affect the height of the slide when OUT. There are also side to side adjustments but the floor height shouldn't have affected that.

DirtyDodge · 09-29-2020, 10:20 AM

I understand how to adjust the slide. my Q is if you adjust the slide wont that throw off the alignment when closed? floor height will effect how far the slide tilts out or in, which different size slide rollers could only correct right? unless it was in need of adjustment when closed regardless of a new floor height

Dav L · 10-09-2020, 12:49 PM

I have been spending a few hours here and there continuing the repairs.
Here are a few pics on upgrading the old vinyl ceiling with RV fabric.

Starts with cleaning the old vinyl with prep-sol to rid any old oils.
Then an overcut piece of the fabric.
I tucked the piece under the panel divider that clamped it in place.
I then used blue duct tape and taped all areas that aren't to be glued.
I used 3M contact adhesive on both the backside of the fabric and the vinyl.
Dry for about 15 minutes.
Starting from the center edge, I rolled the fabric in place to minimize any chances of wrinkles. Applied the fabric until I hit the major trim areas.
I used a new single edge razor blade and made the course cuts. That relieved the material so it could be rolled in more places.

Once I see exactly where the fabric will tuck under the cabinets, I used the sharp razor to trim slightly larger to allow fabric to tuck ontop of the cabinets. I then used a 1" putty knife to push the fabric under the edges. Some of the cabinets I could unscrew a bit to make it easier to tuck under. Some other places I trimmed tight to the cabinet and pushed the fabric into the corners.

Easy job. Just check things twice before cutting. Now I can think about powering the blinds...

**JohnRR** · 10-09-2020, 01:57 PM

That puts an outstanding touch to it.

MSHappyCampers · 10-09-2020, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dav L

I have been spending a few hours here and there continuing the repairs.
Here are a few pics on upgrading the old vinyl ceiling with RV fabric.

Starts with cleaning the old vinyl with prep-sol to rid any old oils.
Then an overcut piece of the fabric.
I tucked the piece under the panel divider that clamped it in place.
I then used blue duct tape and taped all areas that aren't to be glued.
I used 3M contact adhesive on both the backside of the fabric and the vinyl.
Dry for about 15 minutes.
Starting from the center edge, I rolled the fabric in place to minimize any chances of wrinkles. Applied the fabric until I hit the major trim areas.
I used a new single edge razor blade and made the course cuts. That relieved the material so it could be rolled in more places.

Once I see exactly where the fabric will tuck under the cabinets, I used the sharp razor to trim slightly larger to allow fabric to tuck ontop of the cabinets. I then used a 1" putty knife to push the fabric under the edges. Some of the cabinets I could unscrew a bit to make it easier to tuck under. Some other places I trimmed tight to the cabinet and pushed the fabric into the corners.

Easy job. Just check things twice before cutting. Now I can think about powering the blinds...

Nice job!

426smartin · 10-09-2020, 07:17 PM

Looks good!!!

nbluesky · 10-09-2020, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dav L

I have been spending a few hours here and there continuing the repairs.
Here are a few pics on upgrading the old vinyl ceiling with RV fabric.

This looks great! I am inspired to replace some areas in mine now!

JMcG · 10-10-2020, 05:54 AM

Looking good DavL. Looking forward to see the finished product and where the maiden voyage will take you. Hang in there DavL, a lot more patience than I could ever have with such a huge project.
JMcG
2016 VTDP 3725

Dav L · 11-26-2020, 05:02 PM

It's been a while since last post but progress continues. I had previously purchased and installed an inexpensive slobber tube catch can. After it was installed several forum members pointed out a few issues like the fittings were likely too small to pass the expected air volume. And that the install had some dips in them that could further restrict venting. I stepped back and agreed with the insights.

So, purchased another inexpensive catch can that seems to address the issues. the fittings are larger than the Cummins slobber tube. I put a large 90 elbow and then a large diameter tube over the old slobber tube and put that over the catch can end. The catch can is now lower than the frame rail so I zip tied it to some hefty hydraulic lines so no dips in the system.

I think this one will work out. I'll post back after some drives on how well it catches the oil and how easy it is to empty.

Dav L · 11-26-2020, 05:35 PM

The wet bay showed some ravages of time and use. It is time to clean it up and modernize a bit.
Project starts with pulling it all apart and cleaning everything in the compartment.

I removed the walls and the drain pan. The drain pan was really dingy from hard water stains. I wet sanded the whole thing to freshen it up.

The hose reel had a lot of rust at the base. I used a wire wheel and a flap disc on a grinder to clean it all up. Followed by degreasing and some rattle can paint. Looks good again.

After the drain pan was reinstalled, I added Barker motorized drain valves. I took a picture with the Black water 3" installed and the 1 1/2" Grey not yet installed. I am installing the control electronics in the electric bay to the left of the wet bay. I want to keep as much of the electronics out of the wet bay as I can so it's easier to clean the wet bay.

I bought a 4x8 sheet of FRP from Home Depot (paneling department). I reproduced the sidewalls and front panel on the table saw to replace the old, cracked and yellowed panels. I have already reinstalled the side panels. Note the aluminum panels I made to strengthen the hatch prop attachment. I used stainless screws for most of the attachments. The blue tape marks the centerline of the hatch prop pivot to get it reinstalled in the right location.

The hose reel was replaced with longer stainless screws. I cut some 1/2" PVC conduit into 5 plastic washers to set the reel up a 1/4" to give some air room under the reel to keep it from rusting again. It's sturdier than the corroded original screws and should stay rust free and clean now. I might end up replacing the hose if it won't brighten up.

I purchased a water softener from Home Depot online. $200. A great deal. I also purchased the companion filter / regeneration unit to plumb in. The back panel will be cut to fit the diameter of the softener. I am diagramming the new plumbing and will next route the back panel holes to mount the new valves and gizmos.

Will post back once I complete some more steps.

Joyce M · 01-20-2021, 01:34 AM

Thanks for entertaining me tonight..Your work is special as others have said..
My 1988 Winnebago Super Chief thankfully doesn't need anything more than something to sparkle up the fiberglass exterior..
I found you when I started checking out "American Coach Basement rust"..I'll go back to that tomorrow...
This crummy plague is good for something...
Ride Safe & have FUN!