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Old 06-01-2020, 03:24 PM   #1
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My On-The-Go Water Softener Install

These are pictures of my On-the-Go Water Softener Install. I think a lot of our water bays and the opposite site which usually has the peg board are nearly the same, so this would probably work for many unless you are adamant about keeping your pegboard. I removed my pegboard shortly after getting my rig about a year ago as it opens up a little more storage space and I can then actually see my tanks, connections, etc.

You will also note that I don't have a fresh water hose reel. You can do this installation if you have one, you'd just have to remove it to have space to work, then put it back in. I removed mine permanently last summer when I found out that there really wasn't adequate room for it height wise as it was rubbing hoses above it it was installed so tightly in the space. Guess how I found out it was rubbing hoses above it!!!

Anyway. This install is pretty simple. Here goes.

1. On my unit, the hose coming OUT of the water filter goes to the water switch distribution panel used to select between city water, water tank, etc. I cut that line (after determining where the "pipes" that would run to and from the water softener would be).

2. I then measured a length of 3/4" PEX that would extend across the top of the fresh water tank. I installed FIP fittings on each end. I also put a length of the foam pipe insulation on it to not only keep potential condensation at bay but also to lift it off the top of the water tank so it couldn't rub. As a last step, I installed MIP fittings (with the other end barbed for the hose size...5/8" ID on this side) into the FIP ends BEFORE putting the pipe in place as it is a LOT easier to do it before you have the pipe in a confined space and get the connections nice and tight.

3. I fed this pipe side-to-side on top of the tank being careful not to interfere with any wiring in the area. I slid the hose end onto the barbed MIP fitting and tightened a hose clamp to seal it.





4. I performed steps 2 & 3 for the return side from the softener.



5. I put the softener into a plastic storage box I got at Walmart that fit just snuggly front to back into the space between the water tank and the edge of the door opening. I haven't installed a drain on it yet, but plan to in the future in case of a material leak occurring (note that the PEX ends mated to the hoses are located OVER that plastic bin in case of a leak). I held them in place there by using a zip tie through the holes in the plumbing strap that holds the tank in place and around the PEX on each side so they cannot slip over.

6. Softener side connections. The softener came with a short water hose (1/2" ID on this hose) with hose thread connections on each end. I cut that in half and installed the cut ends over the MIP connections barbed ends already installed on the PEX. These were secured with hose clamps. These two hose pieces were screwed on to the hose connections already on the water softener.



7. Since I certainly could not rely on the PEX and hoses holding the softener in place, especially if I had to aggressively brake, I used a ratchet strap to hold it in place. There is not an abundance of places for a ratchet strap to connect to. I wanted to use the heavy angle iron that supports the grey and black water tanks (above the fresh water tank) as the anchor, but I could only do so on the angle iron to the rear as it stuck out a bit past the tank enough so I could drill a 7/32" hole in it (that was the only bit I had for hardened steel) and I used an S hook open on one end and closed on the other to put in that hole. The ratchet hook connects to that. You could dispense with the S hook if the drill hole was large enough to take the hook directly on the ratchet. If I wouldn't have been able to connect there, I might have been forced to go through the back wall, which is the fender well, and attach a bracket like I describe next, but I'm glad I didn't have to.



There were too many wires in the way and no extra angle iron on the front, so I had to mount an angled bracket to the little wall that used to attach to the pegboard. Since there was space behind that little wall, I used 1/4" bolts with fender washers behind to mount it. I had a couple of these brackets just laying around. I'm sure any hardware store would have something similar or one could use angle iron and make one.



Here's the completed installation:



Now I won't have to haul the softener out each time I need to set up and haul it back for take down. I can also utilize my existing whole-house water filter instead of having another one in front of the softener outside. I will only have to remove it and put it back for recharging. All I have to do is release the ratchet strap and unscrew the hose fittings to remove it.

As I said in the beginning, if you are dead set on keeping your pegboard wall, then this will not work as there is not enough depth to fit it in. If you are willing to remove that wall, it will JUST fit the larger model, and I had to put it in the space between the black and grey tanks. I think the single size version would fit easily anywhere in the space. I also have room for my emergency reflective triangle kits and one of my larger fire extinquishers. Works for me. Hopefully if you've been looking for a space to install yours, but haven't thought of this space, it will allow you to have the advantages of an interior installed location.
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Old 06-01-2020, 03:32 PM   #2
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Nice write up! I have been exploring options for mounting our unit also after a whirlwind trip last week with stops every night. I use my pegboard now but might be able to cut it down some. Looks like you have the same 16,000 grain OTG softener.
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Old 06-01-2020, 06:18 PM   #3
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Well I spent a fair amount of time trying to figure out how I was going to route my On-The-Go double size to another bay - figuring I’d have to go behind the very full electric bay. This seams much easier a route.

Thanks for the detailed write up and pics.

- Richard
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Old 06-01-2020, 09:31 PM   #4
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Same concept different softener manufacturer. but I installed my 16000 grain water unit
https://ifilters.com/collections/rv-...ts-car-washing

in the oasis bay next to the wet bay.

It's a tight fit and the tank inlet and outlets needed a certain orientation so the oasis and softener hoses and fittings would not interfere. May not work for all coach configurations.

Quick and dirty summary of my install.

1. Disconnected house inlet to Newmar water filter and ran flex tubing from hose reel / backflow to Oasis bay/water softener and retrun run from bay to inlet of house water filter.
2, Used a combination of Garden hose quick disconnect and PEX fittings.
3, I can quickly disconnect the filter in the Oasis Bay and use it for salt regeneration and or backwash.
4. Used flexible braided potable water tubing vs PEX so I can easily disconnect and remove if ... Nah when I need to get to the Oasis unit. Also used flexible tubing so I had slack to remove filter to add salt for regen.
5, Can remove it all from oasis bay and bypass using the quick disconnect fitting.
6. Used bussing dish tub from Amazon to hold tank and filter in case of leaks
7. installed a an inline garden hose water meter in wet bay so I know how how many gallons of water I have use since last regeneration
8. Braced the wall used to anchor the water softener with 2 scrap 2x6 pieces I had lying around.
9. Used marine gas tank straps and brackets to secure tank and filter.
10, Used green noodle to prevent rubbing and protect water meter.


Its was not difficult to install but a royal pain trying to figure out the best place to run the tubing in the wet and oasis bays, how to secure the tank, orientation of tank to avoid things interfering or rubbing and an easy way of getting the filter out for regen. Many different configs tried prior to cutting and clamping tubing and fittings. Still looking at ways to reduce the number of connection/fittings to reduce the chance of leaks.

Also found out when you turn the city water off at the hose bib if you move the city water fill valve from auto to manual it will drain the water from the coach to the fresh water tank. Think low point drain. OR you get a surprise shower when you open the quick disconnect to remove the filter in the oasis bay as all the water in the coach lines drain on you I'm a slow learner, i showered twice before I figured it out.
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Old 06-02-2020, 07:33 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spk64 View Post
I use my pegboard now but might be able to cut it down some.
I hadn't really thought about it, but a person certainly could do a little reframing of the pegboard structure and still have it on both sides of the softener, should they desire that approach. Could then use that structure to secure the softener.
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Old 06-02-2020, 08:49 AM   #6
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I took some rough measurements last night and it appears my pegboard area is not deep enough for the ~8” diameter OTG unit. I have a potential spot in a bay next to HydroHot Bay that could work. Just not as convenient as it is a short height door under slide and requires tank to be deep in the bay.
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Old 06-02-2020, 03:01 PM   #7
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To the OP: I have a similar install but in the back of the next bay which is the only one tall enough. My question to you is have you thought of a way hard pipe the discharge when regen to the gray tank? I already have a T on the discharge of the WS with one side connecting to supply. I also have a clear water filter canister permanently installed on the inlet side. It’s inline and MT so water just flows through during normal operation. To regen I just open, add salt, close to regen. Now I have to crawl into the bay to connect a discharge hose. Cumbersome at least .
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Old 06-02-2020, 03:45 PM   #8
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To the OP: My question to you is have you thought of a way hard pipe the discharge when regen to the gray tank?
At this time I haven't given any thought to regen other than removing the unit from the bay. I've never had a softener before, but my plan being a "vacation" type user right now was to just do it at home. However, with retirement and a lot more travel in the near future plans, it's a good thing to think about. Having never done a regen, I haven't "lived" the process yet and don't know what I might do to make the process easier. But since the unit is literally sitting next to the grey tank, there may be a way to put a T of some kind on one of the pipes already leading to the tank and a T on the output side of the softener with the pipe inbetween having a one-way check valve such that the two could be connected for such an operation.
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Old 06-03-2020, 01:16 PM   #9
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I suggest this bc the discharge during regen will kill all plant matter not help the soil any either.
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Old 06-03-2020, 04:15 PM   #10
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I suggest this bc the discharge during regen will kill all plant matter not help the soil any either.
PERFECT! I can do it on the gravel parts of my driveway and save on Roundup!!!
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