Need thoughts on Newmar installing satellite coax

[RMD3819]

I have 2016 VT and when I can't use the roof dish I set up the tripod satellite and feed the antenna through the driver's window to the A/V compartment.

I tried to use the cable in connector in the power compartment but that did not work.

In the tech forum I posted about this and the response was too many splitters etc for a sat connection to work.

Now...Newmar is quoting $1K to run a dedicated line from the power compartment to the A/V compartment just so I can avoid running the coax through a window. I am seriously considering doing this as the wife HATES when the wire is coming in the window and hanging through the interior to the compartment.

We have to go there for some other work anyway.

I am not good at DIY so before I fork over the cash does anyone have another idea?

[Luv2go]

Originally Posted by RMD3819

I have 2016 VT and when I can't use the roof dish I set up the tripod satellite and feed the antenna through the driver's window to the A/V compartment.

I tried to use the cable in connector in the power compartment but that did not work.

In the tech forum I posted about this and the response was too many splitters etc for a sat connection to work.

Now...Newmar is quoting $1K to run a dedicated line from the power compartment to the A/V compartment just so I can avoid running the coax through a window. I am seriously considering doing this as the wife HATES when the wire is coming in the window and hanging through the interior to the compartment.

We have to go there for some other work anyway.

I am not good at DIY so before I fork over the cash does anyone have another idea?

Newmar does not have the lowest prices but their work is good, so if you're going there anyway it's probably worth it. If you're in the southwest in winter (Quartzite, Slab City) you can probably get similar quality work done more cheaply but you do have to do your homework regarding the vendors/service people.

There should be a way to re-purpose the cable TV wire for this, you will have to trace the wire (which can be done with a DMM and a jumper), find and eliminate the splitters and possibly put the satellite receiver in the first cabinet it goes to even if it is in the bedroom. On our coach the cable TV wire comes directly to the A/V cabinet up front but it's a 2008 and they've changed the wiring drastically since then for HDTV and HDMI, etc.

[Stuart W]

Originally Posted by RMD3819

I have 2016 VT and when I can't use the roof dish I set up the tripod satellite and feed the antenna through the driver's window to the A/V compartment.



I tried to use the cable in connector in the power compartment but that did not work.



In the tech forum I posted about this and the response was too many splitters etc for a sat connection to work.



Now...Newmar is quoting $1K to run a dedicated line from the power compartment to the A/V compartment just so I can avoid running the coax through a window. I am seriously considering doing this as the wife HATES when the wire is coming in the window and hanging through the interior to the compartment.



We have to go there for some other work anyway.



I am not good at DIY so before I fork over the cash does anyone have another idea?

What dish do you have on the roof ?and what provider do you use? is it HD?

[Ron Postma]

So you are saying they did not run a dedicated coax for satellite use. My 2005 Monaco gas coach had one, and my 2014 Winnebago Tour has one also. One thing you could do is remove the stock splitters and replace them with satellite diplexer units. These will allow you to simultaneously send satellite signals and terrestrial TV signals on the same piece of coax. Check out this site Satellite Diplexer: Signal Combiner and Splitter. This will cost you less than $50.00. Much better than $1000 If you have any further question or need help PM me.

[RockyMtnRide]

How many splitters are you talking about and are they diplexers or straight splitters. Satellite systems don't like to share coax without a diplexer on both ends to in essence split the signal. I use a single coax from the front of my coach to the bedroom with diplexers on both ends and share the coax for both OTA signals and my Dish signal
Didn't work at all with a common splitter.

[siggyd]

Why don't you run a coax from under the front hood through the "fire wall", then up the drivers window side to the overhead cabinet ?
That is how I would route an outside dish. I don't know where your receiver is located.
Siggy

[Stuart W]

Originally Posted by siggyd

Why don't you run a coax from under the front hood through the "fire wall", then up the drivers window side to the overhead cabinet ?

That is how I would route an outside dish. I don't know where your receiver is located.

Siggy

I agree, I have considered doing this. My system is above driver

[GlenStMary]

I experienced the same issues as the original poster, and this is how I solved the problem. I simply purchased, at Lowes, one of their plastic, stick-on cable connector boxes. I attached that to the wall of the bay below the drivers seat (the one with all of the fuse and electrical connections). That is where I connect my external SAT antenna cable.
Then I attached a quad shielded cable to that box connector and ran it up into the cab along with all the 12 volt cables and other stuff into the cabinet under the drivers side window. From there, it's an easy run up through the dash and up the front window pillar to the electronics cabinet. All I have to do when using the outside antenna, is to disconnect the roof antenna cable from the swm box and attach the cable from the outside antenna. I've been thinking about using an A/B switch, but so far we've only had to use the outside antenna once this year, and it only takes 1 minute to switch cables.

[pilotspike]

Here is what i would do:

• Close my eyes and visualize the run between the compartment and the A/V cabinet. Try to anticipate how that cable will be run through the coach, to include compartments, furniture, access panels etc. Also, consider what positions you will have to get into to run that cable, make sure it works, etc.
• Open your eyes and write a check to Newmar.
• Have a beer.

You can thank me later

John

[RMD3819]

Originally Posted by Stuart W

What dish do you have on the roof ?and what provider do you use? is it HD?

We have DirecTV.

There is an in motion SD which works but we never use.

We had them install a Travlr on the roof which is our primary. It is HD.

Have a tripod HD dish.

Have a batwing for OTA stations.

[RMD3819]

Originally Posted by GlenStMary

I experienced the same issues as the original poster, and this is how I solved the problem. I simply purchased, at Lowes, one of their plastic, stick-on cable connector boxes. I attached that to the wall of the bay below the drivers seat (the one with all of the fuse and electrical connections). That is where I connect my external SAT antenna cable.
Then I attached a quad shielded cable to that box connector and ran it up into the cab along with all the 12 volt cables and other stuff into the cabinet under the drivers side window. From there, it's an easy run up through the dash and up the front window pillar to the electronics cabinet. All I have to do when using the outside antenna, is to disconnect the roof antenna cable from the swm box and attach the cable from the outside antenna. I've been thinking about using an A/B switch, but so far we've only had to use the outside antenna once this year, and it only takes 1 minute to switch cables.

When you ran the cable up did you just fish it up there or was some panel removal etc required?

[Stuart W]

Originally Posted by RMD3819

We have DirecTV.



There is an in motion SD which works but we never use.



We had them install a Travlr on the roof which is our primary. It is HD.



Have a tripod HD dish.



Have a batwing for OTA stations.

I just was talking to Winegard about this, they recommend the switch in this diagram , you can google the part number to find it $75 to $90. If your using a HD dish you don't need the 2nd power inserter and SWM. I would go through the fire wall ( vertical wall in front of drivers feet) and run the coax into and then up the divers side pillar cover. The outside hook up location will always change based on your location so it is really irrelevant where it is located. Just need a longer coax cable

[GlenStMary]

Originally Posted by RMD3819

When you ran the cable up did you just fish it up there or was some panel removal etc required?

I removed the 9 screws holding the plastic cover over the pillar and once done there was plenty of room to hide the cable in the pillar. The whole job only took about 1 hour. The hardest part of the cable run was getting the cable from the electrical cabinet outside, up through the cabinet top and into the coach. I had to remove several screws from the drivers side transmission control console/drink holder cover so I could fish the cable up cleanly. It all went back together smoothly and all works

[Dutch Star Don]

"RMD".....As others stated, you don't need to run a cable all the way from the power bay. You just need a cable from the entertainment bay down to the front of the coach, either under the hood or in the electronics bay under the driver's window.

This is pretty easy to do. In the electronics bay, you'll see a group of wires in the upper left corner, exiting the bay. They are surrounded by expansion foam to insulate the opening. Take a wire hangar, punch it through the insulation until you feel it go through. Hook a new length of coax to it and pull the majority through of the cable through. Look under the hood or the front of the coach and you'll see the coat hangar you pushed through. Now look at the firewall on the driver's side. You'll see more wires and more foam. Push the hangar through that foam, it will exit under your dash. Once there, you can route it up the "A" pillar. Your "A" pillar is the pillar on the driver's side between the windshield and driver's window. It has a large plastic cover over it. The cover comes off with abut 6-8 screws. Once off, you'll see a bunch of wires behind it. Just continue your coax up that pillar and into the cabinet. This sounds like a lot, but very easy to do, even for a non DIY guy.

Attached is a photo of what's behind the "A" pillar.

Once done, you'll have a dedicated line for the Tripod satellite. You may want to buy a 100' of coax, using 10' to get into the entertainment cabinet and leave the other 90' rolled up in the outside bay for use as needed.