Community Forums

twinboat · 07-05-2020, 01:58 PM

The positive inverter cable should go to a 300 amp fuse, near by.
Move one cable there.

The grounds should be able to be moved or combined on a chassis bolt and nut.

gsdutch · 07-05-2020, 02:43 PM

DANG, none of the batteries I have had and replaced do not. Once again I make a statement that is proven to be wrong!

inspired2rv · 07-05-2020, 05:01 PM

We have a 2010 DS. One of the barrety posts has 6 connections. We just had the batteries replaced by Tallahassee Trucking and RV Service. They used a military grade battery extension as shown in the photo. So far so good.

Winemaker2 · 07-05-2020, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luv2go

How about this:

Get a piece of copper pipe, maybe 1/2" dia to 3/4" dia, the thickest wall you can find, pound it flat, cut it in about 2" sections, drill and round off appropriately to use as a buss bar. Maybe use two of these, one on top of the other, for increased current carrying capacity, whatever fits on your battery lug. Connect one end to the battery and use an appropriate size bolt, nut, washers and lockwasher to connect the lugs that won't fit.

The copper in the pipe makes a very good conductor so you won't have any issues connecting your inverter through it. I'd protect the copper from corrosion by using your favorite battery terminal spray, grease or whatever.

Another idea would be to use post to bolt connectors on the posts of your new batteries to connect one of the wires.

I like this approach. Only improvement I'd suggest is to thin the copper w solder. When I cleaned my tray, replaced 8 GC battys some of my cable plugs were corroded enough that some of the running was gone. Pretty easy to clean up and re- tin. It looks like some of your lungs are tinned others not. With FLA battys corrosion will be more prevalent w bare copper.
Your wiring diagram is similar to mine and appreciate the issue once I saw your cables are 3/0.

Winemaker2 · 07-05-2020, 05:56 PM

WOW. Not sure I'd be comfortable w 6 stacked terminals?!
I think I'd be using a good heavy duty buss bar.

Quote:

Originally Posted by inspired2rv

We have a 2010 DS. One of the barrety posts has 6 connections. We just had the batteries replaced by Tallahassee Trucking and RV Service. They used a military grade battery extension as shown in the photo. So far so good.

rmcobb · 07-06-2020, 03:44 PM

Well, for closure on this, I used half inch copper pipe and flattened it out. Worked out fine. Everything is all nice and fresh now.

Pictures are prior to spraying the terminals with anti corrosion.

Luv2go · 07-07-2020, 04:24 AM

Looks Good

Winemaker2 · 07-07-2020, 06:15 AM

Nice job!
Much better than the all thread approach IMO
I'm filing this away in case I run into the same problem.

xbcsutter · 07-07-2020, 08:49 AM

Thanks to all for solutions and final pics! Will be doing this fix shortly (no pun intended)...

xbcsutter · 07-22-2020, 10:17 PM

Thanks Guys, did the 1/2” copper pipe tabs, clean solution IMHO.

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farmerman · 07-24-2020, 06:11 AM

Blue seas sell an adapter to put extra cables. It’s great we use on boats with the same battery setup

twinboat · 07-24-2020, 06:57 AM

Maybe its the angle of the view, but every terminal lug looks almost twice as think as the copper link.

That means that all three current carrying cables are drawing thru a thin copper link. I wonder how hot that link is getting under load.

I would use a thicker link or, at least, put the heaviest current carrying cable back directly on the battery stud with the link.

bucks2 · 07-24-2020, 10:06 AM

Another way is to have a short cable made (6" ?)to go from the battery to the side where you can bolt all the cables together using whatever length of bolt you need. Be sure to have it end up in a place that can't short out to something OR use a piece of rubber hose slit to accommodate the cables and then fastened securely to avoid shorting.

xbcsutter · 07-26-2020, 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twinboat

Maybe its the angle of the view, but every terminal lug looks almost twice as think as the copper link.

That means that all three current carrying cables are drawing thru a thin copper link. I wonder how hot that link is getting under load.

I would use a thicker link or, at least, put the heaviest current carrying cable back directly on the battery stud with the link.

The photo does make new copper tab look thin. However, as rigged the only current running through the 1” copper tab is amps to and from the single battery. Loads running cable to cable are higher; to inverter, charger etc. Several ways to look at it... [emoji41]