I just finished replacing the old fiberglass sink in my 2005 Dutchstar. I had to spend a lot of time finding one that would come close to fitting my existing cutout. Here are some pictures and part numbers to hopefully save others time if they want to replace their original white fiberglass sink.
Original opening in Corian countertop: 23.75" X 17"
New opening in countertop: 26.25" X 17"
This new sink only required me cutting one end of the counter, the right side as the left side is already very close to the adjoining cabinet.
I rough cut the Corian with a jig saw first taping a plastic bag under the sink to catch the dust. I was also cutting through the aluminum "C" channel that holds the undermount sink to the counter.
After rough cutting the Corian I then used a hacksaw blade holder to cut the two short lengths of C channel that were at either end of my cut out. After cutting through the C channel I then gently pried the thin section of C channel that was left. I was concerned about cracking the Corian if I tried to pry the entire piece of C channel in one piece. The way I did it the remaining aluminum kind of "peeled" easily from the bottom of the Corian. After this I used a sharp putty knife to remove any remaining glue and/or silicone from the bottom of the Corian. I followed this up sanding with 120 grit sandpaper until everything was smooth and clean.
I then made a template using a piece of 1/4" plywood. I laid the plywood over the left end of the sink and from below I traced the shape of the sink to mark the template.
I then clamped the plywood to the counter using three plastic clamps.
I tapped the template so my cut would leave a little extra Corian as I did not want to increase the 17" "depth" dimension. Starting at the back of the sink I routed halfway around my template (I had a good friend watch as I was cutting to make sure the template was not moving, we pencil marked the counter on the outside so he could watch for movement).
After cutting halfway around, we then tapped the front of the template to assure the router cut would be slightly heavy, just like we did in the back.
I then finished the router cut from the middle of the right side, up to the front of the sink.
Then using a flat file, 80, 120 and 220 grit paper we cleaned up the opening and broke the edge around the cut.
Once everything was cleaned up I used two hiking poles and some cheap yellow poly line to secure the sink after I siliconed it's flange.
After siliconing the sink I glued the old aluminum "C" channel back into new right side position. I let the silicone dry for 24 hours.
I then installed the ten hex bolts with the included brackets from the new sink. I needed to cut some small 1.5" X 1.5" shims from the 1/4" plywood to set under the sink flange for the new brackets to contact.
I then installed two new Glacier bay drains that I purchased from Home Depot. I used these as they were cheaper and shorter than the other brands. They are chrome plated brass and appear to be pretty nice. The DW likes them.
Next I had to cut the horizontal run of my drain pipe downstream of the trap. I did not shorten the pipe I just cut it in half. I then reconnected all of my original sink drain plumbing to the two new strainers leaving all joints slightly loose and then slide the new 1 1/2" to 1 1/2" rubber flexible coupling over the two pieces of horizontal drain pipe. I then tightened all of the drain fitting and then tighten the two hose clamps on the rubber adapter.
I leaked checked the sink and plumbing and had a cold beer!
Hope this thread benefits someone.
New sink, double bowl stainless steel purchased from MR Direct.
P/N: 530L 18-Gauge Undermount Offset Double Bowl Stainless Steel Kitchen Sink
Glacier Bay sink strainer --> Model # 25917 Store SKU #112704
Flexible coupling --> Fernco P1056-150 1-1/2-Inch Stock Coupling
The strainers in the picture are from MR Direct and are too tall for the existing plumbing.
Existing Corian sink covers
Linear Mode
