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Old 01-14-2014, 07:40 PM   #1
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New to Us 04 Dutch Star and problems with

We have just completed a 1200 mile return to home park with our new to us 2004 Dutch Star. A few problems have cropped up along the way.
1: The steps run but do not open or close completely. Seems to be mechanically loose drive unit.
2: When I hooked up cable for the first time last night (yes, in the dark), we had no signal. our internet is on that same cable and we did not have it either. This morning I trouble shot it and found the cable in the motorhome to be open somewhere along it's length. I bypassed it in a not very satisfactory way and am wondering if the original cable can be replaced simply.
3: the previous owner had a computer chip or THE computer chip replaced. That reset the odometer to zero. We have met them ( at the dealer, after we bought their coach and they bought their new one.) and know how many miles is on the coach. Is there any way to verify that with a ECU read out? In Texas it is not a real big deal. But I really like things ship shape.
4: Is there a fix for the toilet that is so wide it does not rinse the entire bowl when flushed. Dometic I believe.

We really love this Dutch Star. We really want to take good care of it.
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Old 01-14-2014, 08:23 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taffrail View Post
...the previous owner had a computer chip or THE computer chip replaced. That reset the odometer to zero. ... Is there any way to verify that with a ECU read out?
When I connected my SliverLeaf VmsPc system is showed the mileage since "birth" along with gallons of fuel used and average mpg, all since the coach was built.

Would that give you what your're looking for?

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Old 01-14-2014, 09:08 PM   #3
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You can try lubing the step mechanism with spray lube. If the motor is shot and you are handy, use the search box at the top of the page to find many threads about replacing the motor. You can pay big bucks for an electric step motor or install the exact same mechanism for a (typically) Ford window motor and transmission that does the same thing for much less $$.

On the cable, if you have an antennae amplifier, it must be off before cable hook up works. Not sure about cable/internet connection, most campgrounds I've been in use type F coax cable hook ups and have WiFi, not direct Cat5 hook up. If the cable cord is the standard type F connector coax cable, yes, it's nothing different than any other one. If it is different than that, you'll have to check with an electronics store.

Many RV toilets have a sprayer, like a kitchen sink one, on a hose hanging next to the bowl. It helps clear the bowl without using gallons of water. If yours isn't equipped with one, you might check if one can be added on, I've seen toilets with the plumbing in place, just no hose and sprayer.
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Old 01-15-2014, 07:27 AM   #4
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Welcome to the forum.
Congratulations on your DSDP many safe travels for you.
Here is a Brochure and Owners Guide for you.

In my signature below there are three links with info for your Newmar.

I think you questions have been answered you know the selector box has to have cable selected and the Ant amp has to be off, should than get your cable signal unless previous owner has changed something than you will have to identify the cable runs to switch box.
Enjoy the forums.
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Old 01-15-2014, 08:56 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 007";1885015]Welcome to the forum.
Congratulations on your DSDP many safe travels for you.
Here is a [B][URL="https://comnet2.newmarcorp.com/instance1Env77NEWMAR/html/images/2004DSDPOG.pdf
Brochure[/URL][/B] and Owners Guide for you.

In my signature below there are three links with info for your Newmar.

I think you questions have been answered ......
I guess I did not make it clear. I know what the problem is. I ohms checked the cable, one end to the other and it is open, as in broken. Center lead is broken. I know that for sure. What I would like to know is if there is a simple way to replace the defective cable.

As for the toilet, we do have the extra handheld sprayer. The problem is not bowl cleanliness. It is the water leaks out. A small amount of standing water in your toilet bowl is the ONLY barrier between you and whatever smell is in your black water tank. I would like to be able to keep a small amount of standing water in the toilet bowl. But it leaks out.
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Old 01-15-2014, 09:25 AM   #6
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I guess I did not make it clear. I know what the problem is. I ohms checked the cable, one end to the other and it is open, as in broken. Center lead is broken. I know that for sure. What I would like to know is if there is a simple way to replace the defective cable.

As for the toilet, we do have the extra handheld sprayer. The problem is not bowl cleanliness. It is the water leaks out. A small amount of standing water in your toilet bowl is the ONLY barrier between you and whatever smell is in your black water tank. I would like to be able to keep a small amount of standing water in the toilet bowl. But it leaks out.
There is a tool you can buy..looks like a bent screw driver...to clean the track the the slide for the bottom of the toilet goes in and out...builds up with paper over time......and the water will leak out...Chuck
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Old 01-15-2014, 10:59 AM   #7
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Taffrail- welcome to the forum and Newmar family. Maybe I can help with the toilet. We had an 06 DSDP which had the same problem, i.e. water leaked out of the toilet. I think it was a Sealand, but it had a sprayer and to flush it you stepped on a foot pedal. Ok, if that's what you have and cleaning the gasket as best you can (sometimes an old toothbrush brush works) doesn't work, replacing the gasket (the one between the bottom of the bowl and the closer thing) will solve your problem. The process isn't particularly nasty. Find the kit online or in an RV store. Remove the shroud surrounding the toilet: bolts are at the back. Seems to me I had to remove the shroud to find the toilet model number. If I remember correctly there is a siphon breaker fitting in back of the toilet that should be removed so that you can set the top aside when you're replacing the gasket (essentially what that does is disconnect the top half of the toilet from the water supply). Can't remember whether you do that before or after removing the shroud. Loosen the clamp ring that secures the top to the bottom. Pull the top off, remove the old gasket, put on the new one and reverse the process. Seems to me there was a hole in the gasket rim that had to go in a particular place.

I called tech services at Sealand and they talked me through the process before I started. Ask them about the siphon breaker and gasket hole.

Beginning to end it took me about 2 hours, and most of it was messing with those inconvenient bolts in back of the toilet---and no, they have to reinstalled in back because they won't fit it front. Hope this helps.
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Old 01-15-2014, 11:07 AM   #8
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Taffrail:

Welcome to the forum. Wish I could help but I am sure people in this forum will be able to give you some excellent advice. we are very similar to you. We just purchased a 2005 DSDP as our new home. We just sold our stick home and have started our fulltime adventure. We plan on taking care of our home the same as if it was our stick home with regular preventive maintenance.

Good luck and hope to see you out there.
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Old 01-15-2014, 11:11 AM   #9
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Taffrail, first, welcome to IRV2 and congratulations on the Dutch Star.

The short answer is, I don’t think there is an easy way to replace one of the coax cables. They run from the connection in the basement then up and in the walls and then in the ceiling to get to their destination. And I would bet that somewhere they are ‘bundled’ together with something (other cables, structural components, etc) making it impossible to just pull one cable out.

Before you start trying to replace all the cables I would try to narrow it done to one. Like BFlinn suggested, on my 2007 DSDP the TV Cable In box does not connect directly to the Entertainment Center. First it goes to the Antenna Amplifier (and switch) and then to the Entertainment Center. My Antenna Amplifier has three coax connections on the back. To watch over the air TV the Antenna Amplifier is set to on, to watch Cable TV the Antenna Booster has to be set to off. So was the problem in the cable from the TV In connection in the power bay to the Antenna Amplifier, or was it in the cable from the Antenna Amplifier to the Entertainment Cabinet? In my DSDP the Antenna Booster was in the wall behind the co-pilots seat.

Next, since you have an open, I would start by inspecting and replacing the connectors, starting at the Entertainment Center end since it is the one that has the potential for the most movement (pulling equipment in and out, adding new or replacing old equipment, etc). Typically a coax cable, if it has not been flexed a lot, will not fail under normal conditions. The most likely culprits would be the connectors and center pin. Or maybe a hard/tight bend at or near a connection. I know when I had a problem at the stick and brick, the TV cable repairman replaced every connection he could access and things cleared up. Make sure you use good quality conectors.

If you do have to replace a cable, you might consider relocating the Cable In connection to a basement location near the front of the RV and then route the new cable up the windshield post. Not sure this would even work, just thinking out loud, so to speak…

Good luck.
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Old 01-15-2014, 11:17 AM   #10
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Joelyn provided some excellent advise. I would just add a couple of small suggestions. One, flush the black tank first before you start taking the toliet apart to eliminate or reduce the oders. And two, make sure the water pressure is off (pump off and city connection off) before you take the toliet apart.

Happy trails...
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Old 01-15-2014, 12:32 PM   #11
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Here is information on Sealand toilet and cleaning, as to the cable if you can not find the open you will need to run another through the wiring harness under coach.
There are a couple more links for Sealand in QT's#3 but they may not apply to your problem cleaning should fix the seal up to hold water, always leave water in bowl even if the winter with anti freeze so seal does not dry out.
Some coach's have a cable connection in one of outside bays you may find a junction box there with opposite side cable feed running through it.
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Old 01-15-2014, 01:31 PM   #12
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About once a year or so, I don my trusty Rubber Gloves (make sure the water supply is off) and run my finger around the lip of the toilet seal to remove the "Debris" that seems to collect. Then I smear a little Silicone Grease (suitable for Rubber) around the seal.
Sounds worse than it is. Only takes a few minutes of your time and keeps the toilet seal doing its job.
Try this before you you take the next drastic step of replacing the seal......
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Old 01-15-2014, 02:17 PM   #13
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4: Is there a fix for the toilet that is so wide it does not rinse the entire bowl when flushed. Dometic I believe.
Wow, I would never have figured a problem with a leaking seal from your first posting!
I agree with dennis45, try manually wiping the seal and applying silicone grease. (available at any plumbing supply or big box hardware store) It doesn't sound like a fun job, but it's less distasteful than removing the bowl and replacing the seal. You might also try a gallon of hot water, dish soap, and a Calgon Water Softener solution poured in the bowl. It will leak out, but it might loosen any crud on the seal and mating surface that's preventing a good seal.
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Old 01-16-2014, 03:13 AM   #14
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All good advice on the toilet.

When we bought our coach, we had the same problem. All such advice at that time did not work. Finally I purchased a complete toilet seal kit and went to work.

It's not that difficult. I took the toilet apart, replaced all the seals. That was five years ago, and it's been working perfectly ever since.

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