Community Forums

knightstorm · 05-26-2017, 02:25 PM

Problem #1 - the fascia is bowed in. If I continue with this I will have to remove a longer section of plywood to hold it straight. I was only planning to notch it enough to clear the chair.

I'll sleep on it - I can always glue the fascia back on.

BPoland · 05-27-2017, 05:15 AM

Knightstorm

When I did mine, I removed the fascia from the plywood. I then went back and cut the plywood about 4 inches down from where the fascia joins the horizontal fascia that runs across the top of the slide. Then with both pieces removed, I glued them back together and installed the clips. This method, while it was more time consuming, allowed me to keep the factory joint between the vertical and horizontal fascia pieces. Although the piece you remove is heavier, it is manageable. It rides back on the bed, and with it removed, the seat has full movement. This picture doesn't show the clips or the wire loom that is installed over the front edge of the metal strip. You may also have to cut off 1/8 -1/4 inch off the bottom of the now removeable vertical piece to make it easier to remove and install. Good luck!

knightstorm · 05-29-2017, 01:59 PM

I did something very similar, but I made a vertical cut in the plywood and removed 2/3 of its width. I ran into some saw trouble so the vertical cut in the ply is nowhere near what I wanted in quality, but it is only visible when the trim is removed.

The aluminum strip in the back of the removed piece of ply locks the assembly in place and the magnetic catches keep it from sliding off (although the fit is tight enough without them). Slide right and off to remove and reverse the procedure to replace.

hogcard · 05-29-2017, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knightstorm

I did something very similar, but I made a vertical cut in the plywood and removed 2/3 of its width. I ran into some saw trouble so the vertical cut in the ply is nowhere near what I wanted in quality, but it is only visible when the trim is removed.

The aluminum strip in the back of the removed piece of ply locks the assembly in place and the magnetic catches keep it from sliding off (although the fit is tight enough without them). Slide right and off to remove and reverse the procedure to replace.

I'm not seeing what the aluminum strip attached to the cut out piece is attaching to. Can you show that a little clearer? Thanks

hogcard · 05-29-2017, 02:50 PM

Also how much room do you really gain with the small table at the lower half of the slide? Assume it only helps in reclining a little further?

knightstorm · 05-29-2017, 03:21 PM

The aluminum is screwed to the back of the cut piece of plywood. When the trim is in place the aluminum extends behind the fixed piece of ply (still attached to the slide) and locks the piece in place.

This is how much legroom I can pick up:

Dan McMartin · 05-29-2017, 10:31 PM

That's a nice fix. And you don't really need that much space to be comfortable, at least not in my opinion. I tried it at a dealer with the slide closed. I could get the seat into a position that was acceptable...not optimal but acceptable. And I'm a big guy.

Just a couple of inches would have been enough. I still consider the whole thing a design flaw but it's not that hard to get the 2-3 inches most drivers would need.

Honestly, Newmar could have easily modified the fascia, maybe done exactly what many in the thread have done by making it removable, trimming the wood and mental behind, etc. They moved, or optimized, the slide and near as I can tell looking at the 2018 floor plans, give up anything in the process.

Not really on topic, but that speak to their quality and commitment.

knightstorm · 05-30-2017, 06:52 AM

I took a close at mine, and the slide could be shortened almost 2 inches by eliminating the space at the sides of the couch. I have no idea what Newmar did.

I thought about hinges, but the fascia trim is 1/2" MDF (milled down to its profile and will not hold screws well.

My neighbor would have replaced the fascia and underlying plywood with one piece of maple, allowing use of a hidden (European style) hinge design. He has the equipment and skills to do the job -I don't.

BPoland · 05-30-2017, 07:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knightstorm

The aluminum is screwed to the back of the cut piece of plywood. When the trim is in place the aluminum extends behind the fixed piece of ply (still attached to the slide) and locks the piece in place.

This is how much legroom I can pick up:

I was lucky in a way. Our coach doesn't have a table on the front end of the slide. I would have been very hesitant to use my method on your coach. At the end of the day, any method that will give you more legroom or allow the seat to recline a bit, is a good one.

STORMY 1 · 07-02-2017, 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BPoland

I have the same issue with our 2014 Bay Star. I had thought about installing a hinge on that piece of trim. That way it could be folded away from the driver's seat during travel, and then returned to it's proper position when set up. It's nice to know I'm not the only one that has issues with the seat placement conflicting with the slide.

Did as you said and it works GREAT!
I'm 6' 4" and I have plenty of room.

STORMY 1 · 07-02-2017, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knightstorm

Looking at the pictures, the trim piece is attached to plywood. You may be able to cut and hinge the underlying plywood, with the trim piece folding towards the drivers side wall. If that approach works and gets you enough additional space, you won't need the Velcro. I also saw (or read about) someone who also trimmed the metal flange on the slide as well as the wood trim and plywood to pick up even more legroom.

I have a Bay Star coming in March or April and may end up trying something like this if I need more legroom.

Pry the trim piece off the plywood. Cut an "in" arch full length( away from seat), in the plywood. Attach trim piece with full length piano hinge. When you drive, just swing the trim out of the way. After set up, swing closed to Velcro in place.
If you are tall like me, I put in a 2-3" higher seat riser and that sealed the deal. Up higher and way back. 100%
better. The 2018's addressed and fixed this issue.

STORMY 1 · 07-02-2017, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AITG

Photos: First one shows the board removed for travel. There is a long piece of nylon split loom over the sharp edge of the aluminum. Photo 2 shows how much seat travel is added. Photo 3 is a little hard to see (black on black) but it shows the drawer clips screwed to the back of the trim board. The last one is looking at the back of the trim board showing the lock assembly.

My wife asked for the improvement - I was just going to live with it - and our salesman said they had done it once before. Good job Midway!

A full length piano hinge allows you to swing the trim out of the way and you don't have the piece laying around

STORMY 1 · 07-02-2017, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BPoland

I looked at the slide in or 2014 Bay Star. It looks like there is the wood trim piece, and then under that is particle board. The particle board is a continuous piece from the bottom of the slide all the way up to and under the top piece of moulding. If I pull the vertical fascia off, I still have the particle board to deal with. To get down to the piece where your latches are installed.

Gonna have to call Newmar to see if I can remove the Sienna Maple vertical piece as well as the majority of the particle board and not have a detramental effect to the stability of the slide out. If I can, then I will make the moulding and the particle board a one piece assembly, and then install the latches.

You can pry the trim piece off and make a inward cut in the plywood underneath and reattach the trim with a full length piano hinge. Swing the trim out of the way when driving. When set up, swing it back to Velcro
squares spaced on the plywood. Works like a charm. If you are tall, put a riser under the drivers seat and you're golden.

Ranger John · 04-05-2019, 09:54 PM

Mr old biker. My vertical trim was attached with staples. I used a hack saw blade to remove mine. With the blade alone, slid it behind the trim at the top. Using a sawing motion as I slid it to the bottom. You will receive resistance where staples exist. You don’t see the staples from the front because the trim is attached through the plywood backer board. If you want to discuss the details of the mod I performed, call me at (407) 955-0949. Ranger John