Community Forums

oldcouple · 12-14-2009, 08:44 PM

Useing the snap ring pliers and a mirror and a flashlight your have to remove the clips on the four corners, there may be some screws and bolts as well that hold it in, then you have to cuss it out of the opening, be sure to unhook the bulb and tap it out of the way and do not touch the bulb with bare hands as it will burn out sooner. Took me a couple of hours the first time, I have big hands so hard to work in the tight area of the inner fender.

dobrien · 12-16-2009, 07:19 AM

Rnicfingrp.

When I did mine a friend gave me a very very detailed description of how to replace.. I will try to find it and post.. It was 3 years ago but there is a chance..

almost all the work is done from the inside with gen slide in out postion.. took about 45 min per light and if you just start at it I am sure you could figure it out..

Alternalty any Ford dealer or autobody place would make short work of this task if you pulled in there...

Let me see what I can dig up.

dobrien · 12-16-2009, 11:11 AM

rnicfingip.

I was ble to find doc.

here is the long write up.... Someone took considerable effort and 3 of us have replaced them and they really update the look of coach for very little cost and effort.

Best regards.

Hello to all.
Here are the part numbers and prices for the replacement Headlamp
Lens that you will need.

Left Side # F2TZ13007B Retail $74.58
Right side #F2TZ13007A Retail $83.80

These Lamps were used for 1992 through 1996 Ford Full Size Pick Ups
and Bronco's.
You will not need the complete Headlamp Assemblies just the Lens. I
will try to put together the instructions as best as possible. I have
only changed tow sets so far. Any Ford dealer will know what these
part number are for. Also ask the dealer if they are using Matrix
part pricing, that is a rip off where as the dealer marks up the
retail price over the suggested retail price. Hope this helps you
folks.

I have been out of the Body shop to long but hear is the best I can
do for instructions.
Tools needed. Number 2 square head bit. Will need this bit 6 inches
long or an extention for same.
A 10 MM socket or Wrench. Socket set prefered.
Silicone grease of dialectric Grease to lubricate the Rubber o Ring
on the Bulb socket.
Asorted Pliers.
Large Phillups Bit.
No Drinks until after job is done.
First we will go for the right side as it is a little easier than the
drivers side.
Remove the Headlamp, and paking Lamp socket and let them Hang. Don't
touch the Halogen bulb with Fingers, good idea to clean same with
alcohol before reinserting. Remove the two 10 MM nuts and washer
holding the Parking Lamp in place.
Remove the large Phillups head screw that holds the side Lamp in
place. On the opening where the Hood fits into you will see a plastic
white plug, remove it to gain access to the square head screw that
holds the upper corner of the Headlamp Bezel. The Bezel is the gray
peice that surrounds the Headlamp, Parking lamp and Side Lamp. Take a
flashlight if your eye site is like mine and shine it on the back
side of the front Cap where the Headlamp is in line with the plastic
plug you just removed, there you will see the square headed screw
that must come out. On the left side there is an additional screw you
will have to remove, that screw holds the other corner of the Bezel.
It can been seen also with you flashlight. At this point if my memory
doesn't fail me you should be able to remove as a unit the Bezel,
Side and Parking Lamp. I suggest you unscrew the Bulb socket that are
remaining and set the Bezel assembly elsewhere out of the way. It
will be a little tight getting the Parking, Side Lamp and bezel off
past the Headlamp but it will come, be gentle it is only plastic. Now
to remove the headlamp. There are Three adjusters that must first be
removed from the Front fiberglass cap and once those have been
disconnected the complete Headlamp and all three adjuster will slide
out in you hand. IMPORTANT Each adjuster may have a different amount
of Spring Washers on them to keep the Adjuster tight so the Headlamp
doesn't flop around. Make sure you keep track of the amount and where
each set of the Washers go when it is time to reinstall them. Now
there is one Square head screw located just under one of these set of
Spring Washers that has to be removed. This can also be seen from the
back side with a Flashlight. Hear is the only tough part. On each
adjuster there is a Clip that holds the Spring Washers and Adjusters
in place, I suggest you pick the easiest one to get at, remove it and
look it over to see how it works before you tackle the blind clips or
the ones that are harder to get at. Now don't be worried if you break
an adjuster they can be purchsed sepately. Once all three adjusters
have been disconnected the Lamp will slide out. Set it along side the
new one facing in the same direction and one by one transfer the
Adjusters to the new Headlamp Lens. One of the adjusters has been
sealed in place with silicone and you will have to pick that off.
Grab one of the Adjusters with regular pliers where they go through
the Headlamp body and twist them counter clockwise until there
locking Tabs line up correctly and the adjuster will come off the
Lamp. Look very close at the locking Tabs and you will see they are
made to turn Clockwise in order to lock in place, you must force them
backwards to remove them. I took two very small flat screw drivers
and pried the Taps up so they would go over the locking device that
exist on the Lamp body. It can be done though with out using the
small screw drivers but it increases the risk of breakage. Once you
have installed all three adjusters you are now ready to reinstall all
the components. Just reverse the above. One last item, instead of a
Plastic plug like there is on the right side, the left side access
hole to the screw we mentioned earlier is hidden by the Hood Prop
Rod. Just remove the Prop Rod and use a long stick to hold the Hood
up. The complete job the second time took me about 1.5 hours, I will
not declare how long it took on my own coach the first time. I sure
hope I don't get any one in trouble and things go smoothly for all.
Before I forget, when you have the Headlamp Lens in hand place the
bulb socket where it goes and take notice it can only fit in one
spot. I used White Out to give me alignment marks in order to make it
easier to align them when it is time to finish installing the Lamp
socket into the Lamp body. Take care and the best of luck.
George

lonestarace · 12-17-2009, 07:08 AM

thanks george i ordered all the parts from another site that someone suggested and they were shipped to where paint job is being done.. they said they fit so we will see when we pick up coach...xtreme graphics in nacogdoches texas is doing the paint job, we expect finished product this next week, i am so excited to give our baby a new look on the outside, DH and i have already redone inside just a little bit of backsplash tile to do and we are done until another project comes our way. lisa

lonestarace · 01-05-2010, 01:12 PM

well here is the finished product.. hope you can see the picture

thanks for all the help hubby loves them...

Rnicfingrp · 01-05-2010, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dobrien

1995 Ford F150 is exact match.. 3 of us have replaced them our 1998, 1999 and 2000 dutch stars.

Do you have any information as to how to remove and install the new headlight assembly?

Rnicfingrp
2000 DSDP

dobrien · 01-05-2010, 06:15 PM

Great to see final product.

Rnicfngrp... Here are your full instructions.. This is the a very cheap way to really update the look of coach.

here is the long write up.... Someone took considerable effort and 3 of us have replaced them and they really update the look of coach for very little cost and effort.

Best regards.

Hello to all.
Here are the part numbers and prices for the replacement Headlamp
Lens that you will need.

Left Side # F2TZ13007B Retail $74.58
Right side #F2TZ13007A Retail $83.80

These Lamps were used for 1992 through 1996 Ford Full Size Pick Ups
and Bronco's.
You will not need the complete Headlamp Assemblies just the Lens. I
will try to put together the instructions as best as possible. I have
only changed tow sets so far. Any Ford dealer will know what these
part number are for. Also ask the dealer if they are using Matrix
part pricing, that is a rip off where as the dealer marks up the
retail price over the suggested retail price. Hope this helps you
folks.

I have been out of the Body shop to long but hear is the best I can
do for instructions.
Tools needed. Number 2 square head bit. Will need this bit 6 inches
long or an extention for same.
A 10 MM socket or Wrench. Socket set prefered.
Silicone grease of dialectric Grease to lubricate the Rubber o Ring
on the Bulb socket.
Asorted Pliers.
Large Phillups Bit.
No Drinks until after job is done.
First we will go for the right side as it is a little easier than the
drivers side.
Remove the Headlamp, and paking Lamp socket and let them Hang. Don't
touch the Halogen bulb with Fingers, good idea to clean same with
alcohol before reinserting. Remove the two 10 MM nuts and washer
holding the Parking Lamp in place.
Remove the large Phillups head screw that holds the side Lamp in
place. On the opening where the Hood fits into you will see a plastic
white plug, remove it to gain access to the square head screw that
holds the upper corner of the Headlamp Bezel. The Bezel is the gray
peice that surrounds the Headlamp, Parking lamp and Side Lamp. Take a
flashlight if your eye site is like mine and shine it on the back
side of the front Cap where the Headlamp is in line with the plastic
plug you just removed, there you will see the square headed screw
that must come out. On the left side there is an additional screw you
will have to remove, that screw holds the other corner of the Bezel.
It can been seen also with you flashlight. At this point if my memory
doesn't fail me you should be able to remove as a unit the Bezel,
Side and Parking Lamp. I suggest you unscrew the Bulb socket that are
remaining and set the Bezel assembly elsewhere out of the way. It
will be a little tight getting the Parking, Side Lamp and bezel off
past the Headlamp but it will come, be gentle it is only plastic. Now
to remove the headlamp. There are Three adjusters that must first be
removed from the Front fiberglass cap and once those have been
disconnected the complete Headlamp and all three adjuster will slide
out in you hand. IMPORTANT Each adjuster may have a different amount
of Spring Washers on them to keep the Adjuster tight so the Headlamp
doesn't flop around. Make sure you keep track of the amount and where
each set of the Washers go when it is time to reinstall them. Now
there is one Square head screw located just under one of these set of
Spring Washers that has to be removed. This can also be seen from the
back side with a Flashlight. Hear is the only tough part. On each
adjuster there is a Clip that holds the Spring Washers and Adjusters
in place, I suggest you pick the easiest one to get at, remove it and
look it over to see how it works before you tackle the blind clips or
the ones that are harder to get at. Now don't be worried if you break
an adjuster they can be purchsed sepately. Once all three adjusters
have been disconnected the Lamp will slide out. Set it along side the
new one facing in the same direction and one by one transfer the
Adjusters to the new Headlamp Lens. One of the adjusters has been
sealed in place with silicone and you will have to pick that off.
Grab one of the Adjusters with regular pliers where they go through
the Headlamp body and twist them counter clockwise until there
locking Tabs line up correctly and the adjuster will come off the
Lamp. Look very close at the locking Tabs and you will see they are
made to turn Clockwise in order to lock in place, you must force them
backwards to remove them. I took two very small flat screw drivers
and pried the Taps up so they would go over the locking device that
exist on the Lamp body. It can be done though with out using the
small screw drivers but it increases the risk of breakage. Once you
have installed all three adjusters you are now ready to reinstall all
the components. Just reverse the above. One last item, instead of a
Plastic plug like there is on the right side, the left side access
hole to the screw we mentioned earlier is hidden by the Hood Prop
Rod. Just remove the Prop Rod and use a long stick to hold the Hood
up. The complete job the second time took me about 1.5 hours, I will
not declare how long it took on my own coach the first time. I sure
hope I don't get any one in trouble and things go smoothly for all.
Before I forget, when you have the Headlamp Lens in hand place the
bulb socket where it goes and take notice it can only fit in one
spot. I used White Out to give me alignment marks in order to make it
easier to align them when it is time to finish installing the Lamp
socket into the Lamp body. Take care and the best of luck.