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Old 03-26-2016, 08:21 PM   #1
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Newmar MA DP Body Molding

The molding located 6 1/2” in front of the entry door hinge is protruding. I have tried a larger screw, but road vibration loosens the screw. I believe a long bolt with a stop nut anchored to the frame might be better. Has anyone else had this issue?
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Old 03-27-2016, 07:10 AM   #2
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Mine are still looking good.........you might want to try some weather strip adhesive, and maybe some light heat from a heat gun to take that curl out of it some. Try to reshape it to go the other way.
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Old 03-27-2016, 07:33 AM   #3
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Yes, I have the same issue and I too am looking for a good solution.
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Old 04-12-2016, 09:37 AM   #4
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I have the same issue with my 2004 Dutch Star model 4025.

It isn't just the rubber molding. It is the front end cap too.

Would love to find a solution.
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Old 04-13-2016, 10:42 AM   #5
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Your right ckiefer, it is the front end cap. The larger diameter screw worked well for a while until it loosened. It brought the side in and the front out. In a couple of weeks I will be parked in an area where I can work on it. There is a horizontal sheet metal plate, painted black that covers access to the area directly behind the screw. I'm going to remove that plate and try a small diameter bolt with a stop nut, if I succeed, I will post pics and info. I'm sure there are several with this issue. I know of an '06 MADP with the same issue.
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Old 05-04-2016, 09:48 PM   #6
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I got to the back side and posted info and photos on my blog. I used a bolt and stop nut to draw the side back in.
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Old 05-18-2016, 08:50 AM   #7
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We had this same separation issue on both sides of our coach. Last year, when the coach went in a local RV repair shop I asked them to look at this problem. They added a second screw above the stock one on the left side and simply replaced the screw with a large size on the right side. It appeared to fix the issue but a short while later the passenger side popped out again. I tried putting a second screw in, like the driver side, put it did not help.

I noted a reply earlier in this message thread that described the steel post in the wall behind and it made sense that my added screw did not help as it did not penetrate the steel tubing. I planned to drill a hole in the steel tubing and insert a longer screw that would go into the steel.

My coach is currently in for some service work at Midtown RV in Penticton, BC. Russ, one of their techs was working on my coach and I liked the way he explained the how and why of each of the items he worked on so I asked him to have a look at this, even though drilling and adding a new screw was an easy DYI task.

He said this was not an unusual issue with these coaches and said, adding a second screw above the first was what many repair people did and it usually works fine but leaves you with two screw where there should be only one and sometimes a third screw may be wanted to ensure the fix is permanent.

He then cut the silicone sealer along the edges of the trim and pealed the trim back up the end-cap seam for about 8 inches. Behind is an aluminum trim. He then drilled into the tube for my ineffective screw and drilled for a third screw above that. A screw went into the new third hole and sucked the end-cap in. After putting the trim back in place he replace my ineffective screw with a new one that anchored into the steel tubing and replaced the original lower screw with a larger sized one. New silicone and it came out as good as new, except for the screw I added due to not knowing the proper way to fix it.

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Old 05-19-2016, 09:44 PM   #8
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For my fix I used a small diameter bolt with a stop nut. The whole story is posted in my blog, w/ pictures.
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Old 09-27-2016, 12:15 PM   #9
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Dutch Star Front End Cap Fix

I liked By the Way's idea of using a bolt and nut, but didn't want to tear a hole into the aluminum, so I came up with this solution, which works so far, and I feel confident will continue to hold.

After raising the rubber trim a few inches,, I drilled a 5/32 inch hole through the aluminum that holds the rubber trim, fiberglass end cap, fiberglass body, and finally the steel support tube about 1/2 inch above the hole for the screw that held the trim. I then tapped threads into the steel support tube with a 4" extended shank 10/24 plug tap. (You need an extended length plug tap to reach the steel support tube.)
Finally I used a 2 " long 10/24 machine screw to pull the fiberglass in and hold it in place, then replaced the trim and trim screw.

Looks just like new, but the plug tap cost almost $27.00 from a local cutting tool distributor.
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Old 09-27-2016, 02:53 PM   #10
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Would 3M VHB tape be a fix?

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-RP2...eywords=3m+vhb
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Old 09-28-2016, 09:09 AM   #11
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If your thinking tape, your not understanding the problem. When this area bulges out, the fiberglass in front moves "in" also. It is not just the molding that is moving. There has to be enough strength in the bolt or screw to bring the side in and the front out. I removed and reinstalled the small panel (below and in back of the Nose slide) but it was not necessary. Mine has been holding well since April, 2016.
Thanks to all for your suggestions.
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