Norcold Replacement

[JLDHELMS]

I used two heavy "L" shaped brackets that I attached to wall and refrig thru original access panel. I covered that access hole with a plug, removable from outside, made from rigid insulation board.

Since my refrig is a French door style, I don't have to secure the bottom door but from the first trial run, I know that my upper side by side doors have to be secured. Did not want to install permanent hooks and straps so am currently using two black Velcro straps around the handles that are easily removed either in transit or while parked. Have not had a door opening so far. Simple and inexpensive.

[JC2]

Originally Posted by jimbo2013

I opened the outside door from the old unit, drove a few large screws into the 3/4 ply thru existing holes in the frame of the new fridge.

I pickup two child proof door latches at HD they stick on, much to my surprise they have lasted almost two years.

Thanks for the info. We currently have ours secured with screws also but I'm probably going to also put 2-3 long bolts with "large" washers on the top and underneath and use a locknut. Don't want that sucker coming out when booking down the road. I've looked at several locking methods so far but haven't quite put my finger on what I want. I've noticed several types of locks that are on residential fridges that came with the rv itself but don't know exactly where these might be available to the public.

[JC2]

Originally Posted by JLDHELMS

I used two heavy "L" shaped brackets that I attached to wall and refrig thru original access panel. I covered that access hole with a plug, removable from outside, made from rigid insulation board.

Since my refrig is a French door style, I don't have to secure the bottom door but from the first trial run, I know that my upper side by side doors have to be secured. Did not want to install permanent hooks and straps so am currently using two black Velcro straps around the handles that are easily removed either in transit or while parked. Have not had a door opening so far. Simple and inexpensive.

We don't have the big double door but the signal door Haier 10.2 cu ft in black. I'm considering possibly using some hvy duty Velcro on the top freezer door and bottom fridge door itself.

[HHIDan]

My fridge is a Samsung RF18. I used 2 sets of Sugatsune HC85/S, one between the french doors and one on the side of the freezer (bottom) door. Works really well, on wood I used screws but on the refrigerator, I used the strongest double sided tape I ever seen (Scotch). Very happy so far. They are the same locks that Entegra use on their new coaches.
Available here:
http://www.amazon.com/Sugatsune-HC-8.../dp/B00IKFIICE

[gmarsha2]

Thanks for the feedback. I have rechecked the info that I sent and yes the reference to the 15 amps refers to the circuit requirements for the refrigerator power and not the usage. The rewiring should have read "micro switching with the Refrigerator" connections. I am trying to send along a picture of the electrical boxes I believe that are involved with the line changes. Are these the boxes that the wires should be switched?

Thanks

[HHIDan]

Originally Posted by gmarsha2

Attachment 113775

Thanks for the feedback. I have rechecked the info that I sent and yes the reference to the 15 amps refers to the circuit requirements for the refrigerator power and not the usage. The rewiring should have read "micro switching with the Refrigerator" connections. I am trying to send along a picture of the electrical boxes I believe that are involved with the line changes. Are these the boxes that the wires should be switched?

Thanks

Yes, the box on the right is the main panel and the smaller one on left is the inverter panel. On this inverter panel I see that you have two larger circuit breakers that can easily be switched to duals. So you can run both your refrigerator and microwave from the inverter when off the grid. It's what I do.

[JC2]

What is the breaker marked "APPL" in the inverter panel for? We have purchased a 1000w PSW inverter from donrowe.com to be used for the Haier 10.2 cu ft fridge we installed last March in our mh. We had the installers move the wire from the breaker marked "reefer"in the main box to the breaker marked "light" in the inverter panel if/when we need power to the fridge and don't run the genie when moving down the road. Make sense?

[HHIDan]

I am guessing/assuming this 1000 watt inverter is an additional inverter and you bought it to support the new refrigerator so why not plug the refrigerator directly into the new inverter and let the old/existing inverter continue supporting the existing inverter panel?

[JC2]

Originally Posted by HHIDan

I am guessing/assuming this 1000 watt inverter is an additional inverter and you bought it to support the new refrigerator so why not plug the refrigerator directly into the new inverter and let the old/existing inverter continue supporting the existing inverter panel?

My intention is to dedicate the "new" inverter for the Haier fridge only when I get around to installing it.

[HHIDan]

Then yes, moving the wire the way you did makes perfect sense!

[JLDHELMS]

gmfarsha2. I know this an old thread but wanted to give update on my Norcold conversion to electric refrigerator. I am four weeks into a winter trip, having traveled on the road for several days of this trip. I have had no problems with the refrigerator, the inverter or engine alternator keeping up with demand on the road. I am very pleased with this modification and have peace of mind that I am not carrying around a potential fire bomb in my refrigerator cabinet any more. Hope you were successful in your conversion and as happy as I am, Jim

[gmarsha2]

Thanks for the feed back Jim....glad to hear that your changeover is working as expected. We are on the road as well so the changes will not take place until we return home. When I get around to making the change I plan to take as many pictures as I can and post them for others. Did you take any pictures?

[gmarsha2]

The project has been completed and after a week my only regret is that I had not done it earlier. The one thing left to do is changing the wiring between the inverter and the main box. My first question is how do you open the inverter box? I have removed the screw but I am hesitant on prying the plastic box open. My second question refers to the reply from HHIDan he states that he sees that I have two larger circuit breakers that can be switched to duals. I need more information as to what is being said here. Does anyone have information that could assist me to changing refrigerator to the inverter circuit? Thanks

[JLDHELMS]

gmarsha2

That change is not made at the inverter. In my coach (05 MADP), there are two circuit breaker boxes in a cabinet in the potty room. Factory labeling showed the "Micro" on one breaker in one of the circuit breaker panels and "Refrig" on a breaker in the other circuit breaker panel box. It was a simple matter of turning off both breakers and carefully removing the wires from the breakers and swapping between the two panel boxes. (You may want to kill all the power in the coach and work by flashlight instead of working in those panels while hot. I am an electrician so working hot was not a problem.) In my coach, the "Micro" was supported by the inverter when not on Gen Set or shore power and that is how I wanted my Refrig to be supported. Losing the ability to use the Micro when on the road was an easy choice to make. I can still fire up the Gen Set over the road if I need the Micro and conversely, I wanted my Refrig supported regardless of what power source I was using. Returned from the Rio Grande Valley March 1 and had flawless 2 months of operation. Hope this helps.
Jim