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Old 06-26-2021, 11:29 AM   #1
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Oasis cabin heater on but, not selected

The Oasis cabin heater in my kitchen is hot however, I am running the air conditioners on all zones. I have seen this condition before when the dealer left the Oasis bypass switch on. I checked the switch and it is off. I also did a reset on the Oasis to no avail. The loop 1& 2 outlet hoses are hot and it seems as if fluid is moving through the hoses. Of course that makes sense as the cabin heater is hot.
All lights in the zone board are consistent with the current setup. Power light, summer loop, and domestic water lights are on. No other lights are on. Both AC elements are selected. I have noticed that the AC light does not go out very often as it normally does when system temperature is reached. I believe that is because the system is heating that cabin heater. I believe the kitchen is zone one. I don’t notice any heat around the other cabin fan outlets which I believe are on zone 2.

I recently had the entire distribution module replaced and, at first thought the technician may have crossed the inlet and outlet hoses. I checked that and it is impossible to cross the lines as they only have an inch or two to spare to go onto the distribution module fittings. The electrical connections were plug and play so, I don’t think that’s the problem. The only other thing I can think of is that Newmar plumbed backwards at the factory. As I stated before, I have never noticed this condition without the bypass switch being on. That doesn’t mean it hasn’t been that way since I purchased it new. The DW is the one that has always noticed it.

Any ideas?
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Old 06-26-2021, 12:15 PM   #2
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If the heat loop pumps were running you should have green lights on the zone board. I would open up the distribution box to see if the heat loop pumps are running. If they are not running, you may have a bad check valve. The summer loop pump can pull the fluid through the heat loop if the check valve is bad. I attached a sketch of the loops. Try tapping the check valves while you have the distribution box open.

ITR is very helpful, give them a call.
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Old 06-26-2021, 04:28 PM   #3
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Thanks, Paul.
Looking at your flow diagram it looks like it would be the check valve for loop 1. I just had everything opened up. Unfortunately, bad internet where I’m staying so I didn’t see the diagram until after everything was closed.
I will open up the panel again and tap that check valve. The loop pumps were not running so I think you are correct on a bad check valve. Sadly, just installed directly from ITR. I sure hope that is the solution because, taking that apart is absolutely no small chore. I do not feel any heat by the front dash and I have checked it several times. Only, the kitchen heat register is hot.
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Old 06-26-2021, 04:58 PM   #4
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I had this issue about a year ago and suspected the check valve. Before I got a chance to investigate as we were traveling at the time and it wasn't hot, it corrected itself with no intervention on my part. Suspect something may have gotten stuck in the valve, but just a guess on my part.
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Old 06-27-2021, 05:52 AM   #5
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Problem solved. Banged on the loop 1 check valve and it’s now working as intended.
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Old 11-29-2021, 04:50 AM   #6
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was gonna post asking about this kind of issue, then found this post, as the living room vent in our super star is venting hot air into the cab when its 70 degrees inside... gonna go get the hammer and check the check valve... is this a sign the check valve needs to be replaced??
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Old 11-29-2021, 05:27 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GUS2000 View Post
was gonna post asking about this kind of issue, then found this post, as the living room vent in our super star is venting hot air into the cab when its 70 degrees inside... gonna go get the hammer and check the check valve... is this a sign the check valve needs to be replaced??
ITR claims that a one time rap on the valve will usually solve the problem and, it usually won’t do it again. I had a summer loop pump check valve stick and it didn’t happen again after rapping it. Unfortunately, right now I have had to rap on my loop one check valve many times after using the furnace and , then shutting it down or changing to another mode as the valve stuck open causing heat to radiate from my kitchen radiator. Just using the furnace now so it is not an issue. Perhaps, continuing to use the furnace for awhile will help the valve work correctly. If not, then a new check valve may be in the future. Taking apart the distribution module is no easy task due to its location so, I am hoping it won’t go that route.
One note. The radiator only creates the heat because, hot fluid is constantly moving through it when the valve doesn’t close. The heater fan does not come on in this case because, the furnace mode is not selected.
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Old 11-29-2021, 12:49 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThunderRidge View Post
ITR claims that a one time rap on the valve will usually solve the problem and, it usually won’t do it again. I had a summer loop pump check valve stick and it didn’t happen again after rapping it. Unfortunately, right now I have had to rap on my loop one check valve many times after using the furnace and , then shutting it down or changing to another mode as the valve stuck open causing heat to radiate from my kitchen radiator. Just using the furnace now so it is not an issue. Perhaps, continuing to use the furnace for awhile will help the valve work correctly. If not, then a new check valve may be in the future. Taking apart the distribution module is no easy task due to its location so, I am hoping it won’t go that route.
One note. The radiator only creates the heat because, hot fluid is constantly moving through it when the valve doesn’t close. The heater fan does not come on in this case because, the furnace mode is not selected.

thanks!! can tell its "radiant" heat coming up from the floor vent end not forced air.. thank goodness!!!

thanks so much
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Old 11-29-2021, 01:00 PM   #9
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On my coach I can reach into the cabinet below the sink and the reach the radiator in the kitchen. It was very hot. That’s when I confirmed the loop one check valve was stuck.
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Old 12-01-2021, 06:50 AM   #10
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Mystery solved on our unit.. On our unit (Oasis Chinook) they had a batch of units that did not have a check valve installed.. ITR is shipping me the check valve for our unit to install...

I have attached the ITR Service Bulletin for this issue which lists the Serial Numbers that are potentially affected.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf MTB-224-10 NE, NE-S, Chinook Check Valve Addition[1].pdf (390.2 KB, 17 views)
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Old 12-02-2021, 08:25 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GUS2000 View Post
Mystery solved on our unit.. On our unit (Oasis Chinook) they had a batch of units that did not have a check valve installed.. ITR is shipping me the check valve for our unit to install...

I have attached the ITR Service Bulletin for this issue which lists the Serial Numbers that are potentially affected.

I learn new things every day!


My front registers pump out hot air if I turn on the roof vents with the windows closed. It's so reliable I can even turn the heat down and then heat the living room by using the kitchen vent :P
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