Oasis Problems

[slabman]

I used to be able to take a loooong shower without changing the position on the valve handle. now I need to open it up to a progressively hotter setting after only about 90 seconds.

I turned off one element and at a sink measured water temps of 120, dropping off rapidly after about the same amount of time. Then I reversed heating elements with the same results. Finally, with both elements operating, I got the same results...same temps.

So it would seem the shower mixing valve isn't suspect...wondering what else is? how about a problematic thermostat?

[PDR John]

Can you run the water till the element kick on, then go measure the voltage at the elements?

That way you'll know if they're both working. Did you double check all breakers?

[Stealth01]

Simple cross check on the electrical elements - check amperage draw with elements off. Turn "one" element on, run hot water until the element kicks in as indicated on the display and then check the amperage... Repeat with the second element.

Other considerations: what type weather are you parked in, warm - cold? Are you pulling water from shore, tank or both? Oasis recommends, in very cold weather, to use water from the tank rather then shore. Just a few thoughts...

[just tasha]

My Oasis combustion fan seems to be triggering a heater module fault (Burner On) that can generally be reset one time only. Auto restarts are aborted shortly after ignition. I have talked with Newmar and Oasis directly and ultimately left our Dutchstar 4018 with Holiday World in Katy, TX for nearly one month for troubleshooting. They could not duplicate. Disappointing. A green flashing combustion fan light is indicative of an open or short circuit.
Not sure if that is your problem but it's worth a look. In the meantime we'll be taking shorter showers and wondering why we bothered ordering the dishwasher that requires hot water we can't provide.

[Dutch Star Don]

Stealth01's suggestion came to my mind immediately. Are you drawing from some really cold water?

[spinn]

Tasha, slabman's issue is with the electric element heating side of his oasis and not using the burner.
Steve

[slabman]

Cold water? Those who know me would know I wouldn't be hanging around any place with cold weather/water, although it is a little cooler here in TX than FL. But I did this testing when it was 80 degrees....I purposely waited for warm weather to check this. I did test water temps with each element operating by itself, but it's probably worth checking amp draws from each. But my guess is the amps may vary with time after depleting the warm water and waiting for it to heat back up. If so, this would mean some kind of control malfunction, I'd think.

[Terry43]

Originally Posted by slabman

Cold water? Those who know me would know I wouldn't be hanging around any place with cold weather/water, although it is a little cooler here in TX than FL. But I did this testing when it was 80 degrees....I purposely waited for warm weather to check this. I did test water temps with each element operating by itself, but it's probably worth checking amp draws from each. But my guess is the amps may vary with time after depleting the warm water and waiting for it to heat back up. If so, this would mean some kind of control malfunction, I'd think.

Slabman,

If the heating element is on it will draw the same amount of amps regardless of water temp. Probably about 11 amps for each element.

Good luck....
Terry

["007"]

Slabman, you have read through Ducth Star Don's operational info in his QT's # 3 section.
There was a lot of discussion of the temp valve during winter summer months and heat from registers during warm months and effect on shower water temps.
This is the trouble manual he provided also.
Looking on page 9 & 10 the electric elements look quite large to heat stand alone heating of water during warm times not in winter.

[shaman52]

If the electrical heating elements are verified as to operation, I would focus on your tempering/mixing valve in your Oasis Distribution module. These valves may give your 120 degrees initially and not vary the internal spool valve position to maintain the the set 120 degrees as your demand continues. This is due to calcification. The valve guts require removal and soaking in vinegar to loosen mineral deposits and a brushing with a tooth brush. The valve parts have Teflon coating and a metal brush will remove the Teflon (not Good.). Alternative is to replace the entire valve.

Good luck!

[slabman]

This AM I did a bit more testing. Ambient water is at 70deg. I can get as much as 123deg water coming out of a faucet after the heating elements turn off and set temp. Is reached. Both elements are operating well, consuming 11-12 amps each leg. After a 3.5 min. Shower water temps only dropped to 114, so That would seem to be OK. As soon as hot water begins to flow from the system, both elements begin consuming power at 11amps each. During this shower today I did NOT notice a water temp drop off as I have on several occasions before.

So, this would indicate the Oasis is working as designed....wonder what tomorrow will bring?
BTW....I wouldn't think the mixing valve could me corroded up since this coach is only 3mos. Old and has not been subjected to water any harder than about 11-15 grains.

[spinn]

Glad it's working Slabman.

[nforus]

Glad you got it working but still gotta wonder why??
It would be interesting to see a comparison of the heat output from the electric elements versus the Diesel burner (expressed in BTU's) We have also found a little cooler water sometimes coming from the electric only side, so now we always run both electric and diesel during showers and have had no problems.

[Dutch Star Don]

Tell your wife to quit messing with you and stop running the dishwasher and washing machine while you're showering!