Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE OWNER'S CORNER FORUMS > Newmar Owner's Forum
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-09-2022, 09:50 AM   #1
Senior Member
 
NCC-1701A's Avatar


 
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 1,019
Oasis Pump Change in Pictures

There are lots of threads on Oasis pump changes which helped me a LOT in recently having to change my summer loop and zone 2 pumps. But one thing I did not understand going in was the hydronic fluid flow directions or how fluid flowed through the system to be sure I knew what to clamp off, etc. So I thought I would post a few pictures of my recent change out to illustrate to anyone who, like me, might be a little timid on attacking this project, to help alleviate the fears. It really is not too bad of a project, except for being jammed into a "cave" while you do the work!

I am not going into diagnosis of pump failures since that is covered already in many other posts.

The pictures are of a CH50M model Distribution Module with two zones.

This first picture is of my system with the hydronic fluid flow directions noted, which pumps are for which operation, and three backflow preventers to will keep fluid pushed from the pumps from draining back.

Those preventers help a LOT when changing the summer loop and zone 2 pumps as the outbound connector hose is VERY short and cannot really be clamped off, but it doesn't need to be because the backflow preventer will keep fluid from draining from above the pump. While the zone 1 pump also has the feature, the connecting hose is significantly longer, so to minimize a mess, I will clamp that one off if I ever need to change that pump. That said, you could change a pump without much fluid loss with only one tool to clamp off the hoses carrying fluid into the pump.



Before I started my project, I used a tip someone else posted to run the system for a while to get the hoses warm. This will greatly aid in getting hoses off the pump nipples and clamping the inbound hoses off to prevent fluid loss. Be careful though as the hydronic fluid is HOT. I ran the system, then let is cool a bit until I could feel the hoses were still warm, but not hot.

NOTE: Once heated, turn off the system and TURN OFF THE SALESMAN SWITCH TO CUT DC POWER TO THE UNIT. PUMPS CAN CONTINUE TO RUN IF THERE IS POWER.

Many posts talk about how expensive the ITR OEM pumps are and that they tend to fail rather rapidly. I followed the suggestion of others and ordered my pumps from US Solar for about 1/3 of the cost of the pumps from ITR.

https://www.ussolarpumps.com/catalog...culating-pump/

One note of interest. ITR uses two different pump part numbers. Not being too bright, mechanically, I failed to see the difference until I was into my project. On the ITR pumps, the summer loop pump has the outflow nipple on the opposite side from the way the zone pumps are. While this doesn't affect function, it does make the zone 2 pump replacement with the US Solar pump a bit more difficult as it moves the pump further into the box which creates interference with other hoses in the distribution box.

Here is a picture of two ITR pumps and the US Solar pump to show the nipple placement difference.

The top pump is the ITR Summer loop pump and the bottom pump is the US Solar pump. They are identical as to the outflow nipple position (the one sticking up) on the pump side.

The middle pump is the ITR zone pump. Note the outflow nipple is on the other side of the pump. The picture is as that pump would be mounted in the box picture shown above. The nipple position to the inboard side move the pump "out" toward the front of the distribution module and provides an amount of clearance from the other hoses in the box. Further pictures will show that I had to change the short piece of connecting hose on that pump to a little longer piece to allow it to be bent outward some to make clearance. I think this would be much less of an issue on the zone 1 pump and it's certainly not a deal-breaker issue from using the US Solar pumps all the way around.



Wiring:

I always love that Newmar nor many of its vendors attempt to keep a consistent wire color coding system. The 12V US Solar pump will have a red and black. The ITR distribution box has a number of colors that don't match the colors from their pumps. The connectors, however, were done so that you can't connect to the wrong wire. Just make sure you duplicate that when you install connectors on the US Solar pump, which only comes with a bare wire end since they have no idea what kind of connector may be needed. I took a picture in advance to make sure I put the connectors on correctly since I can't even remember why I got up from my easy chair to go to the kitchen anymore!

[/url]

I chose to just reuse the connectors already on the ITR pumps. I just clipped them off, stripped insulation, and used small wire nuts and an electrical tape covering to connect them to my US Solar Pumps.



Removing and reattaching pumps:

Removing the pumps with the hoses warm was really much easier than I thought it would be.

First I clamped off the incoming fluid hose. I happen to have a SIL who has every tool imaginable from his 20 year experience with diesel repair (and anything else that moves). I borrowed his hose pincher clamps. But if you have to buy them, low cost ones with enough functionality to do the job can be had.

I used a bunch of old rags to capture the very small amount of fluid that came out as I first removed the outflow nipple from the short hose that is attached to the backflow preventer. In my case a little side to side wiggling and it came right off. Then I pulled it off the inflow hose.





Backing out of the "cave" I was working in, it was a relief to my aching back to take the removed pump to my workbench to do the wiring connector work!

I then crawled back into the "cave" and reinstalled the hoses and connected the wiring. In my case, the hoses there still looked good, so I did not change hoses. Original clamps also used. One pump done!



The Zone Pumps are mounted to brackets but I was advised that for the US Solar pumps those could just be removed.

The zone 2 pump has screws through the side to hold the mounting bracket, as seen in the first pic below. The pump then has two screws with nylok nuts on them holding the pump to the bracket. I'll leave it up to you which order you want to do removal. I removed the pump from the bracket first (that back nylok was a treat to get out), then removed the bracket screws and pulled it out, then pulled out the pump (after clamping off the incoming line). There isn't a lot of room between the bottom of the bracket and that zone 1 pump so I wanted to get that out of the way to allow a bit more space to pull down the pump. Just the way I did it, not saying it was the best.



Note different wiring color....

Also note how that nipple position has the pump out a ways to provide clearance from other hoses for the inbound hose to this pump.





After giving my back another break and getting the wiring connectors installed on that pump, I crawled back into the "cave" and found out that the original short piece of hose would not allow installation of the US Solar pump as the inbound hose to the pump could not be bent around the other hoses and connect.

I removed that short piece and fortunately I had pre-purchased a small length of 1/2" ID Gates Green Stripe HD heater hose as a Just-in-Case I needed to replace any hose. I cut a piece a bit longer so it could provide some flexibility to bend the pump out and provide some clearance for the inbound hose. Back in the cave...new piece too long....back out of the cave to recut.

After a little finagling, the fit was there. The hose clamps were changed because the Gates hose was just a tad larger in OD than the original hose and no matter how hard I tried, even grinding down the little tab on the clamps, they would not fit on the gates hose.



Now...one potential issue is these hoses rubbing together and abrading. The picture doesn't have it, but I have since installed some heater hose protective loom to avoid future issues.

With the install done I fired the system back up and VIOLA! Zone 2 heat and hot water and best of all NO LEAKS! Yee-haw!!!!!

Hopefully my experiences with this project and the pictures will help anyone that wants to tackle this project on their own. The two pumps cost $165 vs what would have been $500 from ITR. Labor cost....some advil and a Mich Golden Light chaser for my back vs waiting six months for a service appointment in today's environment plus what would have probably been several hours of charged labor time from a shop. Net...a HUGE savings in the relatively easy DIY project.

Good Luck!
__________________
"Second star to the right and straight on 'til morning"
On the Mississippi in SE Minnesota
2013 Newmar Mountain Aire 4336
2016 Chevy Silverado 4x4
NCC-1701A is online now   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 05-09-2022, 11:18 AM   #2
"Formerly Diplomat Don"
 
Dutch Star Don's Avatar
 
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Moorpark, Ca.
Posts: 20,622
Good post, something that should have been done years ago. I'm very visual and it's nice to see all the pieces and their positions.
__________________
Don & Mary
2019 Newmar Dutch Star 4018 (Freightliner)
2019 Ford Raptor
Dutch Star Don is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2022, 11:19 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
USMCRET's Avatar
 
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,874
Awesome post!!
__________________
2021 DSDP 4326 Freightliner
2005 KSDP 3910 Spartan
USMCRET is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2022, 03:09 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: Texas
Posts: 107
I appreciate you taking the time to put all of this information together. Thank you!
__________________
Lynell & Butch
2019 Dutch Star 4328
2020 Traverse TOAD
DutchStarJez is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2022, 03:59 PM   #5
"Formerly Diplomat Don"
 
Dutch Star Don's Avatar
 
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Moorpark, Ca.
Posts: 20,622
Maybe "007" can move it to the "Stickies",
__________________
Don & Mary
2019 Newmar Dutch Star 4018 (Freightliner)
2019 Ford Raptor
Dutch Star Don is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2022, 04:08 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
jerry davis's Avatar
 
Alpine Owners Club
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Fremont, Ca
Posts: 1,298
Appreciate your time & effort posting this lesson. Wish I had known to warm up the system when I changed the summer loop pump a while back. Those hoses can be tough to remove.
__________________
Jerry & Judy, Fremont, California
2017 Dutch Star 4018
Freightliner, HWH Active Air
jerry davis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2022, 08:16 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
what next's Avatar
 
Newmar Owners Club
Fleetwood Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Northern IL
Posts: 566
Thanks for the post, I will be changing the zone 2 pump soon and I was wondering about that bracket.
__________________
2010 Dutch Star 4333
2009 Honda Accord- Brakemaster
what next is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2022, 12:09 PM   #8
Member
 
Wil_H's Avatar


 
Newmar Owners Club
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2021
Posts: 52
Terrific post. I have it bookmarked just in case. Thank you.
__________________
Wil, Donna, and Daisy
2020 Newmar Dutch Star 4081 (Freightliner)
2015 GMC Sierra Denali 2500 4x4
Wil_H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2022, 08:58 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
TWINCAMSAM's Avatar
 
Newmar Owners Club
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Yorktown
Posts: 432
CPT Kirk-I wish I had seen your post before I began my repair. I had to replace the loop 1 pump. I ordered 3 pumps from ITR. They have changed from my 2014 model. They are no longer bolted down, they float. Plus they are not damaged by running dry.

I bought these plastic hose pinching pliers but could not seal the hose which I cut for easier removal. I ordered metal pliers that did the trick. However I lost 1-2 quarts of fluid.

What is the best method for getting fluid back in and will I have trouble with air in the lines?
Thanks
__________________
Karen & Arthur
2014 Newmar MA 4369 Pulling our 2013 Ram 1500
TWINCAMSAM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2022, 08:30 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
NCC-1701A's Avatar


 
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 1,019
Quote:
Originally Posted by TWINCAMSAM View Post

...I lost 1-2 quarts of fluid.



What is the best method for getting fluid back in and will I have trouble with air in the lines?
Mrs. Kirk is captain. I'm just the navigator! ;-)

For just a quart or so, I would think that refilling through the overflow tank would do it. If there are small amounts of air, they should purge through the tank with the system running.

ITR recommends hydronic fluid change every three years, but an executive at Century told me it should be good for ten years unless one notices discoloration or something else shows a possible issue. With a coach built in 2012 and no maintenance records from the prior owner, I did a complete fluid change a year or so ago. ITR has a video to show that process and while "extreme" for just adding fluid, it does ensure full circulation through the system. Not what I would do for a relatively small add of fluid considering total system capacity, but just mentioning it as an option for large fluid losses.
__________________
"Second star to the right and straight on 'til morning"
On the Mississippi in SE Minnesota
2013 Newmar Mountain Aire 4336
2016 Chevy Silverado 4x4
NCC-1701A is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2022, 09:38 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
NCC-1701A's Avatar


 
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 1,019
I communicated with Mike Kehoe at US Solar about the Oasis system having two different pump part numbers with the outflow nipple side being the difference.

He said that they have seen quite a surge in sales of their Oasis replacement pump and they may be interested in adding a second version. He said he'd talk to engineering and accounting to see what they might be able to do for tooling up a new head.

He'll let me know what they decide and I'll pass the info on when received.
__________________
"Second star to the right and straight on 'til morning"
On the Mississippi in SE Minnesota
2013 Newmar Mountain Aire 4336
2016 Chevy Silverado 4x4
NCC-1701A is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2022, 08:24 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 2,428
Quote:
Originally Posted by NCC-1701A View Post
I communicated with Mike Kehoe at US Solar about the Oasis system having two different pump part numbers with the outflow nipple side being the difference.

He said that they have seen quite a surge in sales of their Oasis replacement pump and they may be interested in adding a second version. He said he'd talk to engineering and accounting to see what they might be able to do for tooling up a new head.

He'll let me know what they decide and I'll pass the info on when received.
What problem will the new head solve or improvement.
__________________
2019 Dutchstar 4369 Spartan. Full wall failure survivor.
Canuck53 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2022, 09:00 AM   #13
Senior Member
 
NCC-1701A's Avatar


 
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 1,019
Quote:
Originally Posted by Canuck53 View Post
What problem will the new head solve or improvement.
Canuck53, per my original post, I found that the ITR zone pump's nipple placement (opposite that of the summer loop pump) aids in installing those pumps in the limited confines of the Distribution Module. It also creates less stress and contact between hoses. There's a reason ITR has two pump part numbers. As I stated, not a deal killer to use the US Solar pumps all around, but it is a better installation, IMO, with ITRs two part number pump design.
__________________
"Second star to the right and straight on 'til morning"
On the Mississippi in SE Minnesota
2013 Newmar Mountain Aire 4336
2016 Chevy Silverado 4x4
NCC-1701A is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2022, 12:48 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
Newmar Owners Club
Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Lake McClure, CA
Posts: 1,372
Thanks for posting. I'm sure my day will come when I need to replace a pump.
__________________
2018 Dutch Star 4369 Spartan Chassis
2016 Jeep Cherokee, 1952 Willys CJ3A
10 fan is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
oasis, pump



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Question on Oasis Pump Change NCC-1701A Newmar Owner's Forum 10 05-06-2022 01:45 PM
Pictures .... Pictures..... zekethomas Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 5 03-21-2018 10:19 AM
Allison 3000 fluid change - amounts differ from change to change mhercus Allison Transmission Forum 7 06-04-2015 06:04 PM
F-53 Fuel Pump Change Pictures IRON WORM Ford Motorhome Chassis Forum 17 11-13-2010 10:00 AM
Pictures from My Pictures to Forum wagonmaster2 Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 8 02-12-2009 04:43 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:52 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.