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Old 09-30-2019, 08:50 AM   #1
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Oasis/Silverleaf fan question

Last night, we got into the mid-20s here for the first time and this morning the coach was 55 degrees inside, even with the heated floors set on 4. There was no heat coming out of the ceiling registers.

Apparently, when it got cold enough to shut down the heat pumps last night, the fans did not activate for Oasis. I checked Oasis and there are no indicator lights showing issues. We do have the burner on and are getting hot water just fine.

When I checked the Silverleaf Oasis control panel, the FAN setting was on AUTO. I moved it to FORCE HIGH and we started getting heat.

Is it necessary to run the fan in FORCE HIGH or FORCE LOW to get heat via OASIS? Or, do I have something set incorrectly...or, worse, a problem? We do have heat via the FORCE setting, so are at least staying warm now.

Please focus the comments on the Silverleaf Oasis control system as that is what we are working with here.

Thanks,

TJ
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Old 09-30-2019, 08:58 AM   #2
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Suggest calling Silverleaf or your dealer if they have a tech knowledgeable about Silverleaf. On my NA, NIRVC programmed the heat pumps to stay off at my request. Just use floor heat and Oasis. I suspect your programming is screwed up somehow.
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Old 09-30-2019, 11:54 AM   #3
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Go figure!

After letting the system run on the FORCED HIGH fan setting for a few minutes, I returned it to the AUTO setting...and, it is working again! No idea why, but we're glad to have heat.

I have noticed one other thing that I don't understand; the front (dash) fan is not blowing even though it is in the HIGH position. I tried LOW with the same result. Guess I need to start checking fuses.

TJ
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Old 09-30-2019, 12:29 PM   #4
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Siverleaf: heat setting in cold temps

RE: the question of Silverleaf settings and heat. We struggled with the same issue. The roof mounted heat pumps are not effective in lower temps, and in my assessment they are NOT a nice, quiet, comfortable heat!

Took us a while and took another Newmar owner to show us the way to bypass the overhead heat pumps and only get heat from the Oasis, via the convectors (what I informally call "baseboard heat" as opposed to the overhead roof air.


In Silverleaf:
Go to Features
Scroll down to Climate Configuration
In Climate Config, select Secondary Heat Management and set that for ONLY. If you allow auto, then the rooftops will act as the primary heat source. So I think you need to select Secondary ONLY.



Your rooftop units will still function for AC as required. But when you are calling for heat, warm air will blow out of the louvered convectors that are mounted in the walls near the floor. That warm air is generated from the electric elements in the Oasis. If it is really cold, will probably need to use your diesel burner to ensure sufficient warmth.


Once you have warm air blowing from the convectors, return to the dash. The toggle switch nearest the steering column (in our 2017 LA) is the FRONT FAN with 3 settings: HIGH, OFF and LOW. set it to High or low and you should have warm air blowing at floor level all along in front of the passenger seat.


Good luck! Hope this helps!
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Old 09-30-2019, 02:37 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MerBee View Post
RE: the question of Silverleaf settings and heat. We struggled with the same issue. The roof mounted heat pumps are not effective in lower temps, and in my assessment they are NOT a nice, quiet, comfortable heat!

Took us a while and took another Newmar owner to show us the way to bypass the overhead heat pumps and only get heat from the Oasis, via the convectors (what I informally call "baseboard heat" as opposed to the overhead roof air.


In Silverleaf:
Go to Features
Scroll down to Climate Configuration
In Climate Config, select Secondary Heat Management and set that for ONLY. If you allow auto, then the rooftops will act as the primary heat source. So I think you need to select Secondary ONLY.



Your rooftop units will still function for AC as required. But when you are calling for heat, warm air will blow out of the louvered convectors that are mounted in the walls near the floor. That warm air is generated from the electric elements in the Oasis. If it is really cold, will probably need to use your diesel burner to ensure sufficient warmth.


Once you have warm air blowing from the convectors, return to the dash. The toggle switch nearest the steering column (in our 2017 LA) is the FRONT FAN with 3 settings: HIGH, OFF and LOW. set it to High or low and you should have warm air blowing at floor level all along in front of the passenger seat.


Good luck! Hope this helps!
You were spot on! It was set to PRIMARY ONLY and I'm wondering if the heat pumps were trying to carry the load despite the low temps. I knew they were not supposed to work effectively below 40 degrees, but thought the changeover to Oasis was automatic at that temperature point.

When I changed the Secondary Heat Management option to "SECONDARY ONLY," the front fan came alive. There is also a "BOTH" setting, and maybe that is where it should be for auto changeover. I'll look into that down the road. Right now, we are enjoying a warm coach via Oasis!

Thanks for the information. I had searched the SilverLeaf and Oasis manuals, and the online forums, but did not come up with this information.

Again, thanks for the tip! You have upheld the noble reputation of the Newmar Forum Owners forum for providing helpful information.

TJ
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Old 09-30-2019, 06:12 PM   #6
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Jim

Glad you got it figured out, I know nothing about Silverleaf. Did you you get any snow with those cold temps?
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Old 09-30-2019, 06:35 PM   #7
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I don't have Silverleaf in my Ventana but from what you are saying it sounds similar in settings. So, the PDI guy told me to make sure all of the heat pumps were set to auto else the auto switch to the oasis would not happen when the temp dropped.
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Old 09-30-2019, 07:17 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWIP View Post
Jim

Glad you got it figured out, I know nothing about Silverleaf. Did you you get any snow with those cold temps?
Bill:

Amazingly, we just got a few flakes; not enough to whiten the ground. Just 50 miles northeast, they got 4 feet! Yikes. We dodged the snow bullet for sure.

Tonite's overnight temp is forecast to be 25 degrees. We are supposed to see a gradual warming over the next 3-4 days. With the Oasis/Silverleaf system system sorted out, we are quite comfortable. We've been running the Oasis system all day on just AC1 & AC2. Outside temps today were in the low 40s. I think I'll turn on the burner overnight, just in case.

Best to you and Lisa.

Jim aka TJ
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Old 09-30-2019, 07:23 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlkhorses View Post
I don't have Silverleaf in my Ventana but from what you are saying it sounds similar in settings. So, the PDI guy told me to make sure all of the heat pumps were set to auto else the auto switch to the oasis would not happen when the temp dropped.
I'll check the SilverLeaf configuration settings to see if there is a similar situation on our system.

Thanks.

TJ
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Old 10-11-2019, 02:57 PM   #10
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Oasis Silverleaf question

I wanted to share a link with instructions from Newgle:
https://newgle.newmarcorp.com/s/arti...-Configuration


We just left Nappanee after a week long service visit (all warranty). And while there I attended a Newgle class. And learned a couple of things!


I swear, I'd looked and looked and looked for this and never could find it. But it was there all along!



Hope this helps and hope y'all are toasty warm!
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Old 10-11-2019, 04:12 PM   #11
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Jim,


the secondary is for oasis and the front fan will work when secondary is selected. you can also turn up the floor heat all the way up to 10. I have been in hi 20s and had the coach in low60 with just the floor heat. much better and less noisy than even the oasis heater fans. it does take a bit to heat up and you have to adjust if the weather is expected to warmup. it is too bad they can't tie up the thermostat to the floor heat. it does work great otherwise.


if you have auto, the primary(roof air) will work to about 40 degree, then it should switch to oasis. if you have both, roof air and oasis will work till about 40, then below that just the oasis.
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Old 10-12-2019, 09:56 AM   #12
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TJ,
You were smart to question the “Both” setting!! If set to “Primary” ONLY the heart pumps will work... Until ~38F at which time they shut down! If set to Secondary” ONLY the OASIS will run to provide heat! When set to “Both” the heat pumps will operate until ~38F at which time the system will transfer over to Oasis. There may be times that both will operate as the system is transitioning. Also, when on Oasis, DO NOT FORGET to set the forward Oasis heat exchanger (in the dash) switch to “high or low” else you will not get Oasis heat in the front area of your Coach!!
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Old 10-12-2019, 11:54 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MerBee View Post
I wanted to share a link with instructions from Newgle:
https://newgle.newmarcorp.com/s/arti...-Configuration

We just left Nappanee after a week long service visit (all warranty). And while there I attended a Newgle class. And learned a couple of things!

I swear, I'd looked and looked and looked for this and never could find it. But it was there all along!

Hope this helps and hope y'all are toasty warm!
Excellent find! Thanks for sharing the link. It provides EXACTLY the information I was looking for. Finally figured it out by myself, but this document sure would have made things a lot easier.

As you did, I searched long and hard for the information contained in this document...to no avail. Don't know why I couldn't find it since it was "hiding in plain sight!" I have now downloaded it as a PDF and have it saved in my "Manuals" folder that resides on both my iPad and on the Cloud, so it can be accessed from virtually anywhere.

Thanks, again.

TJ
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Old 10-13-2019, 08:08 PM   #14
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All - don't have SL based system, have the CCC2 Thermostat, and oasis system with the 15BTU heat pumps on the roof. I had SL in previous coach, but it did not control heat or anything like that. The newer coach’s with S/L, those owners have lots to learn. If it seems to you the system is not acting like you think it should, and you have read the manual. It may need software (firmware) update. Most dealers will NOT know how to do this even if they say they do, I urge you to call your Newmar Point of Contract or Silverleaf directly, as they can help you with this. I believe it is something the customer can accomplish if you are somewhat computer literate, but no I don’t think you can do it with your phone, but again, its way different than the system I had in my previous coach. Software updates are free from Silverleaf and they will help you get it done. They are great to work with. The website is here: https://www.silverleafelectronics.com/ - they have phone support daily during their operating hours. Since I don’t have this system, there may be a SD Card, which can be used to update it, if that is true, SL can send you a new card, and walk you through this update process, and then assumed you would mail card back to them. I would ask how much to keep card if that fixes you issue, since “rebooting computers” sometimes gets them working again, essentially that is what you are doing by updating it, writing over the present update with the same update is like restoring it back to OEM. So reinstalling an update into unit would fix bugs maybe. FWIW-S/L is nothing more than a dedicated computer, since I was a computer technician in a previous life, I do know something about them, having built thousands of them, repaired thousands of them and recycled thousands of them.

FWIW-I urge you to have some kind of Surge Guard protection on your unit. I have the built in one, plus, before I plug in, I take the portable unit I bought and test the shore power plug. Why, the portable one is just as good as the built in one, but if the SP connection toasts it, I have saved my built in one, plus possibly saved my electrical system. I do lock the portable one to the pedestal whenever possible. I bought this one from Camping world because they were giving 50 dollar discounts to new orders plus another 15% off, which saved me almost 100 dollars. https://rvpower.southwire.com/produc...a-model-34951/ - trust me if you toast the S/L system, and it’s your fault, you had better have deep pockets, the separate modules which make this work are not cheap. SL is under no obligation to fix stupid. If you spent all this money on MH, please learn the proper and safe way to make it work.

2019 Ventana 3407 Operation of Dometic CCC2 thermostat is as follows-Manual available on Newgle.

For heating it is assumed either the electric element’s or diesel burner is on, or both if it’s really cold. We have not been in really cold weather, so have no experience on how well the AC elements will work down to what outside temp. FWIW-Old coach, kept bedroom temp set when heating at 58, new coach felt cold to us and it was set at 63. I suspect, but cannot prove, old coach was not calibrated correctly, and the new one is closer to real world environment. I know the Ventana is better built and better insulated than old unit, the bedroom does not get near as warm after a long day of traveling, the other one, would run you out of the bedroom from the engine heat.

1. If FURN is selected I have to have fan speed set to AUTO, or the heat pump fans will run at the specified setting (hi-med-lo) but will not put out heat. The front fan switch will work in this mode.

2. If HP Mode is selected, auto, hi, med, lo will operate only the heat pumps, no front fan operation.

3. Have not tried AUTO setting, since it might want to heat when I want it to cool etc. But again would need to read that section in manual, and play with how I want it setup to operate. Too much work at my old age, cool, heat, easy to figure out.

4. COOL - Fan speed is set to hi-med-lo because I want fan to run all the time, and compressor to cycle in or out as needed, less wear and tear on unit and the start run capacitor. And if the parks electrical is being taxed because of hot weather, this taxes it a little bit less. FWIW-Never let A/C or HP's operate at less than 107 AC Volts, you can damage the units.

We have not programed any cycles or setup any times for the system to operate. It bugs me this thermostat is not backlit all the time, only when a button is pushed. The inside temp button works but it reads the front zone closest to where it’s located.

OFF- Yep turns the whole thing off, and everything quits running. I turn it off when traveling between spots, since I have dash heat. However prior to turning it off, individual units, i.e., HP/FURN/COOL is off as well, so I don’t cause it to quit in the middle of some cycle. If it is that hot/cold outside I need to run this, then the genset needs to be on, Pain in posterior for all that. Dash a/c – heat works just fine.
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