PCS Controller Failure; GFCI Fault? Floor Heater Issue?
Problem: Recently I have been having trouble with my front floor heat, and it was suggested to check the GFCI in the half bath. It looked basically fine with no fault evident, but when i tested the unit, a big spark behind the outlet occurred and then the breaker for that line and the main 50 amp breaker in the half bath as well as the park's power pedestal 50 amp breaker blew. Obviously this wasn't good, and i figured replacement of the GCFI was in order. What I didn't appreciate was the resulting collateral damage.
Diagnosis: Once all of the breakers were restored, and the various devices onboard the coach restarted, I noticed the front and mid AC units were not working. Inspection of the PCS MONITOR up front read that we were pulling 96 (yes 96!) amps on L1 and causing essentially all PCS controlled devices to be shut down to compensate. After reading on the the forum herein, I discovered that the PCS BOARD (top section of the main power panel in the half bath) had likely been fried by the apparent short caused by the likely faulty GCFI. Piecing together other threads I learned that there is one 7.5A 12V fuse in the half bath 12v fuse panel that controls the MONITOR up front, and if one pulls that fuse, it disables the MONITOR and allows one to 'limp' home. This is a misnomer, because disabling the PCS controller basically is a blast to the past wherein one needs to monitor their own power consumption manually - fairly easy to do for a week or two.
FIX: First and foremost we replaced the GCFI. No sense in taking chances despite the apparent now normal operation of the unit since the short. Ordered a new board from PCS which only took a couple of days, and then replaced this unit. Not an easy job due to the number of wires you have to keep track of, but manageable. Don't forget to this with ALL power off, and note that the bottom segments in the main panel are independently energized by the inverter. One of the keys is unscrewing the main panel and pulling out a bit to get to the wires in back of the board - thanks to another member of IRV2. Upon replacement of the 7.5A 12V fuse, everything returned to normal - except I still don't have front floor heat. Any ideas?
This picture is of the new board before and after installation with my wiring organization tip. (Finally can justify the multicolor selection of electrical tape.)
Phil and Laura (and Sam too!)
2017 DSDP 4369 on Spartan K2
2017 Unltd Rhino Rubi Recon Toad