Potable Water Pump Issue

[zippinbye]

I thought to look at the "sticky" section and do a word search before throwing this query to the crowd, but no luck.

The RV in my sig has been connected to shore power and household water for a long time. No freeze issues, but after disconnecting and toping off the water tank for a trip, the demand pump is not coming on. It has two control switches, one in the lavatory with zero indication, and another on the master systems control panel, which has a power-on indicator (that light illuminates when "on" is selected, but there's no pressure or pump noise).

A quick check of fuses does not show any issues, and the 12V system is a-ok. Would that indicator light suggest power should be (theoretically) delivered to the pump? If that's the case, I guess the possibilities are 1) broken power wire, 2) poor ground, 3) pressure switch defect, or 4) pump fried. The last unlikely, as we did not allow it to run dry or for a lengthy cycle. It is probably the original, so on the order of 17+ years old - death would not be premature.

I guess it's time to find the pump itself, but our manuals are boxed in storage as we remodel the house. Any idea where Newmar puts them on a Spartan chassis?

When I do find it, check for voltage and ground, continuity across the pressure switch, whack the pump case with a fist or mallet, or perhaps separate the motor from pump and check for hand rotation?

Any other ideas?

TIA

[jacwjames]

Multiple switch usually requires some sort of latching device/relay that actually turns the pump on. There may be a fuse or an additional relay after the latching device (that's what I have). The latching device could be anywhere or right next to the pump.

If you can find the pump I'd check for fuses, relay, and latching device near it.

[zippinbye]

The mods moved this from general motorhome discussion to here, Newmar Owners Forum - which is probably a good thing.

Anyhow, since the original post, I have searched all the under cabinet space inside the coach, trying to find the pump. No luck. I mentioned checking fuses. I must admit this was a cursorary affair, at 3 different 12V power distribution panels - just scanned fuses or a burnt appearance. The 2 in my main power bay include numerous relays and are pretty well-labeled, but do not seem to show anything to do with water. The interior 12V panel next to the main AC panel (in a lavatory cabinet) is mostly labeled, has no relays and is pretty much just for interior lighting and other low-draw features.

I should add this about the 2 different water pump on/off switches; neither overrides the other ... both "off" means no pump function, one or the other in opposing positions and the pump should be on, also true with both switches "on." I don't think the on indicator illuminates when the bathroom switch is turned on. It only responds to the adjacent switch on the quantity indicator & systems control panel. Like I mentioned earlier, that light currently illuminates as it should based on switch position. Which leads me to think power is heading toward the pump from there and only a pump-adjacent fuse or relay could be the culprit, if not a broken wire.

So at this point, the biggest help would be another Dutch Star owner suggesting the pump location. TY

[10 fan]

It's probably in the wet bay. Mine was mounted on the side wall part way up and hidden.

[Dutch Star Don]

My guess........The pump is in the wet bay. When you find it, attach a wire to a good ground in the wet bay and then attach the same wire to the ground wire of the pump. If the pump comes on the latching relay is bad and will be within a foot or so of the pump, follow the wires.

This is what the latching relays looks like and is available on Amazon for about $40.00.

[153stars]

It's not uncommon to also use the inline fuse that comes with most pumps. So could be double fused.
Testing the relay might be tricky . I'm pretty sure it breaks and breaks ground instead of power on switches side.
Test the power at the pump.
If your in need now, you may be able run a temporary power wire to pump. It has pressure switch. Just make sure you have /use a fuse. An ATC/ATO blade automotive fuse blades fit perfectly in Staycon 1/4" female spade connector.

[Dutch Star Don]

The latching relays interrupt the ground. That's why you run a ground wire straight to the pump. If the pump turns on the relay is bad. This is typically the issue the majority of the time.

[zippinbye]

Thanks to everybody that offered suggestions - I think I have plenty to work with. Plenty, except for time. I had to leave on a work trip; returning home late next week. I will dig into the wet bay when I can. Expect a report back once I have it figured out.