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jillie · 01-30-2013, 10:28 AM

Finally got time to take the PT apart again. Removed the cover and found the metal box.

Removed the screw that was holding the box. It was already loose which was what caused me trouble trying to look through the hole on the box and seeing the reset button.

Finally, under the box I found the red reset button, clearly labeled RESET. Pushed that. It went in slightly, then came back out without any clear click or indication that anything happened.

I've put everything back together and have turned on the juice. Waiting to see now if we get any hot water on the electric side. (Propane side still makes a racket. Hoping it holds out a bit longer.)

Hoping the photos help anyone else needing to do this.

jillie · 01-30-2013, 11:52 AM

Hour and a half and still no hot water. Guess the reset didn't fix it. Back to propane and the noise. This may take a trip to the dealer sooner than we wanted in order to avoid the cold showers.

lass · 01-30-2013, 04:37 PM

Jillie
It went in slightly, then came back out without any clear click or indication that anything happened.

As you already found out, if the reset button kicks back, it did not reset and you have some sort of an electrical problem. While it is cumbersome, I would check fuses first and than see if any bare wires may also be in contact with one another. Do you have a volt meter to check the incoming power?

You probable have a Suburban hot water tank, call then direct, they helped me with my tank.

Terry43 · 01-30-2013, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jillie

Finally got time to take the PT apart again. Removed the cover and found the metal box.

Removed the screw that was holding the box. It was already loose which was what caused me trouble trying to look through the hole on the box and seeing the reset button.

Finally, under the box I found the red reset button, clearly labeled RESET. Pushed that. It went in slightly, then came back out without any clear click or indication that anything happened.

I've put everything back together and have turned on the juice. Waiting to see now if we get any hot water on the electric side. (Propane side still makes a racket. Hoping it holds out a bit longer.)

Hoping the photos help anyone else needing to do this.

Jillie,

If you have a volt/ohm meter take one of the contacts off the heating element and check to see if you have continuity if not then you have a burned out element. Be sure to unplug power before checking.

Terry

lass · 01-30-2013, 04:45 PM

Should have added, if it is a Suburban, here is their phone number.
423-775-2131

newmar10 · 01-30-2013, 05:12 PM

you either need a new hiigh lmit reset or your heating element is bad. it should reset when not plugged in and then fault after you turn it back on

wa8yxm · 01-30-2013, 06:04 PM

You pushed the reset and did not hear a click.

There are two kinds of reset buttons, one is a switch that resets the software on the control computer (Control board, Everything is a computer these days) the other is a circuit breaker.

On a circuit breaker no click means no reset. May click when you push, when you release or both. But even if there is a dead short on the lead it will click.

doublechevy · 01-30-2013, 06:19 PM

The reset you show is the high temp safety, it may require a firm push to reset and you should hear a audible click you should use a voltmeter to check for power from ground to terminal screw on the line side and on the load side after resetting. if you have power on the load side and still no hot water chances are the element is bad you should also check if you have 120 volts at the element before you condemn the element.

jillie · 01-30-2013, 07:10 PM

We don't have a hot water tank as such; it's a PrecisionTemp heating system.

I'll check the fuses if I can figure out where to look. We received no manual for this system when we bought the coach. Any ideas where I should look first, either for the fuses or directions on how to find them?

"007" · 01-30-2013, 07:41 PM

jillie you can download the insulation and service manual on this link, UNDER DOWNLOAD.
If this doesn't help what is model of your PT.

newmar10 · 01-31-2013, 05:57 PM

It is a dedicated 110 fuse in that box. Should be marked

jillie · 01-31-2013, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by newmar10

It is a dedicated 110 fuse in that box. Should be marked

By 'box' do you mean the whole heater box or just the metal box shown in the photo?

Also, reading the manual from the link supplied by 007, the troubleshooting pages mention a green LED and red service codes. Where would I see those?

EngineerMike · 01-31-2013, 08:02 PM

Reset (photo#3) has two wires w/two bare screw terminals. These are usually dumb gadgets. If the thing resets the two terminal should have same voltage, and should register zero ohms across them.

I have a high limit switch in my HydroHot, it does not audibly click when resetting. Its not the same type, but I mention it cuz the click isn't always a positive indicator.

newmar10 · 02-01-2013, 08:28 AM

The service coads are on the circuit board that is to the left of te reset. It will flash green only on gas mode when the unit calls for heat.It will flash red for some other problems. Just a note the unit does not have to be turned on for the electric side to work The service coads are totally independent of the electric side so it wont help you trouble shoot that. The power i was talking about is the breaker panel in side the coach the feeds the plug for your unit