Community Forums

brobox · 12-16-2018, 05:13 AM

Here is the trouble shooting section for that model toilet. https://www.dometic.com/en-us/us/sup...h-8740-_-25429

Here were several fixes others used on the Entegra Theford Toilets with that problem. http://www.irv2.com/forums/f278/toil...sh-344333.html
Hope it's working this moring.

hugh37 · 12-16-2018, 06:50 AM

Old-Biscuit...sorry for delay. No luck with pressing/holding the buttons.
Today will have chance to go to my black box (control module?) and
perform the recommended, expecting that to do the job in getting me
"flushing" again! Appreciate ALL the responses...special thanks for the
photos. Can't imagine not having this forum. Larry

hugh37 · 12-16-2018, 02:19 PM

Had the time today to remove my pegboard panel, where my tanks are,
and right away spotted the black box (control module) hanging in front of
the black tank. On top of the tank were the two small white wires leading
to the "full" sensor. I first tapped lightly on the sensor, then carefully
jiggled the two wires. Next, I went inside to check the RED light, hoping it no longer was lit. Sure enough it was OUT, with only the GREEN light showing! And, I never heard the flushings sound so GOOD. Two hours later all was still working well, so I tackled the "labor intensive" job of putting things back together. At this moment I'm sitting back for a much-deserved rest! Want to thank all you you who offerred your thoughts and expertise. Another "fix" behind me (fingers crossed). Larry

TJ · 12-16-2018, 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hugh37

Had the time today to remove my pegboard panel, where my tanks are,
and right away spotted the black box (control module) hanging in front of
the black tank. On top of the tank were the two small white wires leading
to the "full" sensor. I first tapped lightly on the sensor, then carefully
jiggled the two wires. Next, I went inside to check the RED light, hoping it no longer was lit. Sure enough it was OUT, with only the GREEN light showing! And, I never heard the flushings sound so GOOD. Two hours later all was still working well, so I tackled the "labor intensive" job of putting things back together. At this moment I'm sitting back for a much-deserved rest! Want to thank all you you who offerred your thoughts and expertise. Another "fix" behind me (fingers crossed). Larry

Glad you got the problem resolved.

Sorry I didn't get back to you earlier on the "salesman switch" vs battery disconnect. I was out of town at a holiday get-together with the family and just got home. Yes, the "salesman switch" I referred to and the "battery disconnect" are one and the same.

TJ

tnedator · 12-16-2018, 07:20 PM

I know adding a switch has been mentioned. What kind of switch exactly could be added? I was thinking for the half bath, could actually mount the switch through the peg board so the switch is on door side of the peg board. Not sure if I would also add one in the rear bath.

I like the idea of the switch, so if I didn't notice the black was nearing full, the yellow would be a warning, but I would like a quick way to disable if my sensor goes crazy.

Dutch Star Don · 12-16-2018, 07:56 PM

"tnedator".....The problem "hugh37" had, was his sensor at the top of the tank was stuck. In that situation, a switch on the sensor would have gotten him through until he could fix it. In his case, both toilets were locked out because of the sensor malfunction.

The other issue is when your toilets shut down because the tank is actually full. I added a switch to the black box that allowed me to turn the red light off, on the half bath toilet, and still be able to flush it. I tested once and found I could get five more flushes before the black tank was actually full.

The black box is usually just dangling behind the pegboard wall. I drilled a hole in the cover of the black box added a small switch and then mounted the black box on the exterior of the pegboard wall at the top. I eventually left the switch off, (red light turned off) and just depended on my wife telling me when the rear bath light was on.

capnqball · 12-16-2018, 11:35 PM

I'm another that installed a switch and remounted the black box on the pegboard for the occasion that the red light comes on in the middle of the night and the DW still needs to use the facilities. I don't mind going out and flipping the switch during the night as that sure beats dumping the tanks. Also I just switched the half bath, leaving the main rear bath toilet as standard oem.

tnedator · 12-17-2018, 06:26 AM

Don/Ron,

I'm handy enough (just barely) to get behind the peg board, cut the wire, strip it and add a switch, but...

I haven't done this type of stuff often, and I'm not familiar with what type of switch works. Do I need something like this, a 12v switch with two terminals on the back (I know some have three).

I know there are other styles, like a rocker instead, but the big thing I'm wondering if a 12v switch (toggle or rocker) with two blade type connectors is what I need, then cut the wire (extend if needed), put corresponding connectors on each end and then connect to switch.

capnqball · 12-17-2018, 10:03 AM

Yessir, that switch will work just fine. All you're doing is interrupting the flow, but don't use a momentary switch. That size switch might fit in the cover or in the side of the black box, but I don't remember how much room there is in the box. Verify clearance before drilling of course. Happy trails.

Dutch Star Don · 12-17-2018, 10:17 AM

You don't need a switch that big, especially if you're going to attach it to the black box. This one is much better. https://www.amazon.com/Cambridge-Tog...P9MA5H3YC7SKC1

If for some reason you can't get the black box to an accessible area, buy the bigger switch noted in "tnedator" post, add some wire, connect it to the black box and then run the switch out to the pegboard wall. You could even install it right through the pegboard and then put a label on the pegboard wall.

tnedator · 12-17-2018, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don

You don't need a switch that big, especially if you're going to attach it to the black box. This one is much better. https://www.amazon.com/Cambridge-Tog...P9MA5H3YC7SKC1

If for some reason you can't get the black box to an accessible area, buy the bigger switch noted in "tnedator" post, add some wire, connect it to the black box and then run the switch out to the pegboard wall. You could even install it right through the pegboard and then put a label on the pegboard wall.

That was my thought, install it through the pegboard, so that it could be toggled without removing the pegboard.

hugh37 · 12-18-2018, 08:52 AM

Thanks, Don...your suggestion to install a toggle switch is well received. And, the better position for it is to the pegboard panel, on the outside. Couldn't be more handy, IMO. Larry

hugh37 · 12-28-2018, 03:02 PM

Just today had a chance to install the toggle switch as talked about in this
thread. Ordered online, it's 2-position, 12vdc, 10A. I cut the red wire running to the black control box (cut on outside of box), stripped the two ends and installed the toggle switch. Obviously the wrong wire?, as No POWER to the toilet flush switch and No green light, NO flush. The only other red (or pink) wire was strictly within the box, but one end went to nothing. I have no idea why it didn't work, with the toggle in either up or down position. I ended by reconnecting the red wire, giving me back my green light and flush. Did I not cut the correct wire? Is the toggle switch too little amperage? Thanks for your thoughts/expertise. Larry

hamgva · 12-28-2018, 03:28 PM

My 19 Dutch Star actually showed the black tank as full when it was thoroughly flushed and empty. Called the service guys an Newmar and they emailed me me a step-by-step way to reset the measure bars to empty when the tank is empty. It worked. Not sure how it got out of kilter in the first place though. Has been working just fine since then.