Rear jacks won't retract

[harvey59]

I’ve had the same problem with my jacks. Tried WD-40, silicone, didn’t work. Replaced some. Best result was wiping with a good dose of dawn detergent. The jack went up very quickly after that and all the way up. I extend the jack to get it lubricated higher up before retracting. When I was at the plant in Moscow, Iowa, they told me I should raise and lower the jacks monthly if parked for long periods of time.

[Cdburrow]

I have a small 2 ton trolley jack from Harbor Freight that I simply roll under the slow jack and push it up easily. Much easier than trying to pry it up with a 2x4. I have the jack for changing a tire on ourToad or tow dolly but it works great for this other purpose as well. When they start getting slow it is usually time for WD-40 treatment again as others have pointed out

[GORD CURRIE]

More than likely you are low on hydraulic oil or you have bent your jacks which in most cases would leak oil. The other thing could be dirt or twigs or branches sitting ontop of your pads that are affecting the sensors that tell the control center the jacks are up when they are not. Of course a walk around and visual inspection you will be able to see how clean your jack pads are.

[Monkey Run]

Originally Posted by LeslieGary

I had issues with our right rear jack. I got an 8 foot 2x4 (that I still keep in the coach) and “assisted” that jack pad during store cycle. I had the system checked last time at the Newmar factory and have not had an issue since.

I know you used a 4’ crowbar, but 8’ will give you better leverage...and save your lower back a bit as well.

This is exactly what I do and also use the lubricant trick on the springs and cylinders.

[KenCookston]

I have a one recalcitrant jack on my class A. Haven’t tried the WD40 solution yet. I find using a straight blade shovel with a fiberglass handle works well to help retract the jack and as a bonus, can be used to manage wood in the campfire.

[Fourwinds93]

Originally Posted by JMonroe

The left rear jack has been slow to retract this entire trip and this morning neither rear jack would fully retract. Came within 3" of full up and stayed there. Banging on the base of the jack didn't help, trying to lift it with a 4' crowbar didn't work. They were clearly up more than far enough for safety but not enough to keep the jacks down alarm off. OK, there's probably a fuse for that alarm. There is! Clearly marked, pulled the "jacks down alarm" fuse. Made no difference, alarm still blaring.

Left the campground with the alarm sounding, I'm not limber enough to get under the dash to find it, not having the slightest idea where to look. About 45 minutes down the road I pulled into a rest area, shut down and hit the stow button again. Both jacks immediately came up enough to shut the alarm off, although they both were still down a couple of inches and still are.

No one in service department of our dealer this morning that could help and the voice mailbox for the "emergency service contact" at Newmar was full, unable to leave a message.

Right now we're set up at the FMCA RV park in Cincinnati, just a bit off level as I didn't want to put the rear jacks down.

Anyone have this issue, have an idea what's going on? I regularly wipe the jacks down with silicone spray so I wouldn't think road debris would be the issue.

For what it it's worth, the jacks on our American Coach were powered in both directions, no springs. Never had a problem with them.

Here is my two bits worth. My jacks do have return spring and I also have had issues with one or two not going all the way up. We have had the problem since we bought it in August of last year. I have found when the issue does arise and the lights on the controller are off or not I will hit the auto store button and then use a pry bar or a other long board and then pry up on the jack and this usually works but you some time have to hit the auto store button or else you are working against the pressure of the hydraulics. Hope this helps.

[JFXG]

Perhaps a little late, but.....
1). In my ‘02 Dutch I have a removable panel on the dash just above the instrument area. Inside I can access several warning buzzers / horns, and kill them simply by pulling a contact.

2). I read the following tip some years ago and have had no further trouble.
Traditional WD-40 is a fine solvent but undesirable as an exposed lubricant, as it leaves an oily surface that catches dust. Silicone spray is a dry lubricant of excellent quality, but a poor solvent. It will not even wipe itself off, but it does dry to a thin coating which does not get washed away at the next spraying. It just builds up. As thin as each silicone coating is, it will, after a number of treatments, build up enough to provide some resistance to sliding through the shaft seals on the MH jacks.
Solution: at each application, spray with WD-40 and wipe it down. This will remove all prior coatings. Now spray a new coating of silicone and leave it.
Done.

[maggiemarie]

Originally Posted by LeslieGary

I had issues with our right rear jack. I got an 8 foot 2x4 (that I still keep in the coach) and “assisted” that jack pad during store cycle. I had the system checked last time at the Newmar factory and have not had an issue since.

I know you used a 4’ crowbar, but 8’ will give you better leverage...and save your lower back a bit as well.

I have a 04 Newmar 3 out of 4 jacks wouldnt store tried every thing refused to believe the jacks were bad. but they were. replaced them myself they work fine now. keep in mind the rear jacks are the further ones from the pump and store last

[MIKEBOUNDS]

We have a 99 Dutch Star. I carried an official HWH 2x4 for years. The driver side front jack was slow for ten years. It was temperature sensitive. Below 50 degrees, no problem. Finally sent all four jacks to HWH.

They rebuilt all four jacks. ($450. Including return shipping) . The parts list had 4 of everything.
Now they retract with incredible speed.

Mike Bounds

[fleatools]

A lot of times the Jack seal gets "Swelled" and creates a sticky jack. But before you replace the jack, others have mentioned use silicone or WD-40 each time you deploy it. Also you could loosen the hydraulic hose, (after you hit the store button) and see if that causes the jack to come up quicker, this checks for a kink in the line. Caution this will cause some oil to leak so bring paper towels. If it is truely a jack that is somewhat stuck you need to replace it or live with the crowbar method. I have personally done two replacements myself. I think they were ~$250 per jack.

[Mudstream]

I have a different method that's been successfully used on three different leveling systems. I use a washing wand with an angle adapter and a small orifice that makes a fan-shaped spray. I spray the polished rods with water and direct the spray into the seal wipers to remove the stuff that's been wiped off by the seal. (Be careful when spraying upwards under the coach, just let the seal catch all the spray.) I don't have to crawl underneath, just kneel beside each leveler and direct the spray.

No follow-up lubricant. Just retract the levelers and go.

This works particularly well in dusty/windy locations where dust accumulates on every exposed surface, especially one with a lubricant film on it.

[Geo19Irv]

Originally Posted by harvey59

I’ve had the same problem with my jacks. Tried WD-40, silicone, didn’t work. Replaced some. Best result was wiping with a good dose of dawn detergent. The jack went up very quickly after that and all the way up. I extend the jack to get it lubricated higher up before retracting. When I was at the plant in Moscow, Iowa, they told me I should raise and lower the jacks monthly if parked for long periods of time.

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At the HWH factory in Iowa the service man said DO NOT use silicone, WD49 ok but the best is the dish detergent.