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Old 04-25-2020, 06:23 AM   #1
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Rear Kitchen grey tank issue

So, while winterizing last year I came across a problem with my rear kitchen grey tank. The 3" pipe that hangs down for the kitchen had broken off the flange of the tank. The pipe didn't look any different, but it obviously wasn't attached.

I had hoped for a simple (oops, we forgot to glue) fix for this issue. Alas the problem was more involved. The break was on the tank itself. I dismantled the area and found that replacing the tank is problematic at best. The pipe insertion for drain and vent is not accessible from underneath. I can get close with an access port near where the connection is made, but while it feels like a rubber slide in connection, it won't come off.

So, I contacted my rep at Newmar. He gave me design drawings and recommends I take it to the dealer for repair. I'm not keen on that for a few reasons. I don't use that kitchen unless I'm outside grilling. I never liked the design of the drain pipe (they could have routed the drain to the wet bay and kept a large pipe from possible speed bump damage).

I see where I can open an access port under the kitchen sink in that kitchen and get access to the pipe area. I'm considering installing a new tank with an adapted output to use a 1.5" pipe that I'd route to the wet bay. Not sure how I'd handle the drain valve. Ball valve on the pipe in the wet bay?? I don't know that I need the Valterra bayonet, they do make a Y, but I don't want to modify the main drain system if I can avoid it.

Has anyone worked on the rear kitchen plumbing? Pictures would be helpful.

No rush, though, Even if it wasn't COVID-19 keeping me from travelling, the fact that we don't use that feature is the biggest non-starter for the project. I do like to keep things functional though.
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Old 04-25-2020, 06:43 AM   #2
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Had a buddy with a 2016 Thor Challenger coach. He had a 3" pipe from the bathroom break off right at the top of the tank. He was having water leaking under his coach when his gray was 3/4 full plus getting some odors. The only way we figured it out was with an inspection camera.

He had it fixed under an extended warranty plan but it was involved. They had to remove an inside wall to get at the tank for replacement. In his case it certainly wasn't a DIY project.
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Old 04-25-2020, 06:48 AM   #3
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DIY

I know I'm in for a bit of a hassle. What I don't want is to have to tear the coach apart to make the repair. I can see a way where there's no need to pull walls apart, which is one of the reasons I'm considering doing this on my own.

I want to avoid what I see as the potential dealer methods for fix. Removing walls or end caps isn't what I want to happen. I'll put a 5 gallon tank under the sink and empty it each time before I let them do that.
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Old 04-25-2020, 08:06 AM   #4
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Could you use some type of sealer, like Gorilla Glue, or pipe sealer, etc., & seal it? Would be a lot easier than having to tear it apart to replace it!
Just a thought!

Good Luck!
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Old 04-25-2020, 08:34 AM   #5
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I had to repair a gray tank just recently on my son's travel trailer. It broke right at the exit, from a hard hit.

We had a lot of scrap abs plastic. I had him use a drill bit and make a lot of chunk material, enough to fill a quart size jar.

I then took some cans of the pvc/abs glue and mixed in the chunks until I had a thick paste, and used that to secure the new exit flange. It formed a very hard bond when done and has worked well for 6 months now, without a drop.

There was some very large angled tears, and I used larger peices of abs to cover those, and applied the same paste.
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Old 04-25-2020, 10:23 AM   #6
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If I do repair instead of replace, I'll probably have to make a new exit for the drain. Where the break is takes out much of what I can attach to on the tank. The question is, what's the labor to do a repair versus a replace? Hours and hours of work and curing time to repair the tank and I can't guarantee the result.

Believe me, if it weren't so broken, I'd do it in a heartbeat.

But I'm no fan of the plastic the tank they put in there uses. So I may look for alternate tank materials anyway. Something a bit more forgiving. The primary black and grey tanks use a less brittle plastic, but appear to be custom built for the rig. Those I have some confidence in staying together.

I did own a trailer for 12 years, the tanks on that were the same brittle material, and held up, but the drains were properly supported to keep the tank from being stressed.

A lot to consider.
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