Rebuilding Reelcraft water hose reel and replacing hose - which hose to use?

[Doug427]

My Newmar supplied original equipment Reelcraft water hose reel is sticking. It sometimes doesn't catch so it won't stay out and continually tries to retract, and the base is all corroded as well. I bought a new base from Reelcraft and I'm going to tear the whole thing apart, clean and lube, etc, and rebuild the reel. A new reel is well over $500 while the base was only about $75, so it's worth giving the rebuild a shot. Of course I'll replace the hose while I'm at it. Have any of you done this before?

Not much is available in the way of instructions, so I guess I'll just pull it apart and wing it so to speak. If any of you have done this and you have any tips or info on the process, please forward them along.

One thing I'm confused about is that Reelcraft refers to 1/2" I.D. hose in the description of the reel. However, all the hoses I see on line for replacement are 5/8". Am I missing something here? I'm sure some of you Newmar guys have replaced the hose on your Newmar supplied Reelcraft reel, what did you use for a hose? I searched on line for hose recommendations. The blue thick walled Camco hose is always top rated, but remarks always say it's somewhat stiff and I'm concerned it might not reel up very well.

If any of you guys have any input I'd sure appreciate hearing it. I haven't gotten the reel out yet and I'd like to pre-order the hose to have on hand so that I can get started when I get the reel out. The whole what hose and what diameter issue keeps me from ordering at this point. I'd appreciate any info you guys can pass along.



MODS - I'd appreciate you leaving this in the Newmar forum, as it deals mostly with the specific reel that Newmar included in this type mid-2000's era Newmar coach. Thanks.

[Dutch Star Don]

Here is the only hose I could find online but doesn't say if it's drinking water safe.

https://hdsupplysolutions.com/p/air-...r-hose-p154714

My other thought would be to call Glendinning and see if they'll sell just the hose. They sell a 35' and 50' hose spool, with hose, for $138.00 / $150.00.

https://www.glendinningprods.com/store/-p19073546

[Doug427]

Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don

Here is the only hose I could find online but doesn't say if it's drinking water safe.

https://hdsupplysolutions.com/p/air-...r-hose-p154714

My other thought would be to call Glendinning and see if they'll sell just the hose. They sell a 35' and 50' hose spool, with hose, for $138.00 / $150.00.

https://www.glendinningprods.com/store/-p19073546

Thanks Don - If it was a Glendinning water hose reel it might be easier. In my case it's the bright red Reelcraft water hose reel that Newmar put into almost all the early to mid 2000's era Class A's they built. My electrical reel is a Glendinning but the water hose reel is a Reelcraft. I contacted Reelcraft but they are unfortunately not much help.

[Dutch Star Don]

Originally Posted by Doug427

Thanks Don - If it was a Glendinning water hose reel it might be easier. In my case it's the bright red Reelcraft water hose reel that Newmar put into almost all the early to mid 2000's era Class A's they built. My electrical reel is a Glendinning but the water hose reel is a Reelcraft. I contacted Reelcraft but they are unfortunately not much help.

The reason I posted the Glendinning reel is that it wasn't ridiculously expensive. You don't need a Reelcraft hose, any 1/2" I.D. reel hose will work. Call Glendinning and see if they sell just the hose or just buy the reel I linked to and strip off the hose.

[Dav L]

I don't remember the hose being such a special beast.
did you take the old hose off? What end connects to the reel? Is it a standard garden hose end? or a barbed fitting and clamp?
Just get a standard RV drinking water rated hose, cut the end off, resecure it and bolt it all back together.
A trip to HomeDepot should get you going once you know what the end looks like. Quick look at ReelCraft's website, many use NPT threads which is standard stuff.

[Doug427]

I haven't taken the old hose off yet. I'm not too worried about attaching the new one. I just wanted to make sure I'm buying a decent hose as long as Im going to replace it anyway. Turns out that I need a 1/2" ID hose, and there aren't too many choices in that size, most are 5/8" ID. I ended up just buying a run of the mill white Camco hose. That'll work fine. The reel itself is in great shape, however the base where it sits in the plastic bay floor liner is badly corroded, probably from sitting in residual water over the years. I bought a replacement base that will require the complete dissasembly of the reel, springs, latch mechanism, etc to install. I'm not sure how it's all assembled, we'll see how it goes when I tear it down. I do have a parts schematic, that's about all I have to go by. Hopefully it goes ok. If not I have to buy a new reel, not the end of the world.

[Country Road]

Originally Posted by Doug427

I haven't taken the old hose off yet. I'm not too worried about attaching the new one. I just wanted to make sure I'm buying a decent hose as long as Im going to replace it anyway. Turns out that I need a 1/2" ID hose, and there aren't too many choices in that size, most are 5/8" ID. I ended up just buying a run of the mill white Camco hose. That'll work fine. The reel itself is in great shape, however the base where it sits in the plastic bay floor liner is badly corroded, probably from sitting in residual water over the years. I bought a replacement base that will require the complete dissasembly of the reel, springs, latch mechanism, etc to install. I'm not sure how it's all assembled, we'll see how it goes when I tear it down. I do have a parts schematic, that's about all I have to go by. Hopefully it goes ok. If not I have to buy a new reel, not the end of the world.

Sometimes biting the bullet is the best way to go. A new base and hose may put you half ways to the purchase of a new reel. That hose reel problem is not good when it acts up. When you need it, you need it. Kind of like a lawnmower that won’t start.

However, we all have to be wise with things we fix because we can’t always replace with new.

[Dutch Star Don]

Doug.....I'm sure you'll be able to rebuild the old one. When you reinstall, maybe put some small spacers, rubber or plastic under the base so it's about a 1/4" off of the floor, keeping it out of any water. I cap my hose every time I retract it. It keeps it from dripping and any critters from getting in.

[Dav L]

Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don

Doug.....I'm sure you'll be able to rebuild the old one. When you reinstall, maybe put some small spacers, rubber or plastic under the base so it's about a 1/4" off of the floor, keeping it out of any water. I cap my hose every time I retract it. It keeps it from dripping and any critters from getting in.

Y, good idea. I used my chop saw to cut some 1/2" PVC into very short pieces (like 1/4") and used those as standoffs for mine. Gives a good strong base, no issues with water, and lets the water drain from under the steel hose real base.
Used some stainless hardware to both thru the pan, the insulation, to the bottom. Nuts side up to nothing protruding underneath the hand up on or scrape.

[Doug427]

Great idea, guys. I like the idea of having the base stand off the plastic bay floor to keep it out of the water. Underneaath the coach, beneath the wet bay, is a false black plastic underbelly lining so to speak. The wet bay floor is above it. I don't see how to get that black plastic under the belly off so that I can use through bolts. Right now the hose reel is attached to the plastic floor of the wet bay with just screws, similar wood screws, into the plastic base of the wet bay. I'm virtually certaon that this is the way ot came from Newmar, as I see no apparent indication that anyone has disturbed anything in there. It's a pretty solid mounting so I have no wories about that aspect, but I was thinking of definitely using stainless hardware, and I like David's idea of using cut PVC line as discs to enact Don's theory of standing the base up and out of the water. Looks like I'll have to use the stainless wood screw type of hardware to secure it as it is now. I guess if it worked for Newmar it'll work for me. Any thoughts on that?

[Dav L]

Originally Posted by Doug427

Great idea, guys. I like the idea of having the base stand off the plastic bay floor to keep it out of the water. Underneaath the coach, beneath the wet bay, is a false black plastic underbelly lining so to speak. The wet bay floor is above it. I don't see how to get that black plastic under the belly off so that I can use through bolts. Right now the hose reel is attached to the plastic floor of the wet bay with just screws, similar wood screws, into the plastic base of the wet bay. I'm virtually certaon that this is the way ot came from Newmar, as I see no apparent indication that anyone has disturbed anything in there. It's a pretty solid mounting so I have no wories about that aspect, but I was thinking of definitely using stainless hardware, and I like David's idea of using cut PVC line as discs to enact Don's theory of standing the base up and out of the water. Looks like I'll have to use the stainless wood screw type of hardware to secure it as it is now. I guess if it worked for Newmar it'll work for me. Any thoughts on that?

You might find the wood under the tray is water soaked. Thats another reason to use nuts / bolts / washers and not wood bolts.

[Doug427]

Originally Posted by Dav L

You might find the wood under the tray is water soaked. Thats another reason to use nuts / bolts / washers and not wood bolts.

I have lots of car experience but not much motorhome repair type experience. What is the typical floor layer construction in a rig like mine? I see a white plastic floor liner above, and a thin black plastic sheeting underneath. What's between the white plastic floor in the wet bay and the thin black plastic sheeting underneath? How do I go about getting the black plastic underneath removed to get to whatever is between, and to the bolt heads if I was able to use bolts? My rig in in a parking facility and I wasn't able to really get inderneath it since it's under cover but outside and it was a rainy muddy mess when I was out there last to scope the situation out. It appeared that the black plastic is a very sizeable piece and from the limited ability to get under there I didn't see a readily apparent way to remove it.

[ftharrisiii]

Originally Posted by Doug427

I have lots of car experience but not much motorhome repair type experience. What is the typical floor layer construction in a rig like mine? I see a white plastic floor liner above, and a thin black plastic sheeting underneath. What's between the white plastic floor in the wet bay and the thin black plastic sheeting underneath? How do I go about getting the black plastic underneath removed to get to whatever is between, and to the bolt heads if I was able to use bolts? My rig in in a parking facility and I wasn't able to really get inderneath it since it's under cover but outside and it was a rainy muddy mess when I was out there last to scope the situation out. It appeared that the black plastic is a very sizeable piece and from the limited ability to get under there I didn't see a readily apparent way to remove it.

Here is a post from 2018 that shows the different layers under the wet bay floor. May or may not be the same as your coach, but could be a starting point.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/hav...ml#post4555452

[Doug427]

Originally Posted by ftharrisiii

Here is a post from 2018 that shows the different layers under the wet bay floor. May or may not be the same as your coach, but could be a starting point.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/hav...ml#post4555452

That's great info, Tom - thanks for that! I can't imagine that's very different from what I have in my rig.