Removing Newmar Macerator Hose

[rlmcfe]

I never use, and never intend to, my macerator on my LA. It occupies valuable real estate in the wet bay, so I want to disconnect it. It seems I need to crawl into a space made for a three year old to do it. Any advice from someone who’s done it as to what I’m looking at once I make it in there? Is it a few screws to remove?

[Kevin Bell]

Originally Posted by rlmcfe

I never use, and never intend to, my macerator on my LA. It occupies valuable real estate in the wet bay, so I want to disconnect it. It seems I need to crawl into a space made for a three year old to do it. Any advice from someone who’s done it as to what I’m looking at once I make it in there? Is it a few screws to remove?

Once you separate the two 3" gate valves you can move the macerator around. It's supported by 2 "legs" on opposite corners. The legs will have to be removed to pull the macerator out. Of course, you will need to build a discharge manifold to replace the macerator plumbing.

[Dutch Star Don]

Just another point of view. You don't need to remove it. I ordered our coach with the SaniCon and occasionally use it, mainly just to make sure it's working.

Here's why you can leave it.....both of your toilets are macerator toilets, so anything going out the drain is just a slurry. On my coach, I added a 3" electric drain valve when it was new. When we're camping, I leave my grey valve open and and just open the black valve electrically when the tank gets full. The bypass on the SaniCon is good size and the black tank drains in about 2-3 minutes via gravity.

My point, leave it attached and just don't use it. The hose is must handier to use than a 3" hose you have to store. And if on a rare occasion you need it, it's there.

[Schnave]

I wish I had a SaniCon in my old Tiffin. A couple times my gravity hose wouldn’t work: The sewer was above my tank outlet. I was forced to lift the hose (pretty heavy when full) and let it drain then drop it, let it fill again, and repeat for about 10 times until my tank was empty.

Just last week we attended a Kountry Klub rally in hilly West Virginia. Many rigs were parked with their front wheels hanging up in the air (a good debate for another thread). While there, a gentleman told me how he would never use his SaniCon. I just pointed to the rig parked in front of me. His SaniCon hose was pumping uphill.

[sramer]

Just this week I looked at removing mine then replacing it with the type the Dutch Star uses which is a Sanicon 600. The 600 is remote unit vs the box type we have on the London Aire that is hard plumbed into the tanks.

The box type is a PIA to change and I am now going to be on number 3 in 5.5 years and the remote one would be a eazy to replace if it went bad.

The problem is, the piping coming out of the tanks into the Sanicon box are offset and I dont see anyway to plumb them to line up to install a double Y waste valve with the limited amount of space. I am afarid to attempt to remove one of the couplings coming out of the tanks. So just beware you might end up with a piping alignment issue when all is said and done.

[Ajhyman]

Originally Posted by Schnave

I wish I had a SaniCon in my old Tiffin. A couple times my gravity hose wouldn’t work: The sewer was above my tank outlet. I was forced to lift the hose (pretty heavy when full) and let it drain then drop it, let it fill again, and repeat for about 10 times until my tank was empty.

Just last week we attended a Kountry Klub rally in hilly West Virginia. Many rigs were parked with their front wheels hanging up in the air (a good debate for another thread). While there, a gentleman told me how he would never use his SaniCon. I just pointed to the rig parked in front of me. His SaniCon hose was pumping uphill.

I was at the really too Yes some sites were not to level Sanicon sure did help out !!!

[GW4607]

Originally Posted by rlmcfe

I never use, and never intend to, my macerator on my LA. It occupies valuable real estate in the wet bay, so I want to disconnect it. It seems I need to crawl into a space made for a three year old to do it. Any advice from someone who’s done it as to what I’m looking at once I make it in there? Is it a few screws to remove?

If you are only removing the 20’ hose all you need is a 5/16” nut driver and a heat source. Loosen the clamp with the nut driver. Apply heat to the attached end of hose with a heat gun or equivalent. After heating, the hose will pull off rather easily. I would make a 3”-4” nipple with a cap on to clamp back on just in case the wrong gate valves gets pulled so you don’t have a big mess.

The 20’ hose waded up on the floor takes up the most usable space.

[Dutch Star Don]

Originally Posted by sramer

Just this week I looked at removing mine then replacing it with the type the Dutch Star uses which is a Sanicon 600. The 600 is remote unit vs the box type we have on the London Aire that is hard plumbed into the tanks.

The box type is a PIA to change and I am now going to be on number 3 in 5.5 years and the remote one would be a eazy to replace if it went bad.

The problem is, the piping coming out of the tanks into the Sanicon box are offset and I dont see anyway to plumb them to line up to install a double Y waste valve with the limited amount of space. I am afarid to attempt to remove one of the couplings coming out of the tanks. So just beware you might end up with a piping alignment issue when all is said and done.

If I were to buy a new coach, I would order it without the SaniCon if the coach came with macerator toilets. I would add the 3" electric gate valve and reduce the discharge port so it accepted a SaniCon hose. I've never had a need to pump uphill.