Removing Puck Lights from under Wooden Cabinets

[danleininger]

Newmar sent me a full set of replacement Puck Lights for my ‘19 MA about a year ago. But I have to either pay someone to replace them or do it myself. I choose to do this myself. There’s 84 puck lights in my MA.

Removing the ones from the ceiling, which has the standard leather like material, is pretty easy. I have gotten small tears but nothing big. However, removing the Puck Lights from under the cabinets or any other wood surface has proven to be difficult as the retaining clips chip the wood veneer as they come out.

So I’m needing a method to collapse the clips AS I’m pulling the Puck Light out of the wood. Otherwise I will chip the wood veneer.

Here’s a picture of the back of the Puck Light. It has THREE Clips that hold the light in place. So I need a way to compress these clips as the Puck Light is removed.

Thanks in advance!

[Ray,IN]

Assuming those are 3/16" pop-rivets and old lights will be junked, use a 1/8" drill bit to remove the rivet heads on the old retaining clips if you have access to the back side with them installed.
No drill? Then use metal shears to cut off the clips close to the rivets.

[Bobby Dowdle]

We try to bend the tabs out when we pull them down. This helps keep the wood from getting damaged. After you get to number 77, you will be an expert by then. LOL There is not a real way to keep them making any contact. You could also keep the lights and only swap out the bad ones at this time. That's how I would address the issue currently.

[stang37]

If the fixture can be pulled down some before the clips come all the way out and damage the wood. Then you might try inserting a plastic putty knife between the fixture base and the wood trim at one or two of the clip location and apply inward pressure to the clip.

[Steele]

Sounds like your in for some fun!

Are all your replacements the same? The ones in our 2017 DSDP that go into the bottom of the kitchen cabinets have 2 strong spring mouse trap style springs.

I just had one of those fail and won’t be in a position to get replacements until I get to Newmar in the late spring. I did remove it and disconnected it leading to my hand feeling like a mouse after the bail sprung. 🤬

I almost feel that when one fails it starts a cascade failure if you don’t isolate it from the rest. I know that seems crazy but after it failed another started to flicker and after I isolated it that one stopped.

It could be a coincidence but who knows.

I will advise getting a bunch of the Waygo lever action wire connectors for your convenience when you start replacing the set.

[Car1]

Originally Posted by danleininger

Newmar sent me a full set of replacement Puck Lights for my ‘19 MA about a year ago. But I have to either pay someone to replace them or do it myself. I choose to do this myself. There’s 84 puck lights in my MA.

Removing the ones from the ceiling, which has the standard leather like material, is pretty easy. I have gotten small tears but nothing big. However, removing the Puck Lights from under the cabinets or any other wood surface has proven to be difficult as the retaining clips chip the wood veneer as they come out.

So I’m needing a method to collapse the clips AS I’m pulling the Puck Light out of the wood. Otherwise I will chip the wood veneer.

Here’s a picture of the back of the Puck Light. It has THREE Clips that hold the light in place. So I need a way to compress these clips as the Puck Light is removed.

Thanks in advance!

Can you pull them down far enough to encircle the clips with a wire tie? If so, looking at your picture, once you pull the tie tight, the clips will compress and the fixture drop out??

[Southboun]

I have somewhat of a similar problem with pucks in my 2012 Freedom Xpress. I am replacing oem bulbs with LED. All the light lenses twist off to access the bulb. The two in the overhead wood valance in the kitchen don't twist off. Any suggestions for accessing the bulb without pulling the entire housing out? Beyond me why these are done like this.

Cheers

[danleininger]

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

Assuming those are 3/16" pop-rivets and old lights will be junked, use a 1/8" drill bit to remove the rivet heads on the old retaining clips if you have access to the back side with them installed.
No drill? Then use metal shears to cut off the clips close to the rivets.

Don’t have access to the back of the lights except those in the AC Covers. Thanks for your ideas.

[danleininger]

Originally Posted by Bobby Dowdle

We try to bend the tabs out when we pull them down. This helps keep the wood from getting damaged. After you get to number 77, you will be an expert by then. LOL There is not a real way to keep them making any contact. You could also keep the lights and only swap out the bad ones at this time. That's how I would address the issue currently.

Thanks Bobby! But pushing the tabs outward would make it very hard to pull the Puck Light out, at least initially, wouldn’t it???

[danleininger]

Originally Posted by stang37

If the fixture can be pulled down some before the clips come all the way out and damage the wood. Then you might try inserting a plastic putty knife between the fixture base and the wood trim at one or two of the clip location and apply inward pressure to the clip.

I like your thinking but maybe something a bit thicker???

[danleininger]

Originally Posted by Car1

Can you pull them down far enough to encircle the clips with a wire tie? If so, looking at your picture, once you pull the tie tight, the clips will compress and the fixture drop out??

I was thinking of Zip Ties being they are a little thicker, thanks!

[danleininger]

Originally Posted by Steele

Sounds like your in for some fun!

Are all your replacements the same? The ones in our 2017 DSDP that go into the bottom of the kitchen cabinets have 2 strong spring mouse trap style springs. HAVE THOSE ALSO, JUST NOT EVERYWHERE.

I just had one of those fail and won’t be in a position to get replacements until I get to Newmar in the late spring. I did remove it and disconnected it leading to my hand feeling like a mouse after the bail sprung. 🤬 HAPPENED TO ME ALSO. FUNNY HOW THAT SPRING KNOWS WHERE YOUR FINGER IS

I almost feel that when one fails it starts a cascade failure if you don’t isolate it from the rest. I know that seems crazy but after it failed another started to flicker and after I isolated it that one stopped. I THINK IT’S AN ISSUE OF OVER VOLTAGE WHILE BATTERIES ARE CHARGING. I WILL SEE 14.1VOLTS. THAT’S WHEN MINE START TO FLICKER AND BURN OUT. THIS IS WHY NEWMAR SENT ME SO MANY. THERE WAS A BAD BATCH THAT. COULDN’T HANDLE THE HIGHER VOLTAGES.

It could be a coincidence but who knows.

I will advise getting a bunch of the Waygo lever action wire connectors for your convenience when you start replacing the set. WOW, THOSE ARE REALLY FANCY!!!!

See my comments above! Thanks

[Wil_H]

Is it possible to surround the hole with painters tape? Perhaps pulling the puck light down a little to get the tape in as far as possible over the wood before pulling the puck light out all the way.

[Stuart W]

If your really concerned about the wood, remove the face of the light, unscrew the light element, grind a couple of the rivets from the inside.
But really for the most part , surround the Light with blue tape, get yourself two sets of these and with the one circled on opposite sides pull straight down alternating pressure slightly from side to side.[ATTACH]385593