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Old 03-22-2020, 11:12 PM   #1
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Repairing Cracked Silicone Caulking?

Now that I have mastered the silicone caulk removal I have another question.

After removing the cracked caulk, should I fill the crack with some kind of filler before recaulking? If so, what filler? See Photo
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Old 03-23-2020, 12:12 AM   #2
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What are the two panels we are looking at where the crack located? Are you going to use a clear product? I might try mixing matching paints with the clear product (caulk) you are going to use and see if you get a close march. Carefully work it in with some dental instruments you can buy at Harbor Freight,. For me, this all depending on where this crack is located. Allow to dry, touch up again if necessary and do your final caulk.

You could try gelcoat but, it looks like a stress point and it would fail again most likely.

My 2 cents

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Originally Posted by LK23 View Post
Now that I have mastered the silicone caulk removal I have another question.

After removing the cracked caulk, should I fill the crack with some kind of filler before recaulking? If so, what filler? See Photo
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Old 03-23-2020, 12:33 AM   #3
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Put a small bead in the base of the crack and use a finger and trowel it out quick. Keep a clean paper towel to rid any excess on your finger so it doesn't get on rest of finish.
Don't use a "tool" as that will be too slow and not as good a finish. Takes a few seconds. If you wait, it will skin and not get a smooth finish.
If clear is used (likely) you will still see the crack in the finish but it will be sealed.
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Old 03-23-2020, 09:18 AM   #4
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I need to clarify my questions.

1. This is the trim on the DS slide out.

2. The Newmar applied silicone caulking has cracked and the paint underneath the caulk has cracked as well.

My question restated: After removing the clear caulking, should I fill in the crack in the paint. If so, what should I use for the filler? I plan to finish with clear ProFlex RV polyurethane caulking. And, I can use touchup paint over the filler before clear caulking.
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Old 03-23-2020, 04:24 PM   #5
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I have a tintable caulk system. You put some exact color paint in the "injector" and then the injector pushes the color into the caulk. I think that would be the best as it would be much less likely to crack. The area of your crack is a flexibility spot that will move a bit and crack any solid filler.

Since you have multi colors, do one color at a time across whole RV. Very small nozzle hole. Trowel away from a new color. Dry semi solid. Do the other color so as not to disturb or mix with the first color. Pull away from the first color while troweling. You can use blue masking tape to ensure joint is clean color change lines if first color is dry dry. You can mask the sides too. Just pull the tape as soon as you finish troweling and you can do a final finger trowel to knock down any tape edges.

Applying is same as clear. Put a small bead, finger trowel it into place, wipe your finger with paper towel to keep it clean. Very quick and good result.

If you use a body plastic, likely will get messy. Doesn't trowel real easy with a finger AND keep the area clean. And post painting, easy for it to recrack. If you do this, use 2 part spot putty as it is a little less grainy. Do small sections at a time so you can clean up before it sets. Buy the putty at a pro body shop supply (not an auto parts store). All are not created equal. Use prep-sol to clean any messes before it cures (under 10 minutes depending on temperature). Post dry, then you have to paint. Either a pin stripe brush, or a good job masking and then an air brush to apply the paint smooth.
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Old 03-25-2020, 10:59 PM   #6
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Thanks for the answers, but I don't want to purchase a tintable caulk system for one 6-inch repair.

Let me pose my question more directly. Is there a paintable, flexible caulk I might use to fill the crack? If so, I could fill the crack and paint over the caulk before applying the clear ProFlex RV caulking.
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Old 03-26-2020, 04:12 AM   #7
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The easiest way I have found to get the caulking deep into cracks like that is to use a syringe.

I get syringes at the local farm store, but I'm sure that they are available online as well. They come in different sizes, and I use one with a barrel diameter about 3/8" so that I can easily insert the end of the caulking nozzle into the barrel of the syringe once the plunger is pulled out.

Once the syringe is filled with the caulking of your choice, attach a needle and carefully inject into the cracks. Really helpful if you use painter's tape on both sides of the crack - this limits where the caulking can go and makes cleanup much easier.

The needles for syringes come in a variety of sizes, and some of the one intended for farm use are quite large. I don't remember the number of the one I'm using, but it's about as big around as a piece of spaghetti. For smaller cracks I'll use the one about the size of angle hair pasta.

Before using the needle, carefully use a metal file or some Emory cloth to blunt the point. They are VERY sharp, and not only can they injure you they can also scratch paint easily until blunted.

Two points when using this method...

- You can't suck the caulking from the needle end. You've got to fill from the plunger end.

- You have to inject the caulking slowly, and it does take a bit more force on the plunger to start the flow. Once it's flowing things get a bit easier.

I've used this method to inject caulking into gaps in vinyl window frames, into gaps in molding and trim, and many other places.

Hope it helps you.
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Old 03-26-2020, 06:49 AM   #8
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Most important thing is to prep surface and remove anything that may be on the surface....Use Acetone to strip everything...
Look at RV GEEKS Video on tips from the mother ship.
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Old 03-26-2020, 07:19 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LK23 View Post
Thanks for the answers, but I don't want to purchase a tintable caulk system for one 6-inch repair.

Let me pose my question more directly. Is there a paintable, flexible caulk I might use to fill the crack? If so, I could fill the crack and paint over the caulk before applying the clear ProFlex RV caulking.
Didn't realize you only need to do 6 inches....
you could just pump some silicone onto a piece of cardboard, blend / fold in the color, and use your finger to apply to the crack.

5 minutes max.

what's the thought of using ProFlex? I wouldn't mix the caulks. Just another layer to peel in time.
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Old 03-26-2020, 02:33 PM   #10
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No matter what you put in there is likely to crack again unless you're able to stabilize that panel.
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