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Old 02-22-2013, 12:09 PM   #1
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Replacing Caulk??

While having my 2003 3352KSDP in the local RV mechanic's shop for heater hose changes he recommended repairing and replacing most of the caulking on the sides of the coach. He said some of it is still holding up, but that there is alot that is beginning to show signs of wear. He quoted me aprox. $900.00. This is a mechanic who I have used on my previous trailers and trust.

This is a job that I have been thinking about doing myself. One, I want it to be done well and to look good. Two, I think it is something that I should probably learn so I can maintain it.

How hard is this job and do you have any comments or suggestions. I have been reading around the forum on the topic but have not posted at Newmar until now.

Recomendations are most appreciated. I do store my coach under cover, so I could take my time.

Thanks in advance,

Dave
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Old 02-22-2013, 12:15 PM   #2
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I am currently doing mine and this has been a much talked about subject recently. Some people say they use silicone but I am in the process of removing all the silicone because it's junk:


I used a screwdriver and a razor and by hand removed all silicone.

I then used tape so I can get perfect lines:


Here is how it looked when done:
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Old 02-22-2013, 12:22 PM   #3
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looks good! Are you doing the entire coach? What product did you decide on?
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Old 02-22-2013, 12:33 PM   #4
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Yes I'm doing the entire coach. Piece by piece

I am using the Dicor sealant.

In the last pic you can see where the new caulk meets the old. It's a time consuming process but not hard and cost about $80 in materials.
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Old 02-22-2013, 02:52 PM   #5
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It's not a difficult job to do. It does take time and patients. For $900 bucks you can spend less than a $100 or so on product and save the rest for fun times. I'm currently in the process of recaulking mine. Finished the back on Tuesday and will hopefully finish the rest this weekend. Depends on how cold and wet it stays.
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:28 AM   #6
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I have been doing mine and use plastic spread blades to remove the old and clean with mineral sprites on roof will use E-Bond tape.
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Old 02-23-2013, 07:05 AM   #7
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If you're removing silicone, a plastic scraper generally will not gouge or remove paint. Anything else will, and make your job look terrible. You'll go through a few of them as when they loose they're sharp edge they're useless. When sharp though, they do a great job! You might consider starting in an area not seen as often. Tape is an EXCELLENT plan! Try to keep the width of the sealant about the same as what was there originally. Wide seams can be pretty unsightly?

I use silicone, but that's mostly because I've been using it forever and have grown accustomed to it's use. It's also what the factory used (regarding front/rear/sides).

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Old 02-23-2013, 08:30 AM   #8
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I would replace silicone caulk w/silicone caulk on the sides. I redid my roof w/Eternabond 4" tape. I have used dicor and I think it would be a problem on vertical areas.
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Old 02-23-2013, 11:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snomas1 View Post
I would replace silicone caulk w/silicone caulk on the sides. I redid my roof w/Eternabond 4" tape. I have used dicor and I think it would be a problem on vertical areas.
I would agree with the idea of replacing silicone caulk with silicone... especially since (as I understand it) silicone leaves behind a permanent "coating" that I thought prevented other sealants from properly adhering. Could be wrong about that one though!

As for Dicor... they do offer a "non-sag" variant of their sealant that doesn't flow like their "self-leveling" lap sealant does. It's apparently a different formulation that can safely be used in vertical applications.
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