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Old 10-20-2021, 08:08 PM   #1
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Right turn light on coach is working….Toad does not.

Discussing my problem with a friend [ Tiffin owner]
He says that somewhere there is a box full of diodes and other goodies that keeps cross over and feedback from brake lights, emergency flashers etc.

He thinks that box has failed. I have spent days and bucks chasing it on my toad to no avail.

1. I’ve never heard of such a Box
2. Where should I look?
3. Can I find a replacement at Napa etc, or is it Newmar/Spartan only

2007 KSDP. 3912
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Old 10-20-2021, 09:14 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DGBPokes View Post
Discussing my problem with a friend [ Tiffin owner]
He says that somewhere there is a box full of diodes and other goodies that keeps cross over and feedback from brake lights, emergency flashers etc.

He thinks that box has failed. I have spent days and bucks chasing it on my toad to no avail.

1. I’ve never heard of such a Box
2. Where should I look?
3. Can I find a replacement at Napa etc, or is it Newmar/Spartan only

2007 KSDP. 3912
The diodes your friend is referring to are installed on the rear brake lights on the toad. Remove the rear light assemblies and you should see them. They could be individual diodes or a 'box' with wires going to the brake lights.

They are there to isolate the toad wiring from the wiring coming from the coach when connected.

You'll have to go to eTrailer or somewhere like that - auto parts stores won't have them. Before you do, get a meter and determine if you have a bad diode. Could be a bad wire or oxidation or corrosion in one of there umbilical cord connections.
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Old 10-21-2021, 07:50 AM   #3
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Before you do all that. I assume that the toad lights work by themselves, not connected to mh , you didn’t say. Have you checked the wiring between coach and toad. You should be able to see if you have the correct voltage to the posts on connector.
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Old 10-21-2021, 08:24 AM   #4
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I agree on checking the wiring. Had the same issue. Found one blade on the 7 way had been pushed into the casing just enough to make for no connection. Everything showed proper voltage on the coach side and on the towed independently but no power to the towed when plugged in. Fortunately for me the fellow parked next to me was an electrician and taught me a lesson in diagnostics. I tested every diode and connection but never looked closely at the positioning of the blades. Hth.
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Old 10-21-2021, 08:27 AM   #5
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I had that problem intermittently, and found it was the coiled cable which connects the electrical from coach to car going bad…..replaced it with new, and all worked again.
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Old 10-21-2021, 08:36 AM   #6
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My DW taught me to go slow and test one---ONE---contact, connection at a time using my test light.
Then, using my battery charger set at 2A I test all connections separately from each other.
Amazing how quickly you can find a burnt out bulb or the exact short, or bad connection in each piece when testing it all by itself.
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Old 10-21-2021, 09:30 AM   #7
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My 2005 MADP 4032 has separate circuits for the taillights and the 7 blade trailer plug.

Separate wiring, separate fuses.
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Old 10-21-2021, 01:43 PM   #8
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You need to start from the beginning.....with either a test light or a meter, find the pin in the coach trailer plug for the turn signal. If you have power there, blinking test light or on/off reading on the meter, connect the umbilical cord to the coach. Now find that same pin and see if you still have power. If you have it there, connect it to the toad connection and test the back of the toad trailer plug for the same power.

If your good through all those connections, you then need to move to the right rear taillight and remove the housing. If the toad was wired to standards, they most likely used a harness that looks like this photo below.

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Again, if wired correctly, the green wire is used for the right side lights, yellow for left, brown for taillights and white for ground. Locate the green wire. If there isn't one, locate the wire that looks like it was added and is not part of the vehicle's wiring. Test this wire for the same power you've been following.

If you have power there, your next step is to locate the diodes (one way switches) that are used to isolate your toad lights from the coach lights so they don't back feed into your vehicle's electrical system.

There are two ways of using diodes. The first way is to use a single diode on each light. The diode has three connections and looks like the one below. The power from your toad's right taillight is cut and connected to the diode. The power from your coach taillight is also connected next to the toad wire on the diode. The diode now has power coming from the coach and toad to operate the taillight. Now the wire that was cut that goes to the actual taillight bulb, goes on the third lead of the diode. This allows the taillight to be powered by either the coach or the toad, but they can't interfere with each other (the diodes job). It's not unusual for the diode to fail or a wire come loose.

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Lastly, the newest method and easier to install, is a small box with all the diodes installed inside of it and all the wires attached. You just need to cut taillight wires and reconnect them to this diode box. This is a photo of one below. I had the same issue you're having with my 2016 GM Canyon. On a trip, I lost the left rear taillight on the truck, only when towing. The diode box went bad. I was able to bypass just the left taillight and add a separate diode pictured above. When I got home I replaced the box.


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Old 10-22-2021, 08:39 PM   #9
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I appreciate all the time and effort you guys went to help me with my problem.
I found a fuse box in bay in front of the starboard rear dually. There were circuits and fuses for the rear light system, and the 7.5 fuse was blown. Knowing where the fuse was, and a test light, I was able to determine the coach plug good, the umbilical cord was good to the toad. I have a short in the toad.
Thanks again. On to the toad problem..
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Old 10-22-2021, 08:41 PM   #10
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Thanks for the update, wish you success on your hunt.
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Old 10-22-2021, 08:53 PM   #11
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As with almost all electrical issues , pinpointing the problem takes 95% of the time , the actual repair 5%.

When it come to pinpointing , I'd rather be lucky than good ; so good luck .
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