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Chickadee · 05-02-2012, 10:22 AM

Good Morning from the prairies of South Dakota!!

Left winter camp in Florida a few weeks ago and headed here to home summer camp just South of Mitchell, SD. Rough trip!! High winds, storms, etc. Anyway,....since there's not much for RV service out here on the prairie, I've got a few "fix it" issues I need your help, suggestions, guidance and/or advice about.

(FYI: We live full time in our 08 Ex (4502), 500 ISM Cummins, Spartan chassis, and....ofcourse, out of most warranties

).

Issue #1: On way North through Georgia, the instrument panel fuel gauge started going wacky. We departed 1st nights campground and noticed, about twenty miles up the road, that the gauge needle started dropping rapidly. Over the course of about 30 mins. it dropped passed 3/4's, then down below 1/2, and almost down to 1/4, THEN, it bounced back on up to toward 3/4's and hung there a bit before dropping again. Pulled in to a Love's to check for leaking fuel, or whatever I could find, which was nothing apparent, so we filled the fuel so I would know where I was on fuel consumption, and...the amount it took was where it should have been based on previous days travel, so....at least I knew it wasn't a leak and had to be something with the tank sensor or electronics, or the dash gauge itself.

question(s): Anyone have ideas as to how to begin trouble shooting this erratic gauge?? Is it tough to access?? And, would this be a NEWMAR issue, a CUMMINS issue, or a SPARTAN issue?? Thanks.

Issue #2: The 3 seam, 4 panel, Girard brand slide topper awning on the street side slideout took a beating one night. While all 4 panels are still attached securely to both the spring roller assembly (which is attached to the coach) at the top edge and to the outboard top edge of the slide at the lower edge, and the slideout works fine so far, ALL 3 double stitched seams between the 4 fabric panels have let go and with a little breeze, you can see these seams open, close, flutter, etc.

question(s): Have any of you replaced this awning yourselves?? How tough is it to replace this awning?? Is there somewhere to get a set of instructions?? Would it be worthwhile to remove old awning, and have an awning shop re-stitch the seams?? Is the Girard outfit still in business?? And finally, would YOU live with it as is?? Thanks.

Issue #3: This one I can probably fix, but I'll ask anyway since one of you, unlike myself, probably know what you're talking about and how to do it the right way. There is a side wheel well panel around the front street/driver's side tire which, on the rear portion that comes around the tire has the street side fuel fill port at the top, a "dock light" below that, and an orange turn flasher below that. Well, sometime during our wonderful trip North, the bottom edge of this side panel was pulled loose from it's mounting (probably due to high winds encountered) and kind of flaps with high winds or when underway. Now when I discovered this, I duct taped this lower curved in edge to a piece of angle iron just inside the lower margin of this panel and it held o.k. Now that we're at our summer camp, I need to reattach this lower edge correctly.

question(s): I plan to raise our front jacks and turn the wheels one way or the other so I can get my head in to see behind this panel. (I WON'T be going under the rig but think I can get to this area without being in danger since I don't have jack stands). Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I'll be looking for or how to proceed??? Thanks.

Thanks again beforehand for ANY help you guys or gals might be able to offer.

Steve & Lynette

Skip426 · 05-02-2012, 10:56 AM

I'll chime in on issue #1 ; Spartan : chassis maker supplies tank and wiring.
Any relation between headlights on and gauge operation ??
I'm chasing a gauge reading issue myself, reads 1/4 tank high with the lights on. Still looking at all the ground wiring. Good luck.

FlyingDiver · 05-02-2012, 11:00 AM

Steve - check for a loose connection on the fuel sender unit. If the K2 is like my K3, it's behind a little cover on the wall behind your freezer. Pull the freezer out, and there's a rotating cover plate. The sender unit should be right behind it.

joe

Romeo · 05-02-2012, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chickadee

question(s): I plan to raise our front jacks and turn the wheels one way or the other so I can get my head in to see behind this panel. (I WON'T be going under the rig but think I can get to this area without being in danger since I don't have jack stands). Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I'll be looking for or how to proceed??? Thanks.
Steve & Lynette

I can't be of much help with other than a suggestion regarding lack of jack stands... I use wood blocks, short lengths of 4x4's stacked. Jack up with HWH leveling jacks and lower onto blocks. I also have truck size wheel blocks that I would use in conjunction with the blocks.

chief02 · 05-02-2012, 11:04 AM

Check all dash gauge wires. In particualur all ground wires even on the fuel tank sending unit. If you have a guage "cluster" in youe dash a simple loose ware will create havoc. If you have single gauges it will be easier to find and check for loose wires.

Romeo · 05-02-2012, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FlyingDiver

Steve - check for a loose connection on the fuel sender unit. If the K2 is like my K3, it's behind a little cover on the wall behind your freezer. Pull the freezer out, and there's a rotating cover plate. The sender unit should be right behind it.
joe

That would be the "basement freezer". On the back wall of that compartment there is the circular access port.

ottffss · 05-02-2012, 12:29 PM

Issue #1 - Flydive has you in the right direction (and location/access). It is ALL Spartan. I've had the same fluctuation you said once or twice and never again (and did the same find the leak inspection you did!). A little more frequently I'll get a full-to-3/4 wiggle when I first fill a couple times and then all settles out. Never enough to cause me concern. If you replace the sending unit - run the tank to near empty and no problem - give Randy at Newmar service a call (the same Randy that used to work in the highline service bay is now manning the phones) and ask how he added extra silicone to the sender internal wiring to eliminate a common (internal to the sender) leakage point that sent readings wacky.

issue #2 - Live with it. I have (all three seam stitching gone on that same ODS front topper) for 2+ years in CO wind storms. It seems to be holding up just fine and no ill effects. Girard is still going strong. It turns out that Girard holds the color codes for your rig (using your full VIN not the Newmar build) and won't give them to Newmar. So, call Girard and they'll send you new awning cut to fit and ready to install - for a price. The install is not difficult, is a 2 person job - only due to the awkward length. You basically "lock" the spring loaded main roller using a bar (plenty of pics around showing how) and then remove the single small sheet metal screw at the end of the awning at the awning to slide connection point and simply slide the whole fabric out. Slide the new in and release the locking bar.

issue #3 - Not sure I understand what let loose. The actual BODY panel (which curves underneath at the location you describe) is secured with a sheet metal screw straight up through the panel (right in the middle of that underside curve which is like 1 odd inches wide) and into a steel angle brace. Are we talking the same thing????

As for jacking with the HWH. No issue at all with lifting the wheels (front or back though adding a a couple 2x lumber or jack pads under the jack helps) - I and Newmar do it all the time - but, if a HWH hose lets loose, that baby falls before you know the hose broke. If your head is stuffed in the wheel well looking around at things it probably is going to stay there. If all you are doing is changing wheel bearing lube no big deal. I got a couple 20ton stands "Torin Black Jack" brand jacks from a Costco type place for like $40ea. Being screw top bottle style they are only like 8in in diameter at the base hence take little room and fit under the chassis rails on a slide tray with no problem. Mine live at the very back of a slider tray as they see infrequent use.

Lug_Nut · 05-02-2012, 04:56 PM

I can only offer two suggestions for your issues.

The fuel tank issue sounds like a ground issue or perhaps a loose or oxidized terminal connector.

The body issue is easily fixed and is how Newmar would do it. Drill two holes in the panel and framing. This requires holding it in position while drilling. The hole size must be made for a pair on sheet metal screws that will be vertically installed under the roll-under of the body. That will fix it like new.

Sorry, I have no quick answers for your other issues.

Peter

srydve · 05-02-2012, 07:44 PM

If you do have to replace the awning these guys are pretty good and as already stated straight forward to do yourself with 2 people.RV Slide Out Awnings, Replacement Fabric

Chickadee · 05-03-2012, 08:02 PM

Hey ALL!!!

Thanks for all the help....you guys are great.

Joe...I'll dig into that sensor port tomorrow if it a stormin here in So. Dakota. Yup, I know where this port is...right behind the bsmnt. cooler/freezer. Will let ya know what I find.

ottffss.....Got that side panel reattached..thanks. Will be checking that fuel sender and circuitry thing related to fuel gauge.

As a few suggested....YOU'RE RIGHT!!...we'll learn to live with the slide topper awning seam issue. It's workin o.k. anyhow.

THANKS AGAIN YOU GUYS/GALS.

Steve & Lynette

clnhse · 05-03-2012, 08:14 PM

On your awning, I replaced mine because it would not pull the cover tight. They sent it to me one of my workers helped replace it. Very easy, took less than an hour.

I know what panel. One of the self tapping screws broke. Put a new screw in from the bottom. It happened to my 08 dutchstar in high wind and started flapping.

Skipper 05MA · 05-05-2012, 08:39 AM

Steve, we had the fuel gauge problem on our Mtn Aire and Essex 08. In both cases it required replacing the fuel sender which was in the tank and fuel had wicked in to the sending unit and caused the wacky readings. In both cases it solved the problem. Look like your other two issues are being resolved. Good Luck!

ottffss · 05-05-2012, 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skipper 05MA

...fuel had wicked in to the sending unit and caused the wacky readings...

Just another reminder. Since it is unknown if the design flaw that causes this rather common wicking has been fixed on new senders, Randy at Newmar (the guy that used to do this exact repair) always put a dab of silicon on the sender wiring (that goes inside the tank) before installing a new sender. It might be beneficial for anyone doing (or getting) this repair to call him (he now mans the tech phone lines up there) and get the details on how he did it...

Chickadee · 05-06-2012, 09:40 AM

Hey, Joe (Flying Diver), Skipper 05MA, and ottffss:

In the bay compartment just aft of the right front tire and on the back wall of this bay is a threaded cover plate (black) behind which is the "sending" unit you've been talking about. (Been storming here in S. Dakota so haven't opened it yet). Just wondering, is that "sending unit" outside or inside the fuel tank? If inside....then I suppose you need to run the tank near empty BEFORE working on or changing this "sending unit"???

Steve