Samsung Refrigerator & Modified Sine Wave Inverter

[Gaetan Lavoie]

My Dometic refrigerator has finally given up after 12 years.

I am considering a Samsung 17.5 cubic feet Model RF18HFENBSR/AC with a 1.1A maximum amperes (431 Kw/yr) with a depth of 24 inch w/o doors & handles, width of 32 inch and height of 70 inches with casters. So far, it sounds promising. However, I don't know if it will work wit a Modified Sine Wave Inverter.

Does anyone know if this refrigerator will work with my older inverter or know about a more suitable refrigerator?

I will appreciate the feedback of anyone.

[HHIDan]

The RF18 will work well with a MSW. I ran mine for a while with no problems.

I replaced a Norcold 1200 which was the same width and same depth but a little taller so I had to modify the cabinetry at top and bottom which was not that difficult.

Eventually, I decided to upgrade to 6 coach batteries and a new PSW inverter and am now thinking about solar panels. I went from a Magnum MS2012 (MSW) to a 2812 (PSW).

Daniel B.
Rockland ON

[tom chelbana]

Put a 22 cu ft Kitchen Aid in 2010 in our older Essex ( 04) with MSW and has worked great now for 6 years. Only had to cut 2 inches from the top to slide right in. One of the best changes we have done.

[Pexring]

How big is your old inverter?

Both my motorhomes have residential fridges. Wouldn't go any other way. I use a 2000 watt PSW inverter. Probably a bit overkill but I have no troubles.

[Gaetan Lavoie]

First, I wish to thank everyone who have provided feedback especially regarding the suitability of a MSW Inverter to run the Samsung Refrigerator.

The Inverter is a Xantrex RV2012 which puts out a Modified Sine Wave.

There is one aspect that I still need to tackle ant it has to do with anchoring the refrigerator down so that it does not move while travelling. So I would welcome any suggestions in this area.

Has anyone been successful in adding two additional batteries to the existing four and where did you install them?

Is 1.1 max ampere much of a current drain (431 kWh/year) on 4 batteries or am I worrying about nothing?

[harleyjt]

I'm amazed at how little current refrigerators use these days. 1.1 A is minimal. To put it in perspective, I think a 12v stop lamp bulb draws more current. And, you have to also consider that the refer cycles on and off. It's no where near a constant draw. They are so well insulated it takes very little to maintain a constant temperature. IMO you are good with the batteries you have.


jt
2005 Newmar Kountry Star gas 3742, Workhorse 8.1L w/Allison 5 speed.

Sent from my iPhone using iRV2 - RV Forum

[nothermark]

Originally Posted by harleyjt

I'm amazed at how little current refrigerators use these days. 1.1 A is minimal. To put it in perspective, I think a 12v stop lamp bulb draws more current. And, you have to also consider that the refer cycles on and off. It's no where near a constant draw. They are so well insulated it takes very little to maintain a constant temperature. IMO you are good with the batteries you have.


jt
2005 Newmar Kountry Star gas 3742, Workhorse 8.1L w/Allison 5 speed.

Sent from my iPhone using iRV2 - RV Forum

That is 1.1 A at 120 VAC or about 130 Watts for the refrigerator.

The light bulb draws more current but at a significantly lower voltage. I think around 15 Watts.

It's all in the line voltage. ;-)

[HHIDan]

Originally Posted by Gaetan Lavoie

First, I wish to thank everyone who have provided feedback especially regarding the suitability of a MSW Inverter to run the Samsung Refrigerator.

The Inverter is a Xantrex RV2012 which puts out a Modified Sine Wave.

There is one aspect that I still need to tackle ant it has to do with anchoring the refrigerator down so that it does not move while travelling. So I would welcome any suggestions in this area.

Has anyone been successful in adding two additional batteries to the existing four and where did you install them?

Is 1.1 max ampere much of a current drain (431 kWh/year) on 4 batteries or am I worrying about nothing?

Anchoring: I built a new floor with 2 X 6 and thick plywood and put 4 screws in the bottom of the fridge into the 2x6's, 2 at front and 2 at rear. The fridge will never move...

I moved my two engine batteries into the rear with the engine behind the pass side turn light and was able to put the two additional batts in the tray. You don't really need them but I went from about 16 hours to 24 hours by doing so.

I see you are in Orleans, about 15 minutes away... Be glad to show you what I did!!

[harleyjt]

Originally Posted by nothermark

That is 1.1 A at 120 VAC or about 130 Watts for the refrigerator.

The light bulb draws more current but at a significantly lower voltage. I think around 15 Watts.

It's all in the line voltage. ;-)

True. 👍. But again little more than a 100 wt light bulb. Very little energy usage.

jt
2005 Newmar Kountry Star gas 3742, Workhorse 8.1L w/Allison 5 speed.

Sent from my iPhone using iRV2 - RV Forum

[Dutch Star Don]

"Gaetan Lavoie"......I installed the Samsung RF197 in my Diplomat a few years ago. The Samsung refers are well matched to MSW inverters.

I installed mine and bolted/screwed it at the floor level. I wanted a support at the top, so I took a piece of tin or aluminum plate, about 6"x 8" and added two sided tape to one side. I thin attached it to the right side of the refer near the back so that 1" of the plate was above the height of the refer. I added several small sheet metal screws to the plate, that were short enough that it only pierced the outer skin of the refer. I drilled a 3/8" hole in the piece of plate that was above the refer.

Once installed, I removed the original roof vent where I could now see the plate I added. On my Monaco, the roof opening was framed in aluminum. I took a piece of flat stock aluminum, approximately 1" wide by 1/8" thick and made a short arm that bolted to the plate on the refer. I took the other end of the arm and screwed it to the framed opening. This prevented any movement of the refer.

Obviously, you have to see where your vent aligns with the new refer, but this worked well and was rock solid. Once done, I added screen door mesh to the roof vent opening and reinstalled the roof vent.

I wanted to add two more batteries to my system, taking it from 4 to 6 house batteries. On my Diplomat, The battery tray held four house batteries and two starting batteries. Since the starting batteries were 12 volt and a little larger, they took up just enough extra space that I couldn't add two more batteries in that same bay. My Diplomat didn't come with a battery slide tray so it was fairly tall. With the two starting batteries removed, I could actually add four more house batteries for a total of eight if I desired.

My solution....since the bay was tall, I welded up a frame that would hold my two starting batteries above my house batteries. Once I moved them, I add room for 2-4 more house batteries.

This may not work on yours, but gives you some ideas.

[twinboat]

1.1 amps 120 volts AC is 11 amps 12 volt DC.

Add 15% for the MSW inverter loss's, so say 13.5 amps.

Over a 24 hour period, at 50% running time that's 162 AH.

4 batteries should be giving you 400+ AH of which you should only use 200.

Most fridge don't even run 50% of the time , so there should be a savings there.

They also don't use AH from the battery, when charging, another deduction.

With GOOD batteries and 3 to 4 hours charging, you should be fine, even with a little TV and lights.

Your results may vary.

[Archer2]

Originally Posted by twinboat

1.1 amps 120 volts AC is 11 amps 12 volt DC.

Add 15% for the MSW inverter loss's, so say 13.5 amps.

Over a 24 hour period, at 50% running time that's 162 AH.

4 batteries should be giving you 400+ AH of which you should only use 200.

Most fridge don't even run 50% of the time , so there should be a savings there.

They also don't use AH from the battery, when charging, another deduction.

With GOOD batteries and 3 to 4 hours charging, you should be fine, even with a little TV and lights.



Your results may vary.

This is NOT directed specifically at you Twinboat. I hope to clear up some confusion about voltage, current and power. The formula that describes how these three are related is: Power (in Watts) is equal to Voltage (in Volts) times Current (in Amps). So a bulb rated at 12 Watts at 12 Volts would draw 1 Amp of current. A bulb rated at 12 Watts at 120 Volts would draw 0.1 amps. So the three terms, Voltage, Current and Power are mathematically inter-related.

[Adam Hunter]

Have a look at the Monaco owners Forum and search Residential Fridge install. LOTS of info. there too, that model seemed to be a perfect fit for everyone that has Monaco products. Some very detailed posts about floor and cabinet modifications - so you should find lots of great ideas.

We had a HR Scepter and its 2000W MSW inverter ran the res. fridge fine when we did the switch.

Don't forget door locks - you will need them to keep things shut while travelling.



Adam.

[nothermark]

Originally Posted by harleyjt

True. 👍. But again little more than a 100 wt light bulb. Very little energy usage.

jt
2005 Newmar Kountry Star gas 3742, Workhorse 8.1L w/Allison 5 speed.

Sent from my iPhone using iRV2 - RV Forum

Actually it is quite a bit in the average 12 VDC installation. A 220 AH storage battery has roughly 110 AH usable without degrading battery life. A 100 W light bulb will draw roughly 10 Amps/hour via the Inverter. That is less than a half day run time. A lot of folks only have two batteries.