Community Forums

RudysDad · 05-05-2021, 01:58 PM

2014 Newmar Ventana slide lock on drivers side slide won’t engage. The metal plate on the bottom of the slide hits the side of the motorhome and the slide stops. The slide stays out just over an inch and the lock doesn’t engage. That’s on the back lock. The front lock engages.
Anyone ever had this happen and what did you do to resolve it?
Thank you for any help.

CMHMike · 05-10-2021, 05:23 AM

If you're talking about the black paddle on the bottom, my understanding is when that is pushed against the side of the RV when bringing the slide in, it pushes a spring-loaded rod up to engage the upper slide lock which is usually white. If this is the system on that slide, there is a bearing on the upper white slide lock that sometimes breaks and that could cause the rod to freeze which wouldn't allow the black lower paddle from pushing in.

twojayhawks · 05-10-2021, 12:50 PM

Is this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3aCEYtHPMIM

the style of slide lock you have? If you have a paddle that won't "compress" don't try to force it by trying to get the slide to come in as you can damage the slide motor. Below is a picture of the whole assembly. First look at the upper assembly for the lock & make certain you don't have a broke bearing as that will make it hang up.

RudysDad · 05-11-2021, 06:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CMHMike

If you're talking about the black paddle on the bottom, my understanding is when that is pushed against the side of the RV when bringing the slide in, it pushes a spring-loaded rod up to engage the upper slide lock which is usually white. If this is the system on that slide, there is a bearing on the upper white slide lock that sometimes breaks and that could cause the rod to freeze which wouldn't allow the black lower paddle from pushing in.

Thank you for the info. That is the system I have. I’m traveling right now and won’t get to take a look at it until I’m home. Hopefully an easy fix.

RudysDad · 05-11-2021, 06:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twojayhawks

Is this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3aCEYtHPMIM

the style of slide lock you have? If you have a paddle that won't "compress" don't try to force it by trying to get the slide to come in as you can damage the slide motor. Below is a picture of the whole assembly. First look at the upper assembly for the lock & make certain you don't have a broke bearing as that will make it hang up.

That is the style of lock I have. I saw that video before. None of my locks will move by hand like that. Maybe there are some differences. I will try to repair it when I get back home. Newmar said it was fine to travel with it the way it is but I’d like to get it fixed.
How did you access the lock while it was up?

twojayhawks · 05-11-2021, 07:43 AM

If you have this style of slide lock, and the slide room is out, yes you absolutely should be able to squeeze the paddle manually & simulate what happens when the slide room is fully retracted. It is not super easy though you'll gain a new appreciation of the gear reduction power of your slide motor/gears realizing it has to compress two of them to fully retract a room slide. With the slide open you have the best access you will ever have at testing/repairing the slide lock system. If you wanted to fully close your room slide you can easily just remove a faulty/stuck slide lock mechanism & just operate the slide with the one functioning lock- in a pinch. Go up & unbolt (2 bolts) the white upper paddle piece, remove all the fasteners from the lower paddle assembly, disconnect the rod & remove it. Rod inside is maybe 1/2" steel. If operating correctly it is very simple. When the paddle is compressed it drives the rod up & makes the white slide lock go vertical. If something is not "right" no amount of force will work.

RudysDad · 05-11-2021, 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twojayhawks

If you have this style of slide lock, and the slide room is out, yes you absolutely should be able to squeeze the paddle manually & simulate what happens when the slide room is fully retracted. It is not super easy though you'll gain a new appreciation of the gear reduction power of your slide motor/gears realizing it has to compress two of them to fully retract a room slide. With the slide open you have the best access you will ever have at testing/repairing the slide lock system. If you wanted to fully close your room slide you can easily just remove a faulty/stuck slide lock mechanism & just operate the slide with the one functioning lock- in a pinch. Go up & unbolt (2 bolts) the white upper paddle piece, remove all the fasteners from the lower paddle assembly, disconnect the rod & remove it. Rod inside is maybe 1/2" steel. If operating correctly it is very simple. When the paddle is compressed it drives the rod up & makes the white slide lock go vertical. If something is not "right" no amount of force will work.

I did go out and try to compress them by hand. I got the two on the bedroom slide to operate and it was a bit hard. Nothing like the guy in the video. Neither of the two on the kitchen slide would operate by hand although the front one does work when the slide is retracted. I’m in Michigan right now. Cold,windy and rainy. I probably wont be working on it today. I may try removing the rod though when we get a nicer day. I don’t really like driving with the slide sticking out over an inch.

RudysDad · 05-29-2021, 10:42 AM

Don’t want you to think I forgot you guys. Got home Thursday night and played three weeks worth of catch up on yard work on Friday. Been raining ever since so I haven’t had a chance to work on the slide yet. I will let you know what I find.
Thanks again for your input.

"007" · 05-29-2021, 12:21 PM

Rudy in this link will explain your slide lock and maintenance required because of water causing problems, it comes from this large sticky.

RudysDad · 06-02-2021, 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twojayhawks

If you have this style of slide lock, and the slide room is out, yes you absolutely should be able to squeeze the paddle manually & simulate what happens when the slide room is fully retracted. It is not super easy though you'll gain a new appreciation of the gear reduction power of your slide motor/gears realizing it has to compress two of them to fully retract a room slide. With the slide open you have the best access you will ever have at testing/repairing the slide lock system. If you wanted to fully close your room slide you can easily just remove a faulty/stuck slide lock mechanism & just operate the slide with the one functioning lock- in a pinch. Go up & unbolt (2 bolts) the white upper paddle piece, remove all the fasteners from the lower paddle assembly, disconnect the rod & remove it. Rod inside is maybe 1/2" steel. If operating correctly it is very simple. When the paddle is compressed it drives the rod up & makes the white slide lock go vertical. If something is not "right" no amount of force will work.

I took the bolts out of the upper paddle and removed the fasteners from the lower rod assembly. How do you remove the rod? Nothing seems to move at all.

RudysDad · 06-02-2021, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twojayhawks

Is this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3aCEYtHPMIM

the style of slide lock you have? If you have a paddle that won't "compress" don't try to force it by trying to get the slide to come in as you can damage the slide motor. Below is a picture of the whole assembly. First look at the upper assembly for the lock & make certain you don't have a broke bearing as that will make it hang up.

I’m trying to access the assembly. I took the two bolts out of the top and the 5 screws out of the bottom assembly. Nothing moves or comes out of anywhere. How do I get to the bearing when I can’t get the the top paddle to open up ? I’m missing something here.

RudysDad · 06-03-2021, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 007";5770443]Rudy in[B][URL="https://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/slides-the-good-bad-and-the-ugly-455627.html

this link[/URL][/B] will explain your slide lock and maintenance required because of water causing problems, it comes from this large sticky.

Thanks for the maintenance tips. Do you have any idea on how to remove the rod or the top paddle to see if the bearing at the top is causing my issue? I took the two bolts out of the top. There are 5 screws in plate on the bottom. I removed those but the plate doesn’t move. I think I’m missing a step here. I see no way to remove the rod.

RudysDad · 06-05-2021, 02:57 PM

Thanks for the pics and advice. I did figure out how to get it apart. Sometimes you just got to walk away for a bit. The bearing was fine. The top actuating bell crank was rusted solid and wouldn’t move. Soaked with WD40 and knock er loose and got it moving. Still a little stiff but I’ll keep working it and hopefully get it useable. Over 400 bucks for a new top assembly.
Thanks again.

"007" · 06-06-2021, 06:10 PM

Thanks for your thread RudysDad was interesting and good info on your repair to a thread I made some time back. Found that video when building the SLIDE Thread and never got back to improve the link.
Well your thread has changed that and I will highlight this problem that many maybe unaware of and should be added to their CHECK LIST, because eventually there will need to perform some maintenance.
Using a fluid such as Fluid Film will prevent rust of spring and lube for parts to operate freely over time, the slide moved out allows water to get into lock system now use on all coach's since 2012, water on slide locking systems has always been a problem with the slides, since the manual locks were changed to the automatic locking systems.
Yes WD-40 will work but to much can also cause problems with fiberglass walls or interior walls if allow to penetrate walls with to much fluid. If you ever used on your compartment door locks you will know what I mean.