I was bringing in my slide the other day and saw a screw drop onto the floor behind the driver seat. I stopped the closing and looked at that end of the slide and saw that the slide lock had become stuck and had ripped the part that attached to the RV wall, out of the wall
Seems this isn't the first time since the screws being used are much larger than the ones used on the other end.
I think I can repair this by screwing a piece of 1/8" aluminum to the wall and then attaching the slide lock to it.
Anyway, now my question. My bars, especially the front one, were really bent, so bent that there was no way you could lock them (see the image immediately above to see how the rear lock bar was). I removed them and put them in a vise and bent them back flat/straight. I then found out that the rear one needed a little "bow" in it to clear the slide as you extend the slide. The front bar could be flat and it would clear.
I have never used the locking bars because I knew there was no way to lock them (the tool wasn't included with the coach), not only because I didn't have the tool but there is now way to pull the slide in enough for the bars to lock.
This is a pic of the newly flattened front bar (I haven't repaired the wall yet) with the slide all the way retracted. I can see that I have maybe an inch that I could pull the slide in at the front and nothing at the rear yet you see how much it would take to lock the bars.
So what do your bars look like and how much do you have to pull up the bars to lock them? Our slide is 3ft deep, so if you have a narrower one the bar will be different. I, frankly, am at a loss as to what to do now.
__________________
Rick and Larrie Dee
1997 40' Newmar London Aire DP CTA 8.3 (Mechanical) 325 Spartan MM
Bringing her back to her glory.
'08 Jeep GC Overland.
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Hello Rick, when my slide is in and stopped, I never have used the tool.......just place the palm of my hand on the bottom of the slide lock and shove it up into the locked position. It does tilt the top half of the slide in just a bit when locked so it is firmly locked in place. I forgot to lock them once, and driving I could tell something was wrong.......reached behind me with my hand over my head and sure enough......I had forgot to lock them.......stopped and locked. Make sure your slide looks good from the outside all around it, top and bottom also. The lock's are mounted and dependent on the slide properly closed so when locked they "Snap" into the locked position. To unlock, I just make a fist and hit the center pivot position and they snap down, then put some pressure on them to make sure they are all the way down and unlocked before operating the slide...........
I have bent the living room front manual slide lock no less than 3 times on our 2002 MADP. After straightening in a vise like you, I reinstalled and the locking arms worked as before. If your slide is flush with the exterior wall of your coach, your locking arms appear to be longer than ours. If I do not straighten my locking arms completely, the will not stay locked while underway. With the damage on the wall that your photo shows, I'm wondering if a previous owner replaced the arms with the incorrect length? With my slide room in completely, the lock arm has to be pushed up about an inch to engage the lock.
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Steve Richard and Ann Glaude
Shelby (poodle parti merle)
2002 MADP 3954 Cummins ISL 370 2003 Honda Pilot
Thanks for the reply.
I can understand that there should be some effort to lock them but it just seems that mine are too long to be able to lock them, especially where they are mounted to the outside wall. The rear of my slide is almost flush all along but the front of the slide is almost flush at the top and about an inch out at the bottom.
Maybe I need to move the part that attaches to the outside wall down the wall a little until it allows me to lock them with a little effort, like yours?
__________________
Rick and Larrie Dee
1997 40' Newmar London Aire DP CTA 8.3 (Mechanical) 325 Spartan MM
Bringing her back to her glory.
'08 Jeep GC Overland.
A head scratcher, for sure. I'll have to take a good look at the way the slide mates to the coach exterior today. My coach and slide are not flat on the side so it mates a little different.
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Rick and Larrie Dee
1997 40' Newmar London Aire DP CTA 8.3 (Mechanical) 325 Spartan MM
Bringing her back to her glory.
'08 Jeep GC Overland.
I was thinking of making a bar that has two pins on the end to ease locking and unlocking the bars. I thought I read mention of such a tool in Newmar's owner's manual, but I didn't find the tool in mine, and haven't seen any pictures or forum posts by others about it. So it might be my invention after all
Some of my locks are very hard to get to and lock / unlock. Not sure if that is adjustment or just the way they are. But this would be a difficult task for most folks...I am sure that is why they were modernized.
I was even considering putting some kind of magnetic switch on the lock bars to determine their lock state so that what you went through, wouldn't be possible (a "lock out" of the Lock state). At least a visible or audio warning that the locks are locked and don't be moving the slides.
And while on the topic...to tie in the baggage door switches to not allow the slide to move when the doors are open. Did that once already...bent the baggage door...I will likely put in a security system and use magnetic door switches on the baggage doors to detect their open state. Would dually serve to add some security to the baggage goods. And could be used to trigger the baggage lights - like the current switches do.
When it gets warmer and I can get into the shop I'll putz with it.
Remove the lock bar, straighten it in vise and possibly a torch, replace it with some added plates to move the screws to get a fresh bite if redrilling the holes doesn't make sense. Hard to tell from the pics. When reattaching, you get to reset the tension based on where you locate the bar.
Without me having done it yet...I believe if the slide is ALL THE WAY IN, the bars should be very snug when closed. So that they "snap" closed and aren't wimpy. But that you are able to close them hopefully without my "invention".
Rattles, squeeks and worse the bars might unlock while driving and the slide moves out if not tight enough.
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2002 Newmar Mountain Aire Limited 4370 w/ Spartan K2 and Cummins 500hp
ASE Master Certified (a long.....time ago...)
I was thinking of making a bar that has two pins on the end to ease locking and unlocking the bars. I thought I read mention of such a tool in Newmar's owner's manual, but I didn't find the tool in mine, and haven't seen any pictures or forum posts by others about it. So it might be my invention after all
Some of my locks are very hard to get to and lock / unlock. Not sure if that is adjustment or just the way they are. But this would be a difficult task for most folks...I am sure that is why they were modernized.
I was even considering putting some kind of magnetic switch on the lock bars to determine their lock state so that what you went through, wouldn't be possible (a "lock out" of the Lock state). At least a visible or audio warning that the locks are locked and don't be moving the slides.
And while on the topic...to tie in the baggage door switches to not allow the slide to move when the doors are open. Did that once already...bent the baggage door...I will likely put in a security system and use magnetic door switches on the baggage doors to detect their open state. Would dually serve to add some security to the baggage goods. And could be used to trigger the baggage lights - like the current switches do.
When it gets warmer and I can get into the shop I'll putz with it.
Remove the lock bar, straighten it in vise and possibly a torch, replace it with some added plates to move the screws to get a fresh bite if redrilling the holes doesn't make sense. Hard to tell from the pics. When reattaching, you get to reset the tension based on where you locate the bar.
Without me having done it yet...I believe if the slide is ALL THE WAY IN, the bars should be very snug when closed. So that they "snap" closed and aren't wimpy. But that you are able to close them hopefully without my "invention".
Rattles, squeeks and worse the bars might unlock while driving and the slide moves out if not tight enough.
Attaching a photo of Newmars locking bar that should have came with the coach.
Thanks for the reply.
I can understand that there should be some effort to lock them but it just seems that mine are too long to be able to lock them, especially where they are mounted to the outside wall. The rear of my slide is almost flush all along but the front of the slide is almost flush at the top and about an inch out at the bottom.
Maybe I need to move the part that attaches to the outside wall down the wall a little until it allows me to lock them with a little effort, like yours?
Your slide should be in tight top and bottom front and rear. If it's sticking out 1" on the bottom in the front it needs to be adjusted so it's flush all along. That might be part of your problem. The locking arms only hold it in place once the motor draws it in tight.
Your slide should be in tight top and bottom front and rear. If it's sticking out 1" on the bottom in the front it needs to be adjusted so it's flush all along. That might be part of your problem. The locking arms only hold it in place once the motor draws it in tight.
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Both our DSDP's came with tge locking tool. Never used it, just my hand and I only locked the one right behind my head as it rattled as we drove.
__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft, HWH Active Air
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA,
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '21 Jeep JLU Rubicon Ecodiesel
The slide needs to be adjusted for sure - on the to do list. Maybe Newmar can adjust it at the Tampa show (or at least give me some hints)
__________________
Rick and Larrie Dee
1997 40' Newmar London Aire DP CTA 8.3 (Mechanical) 325 Spartan MM
Bringing her back to her glory.
'08 Jeep GC Overland.
__________________
Rick and Larrie Dee
1997 40' Newmar London Aire DP CTA 8.3 (Mechanical) 325 Spartan MM
Bringing her back to her glory.
'08 Jeep GC Overland.
Rotten-red,
ah yes, that's what I envisioned. Darn, was headed to the patent office.
I like their end design better. Looks like an easy fab job using some re-bar.
The video isn't displaying for me. I assume you are showing how to use the lock tool?
Thanx. I will keep a look out for the tool.
Sorry the video wouldn't play for you. Yes it shows using the tool to lock and unlock the arms. Yes you could make one out of re-bar but smooth rod would probably be neater.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_D
Both our DSDP's came with tge locking tool. Never used it, just my hand and I only locked the one right behind my head as it rattled as we drove.
I don't use the tool myself. Like you I just use the palm of my hand to push up on the arms to lock. I lock them both, but after a few bumps on the road the rear one drops down and unlocks. After 113,000 miles it's never caused an issue. So I just let it be. The front one has always stayed locked.
(or at least give me some hints)
Linear Mode
