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Old 11-28-2022, 10:39 AM   #1
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Question Slide Motor Brake

Good Morning All,

Rolled in our main slide yesterday and the slide awning shield folded backward, preventing the slide from totally retracting. I didn't know this until I inspected the wall from the outside. Afterward, the slide wouldn't respond to the panel switch. Following the instructions in the manual, I reversed the polarity on the motor wires and successfully extended the slide enough to untangle the shield, then reconnected them to their original state and retracted the slide from the panel. However, I now cannot extended the slide from the panel. The motor works fine as I can still extend/retract by bypassing the switch. I'm guessing that this has something to do with the motor-brake, but have been unable to locate any specific documentation that would help. If you've encountered this problem, please share.

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Thank you.
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Old 11-28-2022, 11:32 AM   #2
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The slide motor (controller) is fuse protected, have you checked all your fuses?
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Old 11-28-2022, 11:42 AM   #3
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I have not. I assumed the controller was working, in that I can still use the panel switch to move the slide in one direction.
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Old 11-28-2022, 01:57 PM   #4
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Run the room and have someone watch the controller. It should light up during operation. If you can post a picture of what it shows when it's not functioning, that would help determine your issue. If you swap the wires on the motor, does the the switch run it out the opposite direction?
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Old 11-28-2022, 02:14 PM   #5
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I'll do that. But to answer you question, yes, if I swap the wires on the motor the panel switch will either retract or extend, depending on polarity switch.
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Old 11-29-2022, 03:12 PM   #6
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Which Mfr controller is Newmar using in that year? Intellitec? The Intellitec controllers were pretty much bullet proof. Actually most problems with any of the Intellitec devices were grounding problems including the slides. The wires were shorted to ground that connected my controller. The techs thought the original controller was bad (also the voice module). After they pulled new power wires, both started working (I'd never heard the voice module). Some of the newer slides are hydraulic, some are electric. Our old slide is electric.

As for Slide motors. Newmar started using motors with brakes in 2006. I had both of mine replaced at the mothership and it was because the slide would creep out after being pulled in all the way. Hasn't moved since new motors were installed.
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Old 12-01-2022, 09:20 AM   #7
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Something similar happened to me. I was extending my full wall slide when one of the slicks used to protect the floor from the slideout rollers was dragged underneath the slideout and got jammed. I was able to pull out the slick without too much force, but the slide wouldn't work after that.

After extensive troubleshooting with KIB (manufacturer of the slideout controller) it was determined that the encoder was damaged. Like you, I was able to move the slide using the manual buttons on the controller, but it would not move using the buttons inside the rig.

My electric motor looks like this:

Click image for larger version

Name:	Motor 1.JPG
Views:	12
Size:	66.2 KB
ID:	381845

Newmar only sells the complete assembly consisting of the motor, gearbox, encoder and shaft sleeve, for about $1,800. You cannot buy just the motor, or just the gearbox or just the encoder from Newmar. There are different types of motors, some have a shaft sleeve for a round shaft like in the picture above while others are used with a square shaft like the picture below. My FWS has a round shaft while my kitchen slide has a square shaft. The square shafts are much easier to work with.

Click image for larger version

Name:	Motor 3.JPG
Views:	9
Size:	159.3 KB
ID:	381847

The brake for the motor is located under the black rubber boot, but they don't normally go bad very often.

Click image for larger version

Name:	Motor 2.JPG
Views:	11
Size:	133.7 KB
ID:	381846

In my case, the slideout control board was not receiving a signal from the encoder so it would not move the slide because it didn't know its exact position.

I was able to get the model number of the damaged encoder and got a replacement from the manufacturer for $145. Replacing the encoder was delicate, but after installing it and reprogramming the soft points on the controller, everything worked as it should. Saved $1,600.

Hope this helped.
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Old 12-02-2022, 06:59 AM   #8
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It looks like an Intellect controller, No lights come on when I try to extend or retract the slide. I have the slide fully retracted right now and the controller clicks when the console button is pressed. Nothing happens when I try to extend, unless I swap the motor wires.
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Old 12-02-2022, 07:05 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by traveller333 View Post
Something similar happened to me. I was extending my full wall slide when one of the slicks used to protect the floor from the slideout rollers was dragged underneath the slideout and got jammed. I was able to pull out the slick without too much force, but the slide wouldn't work after that.

After extensive troubleshooting with KIB (manufacturer of the slideout controller) it was determined that the encoder was damaged. Like you, I was able to move the slide using the manual buttons on the controller, but it would not move using the buttons inside the rig.

My electric motor looks like this:

Attachment 381845

Newmar only sells the complete assembly consisting of the motor, gearbox, encoder and shaft sleeve, for about $1,800. You cannot buy just the motor, or just the gearbox or just the encoder from Newmar. There are different types of motors, some have a shaft sleeve for a round shaft like in the picture above while others are used with a square shaft like the picture below. My FWS has a round shaft while my kitchen slide has a square shaft. The square shafts are much easier to work with.

Attachment 381847

The brake for the motor is located under the black rubber boot, but they don't normally go bad very often.

Attachment 381846

In my case, the slideout control board was not receiving a signal from the encoder so it would not move the slide because it didn't know its exact position.

I was able to get the model number of the damaged encoder and got a replacement from the manufacturer for $145. Replacing the encoder was delicate, but after installing it and reprogramming the soft points on the controller, everything worked as it should. Saved $1,600.

Hope this helped.

Very informative. Thank you.
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Old 12-05-2022, 09:22 AM   #10
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Slide Motor problem was controller issue

Thanks for all of the advice. Problem ended up being a controller. I swapped out wires with one of the other slide controllers and things worked fine. $160 and I'll be back online. Safe travels to all of you. Take care.
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