slide out adjustment

[ebprod]

I accidentally tried to put the slide out without unlocking one side. Now the slide goes out further on one side than the other. Apparently a common mistake.

I have found from searching the web that there are two possible ways to fix this. One is unlocking the trans-torque by using a 1 1/2' wrench. I tried this but I can't get it loose. I get the initial release on the nut, but that is all the further I can get it.

The other method I found is to use an allen wrench on the sprocket wheel. From looking at mine, I am unsure where to use the wrench. There are two rings just outside the brackets- are those the screws I need to loosen?

The motor home is a 1994 Kountry Aire. The motor is in the same compartment as the propane.

Thanks for any help.

-Joe

[ebprod]

OK, I am really at a loss here. I've fruitlessly tried to uncouple the 1 1/2' nut. It initially loosens, but does nothing other wise. I'm not sure this will fix it anyway. The slide seems to have jumped a sprocket.

I loosened the two rings on the outside of the sprocket brackets, but I don't see how this is supposed to loosen the sprockets. Is there another set of allen screws I can't find?

How much trouble will I be in if I don't fix the slide? Will it leak? Is the torque damaging the slide in any way? We have a trip planned for next weekend. The front of the slide is out about 3"- can I drive it this way?

Please help

-Joe

[ebprod]

I got the motor to uncouple, but even with two people we can't get the slide to move. When the motor was hooked back up the slide works again, but it is still crooked.

Any help?

-Joe

["007"]

Have you tried moving slide in & out a few times and with help push in side thats uneven?
In Quick tips there is slide info for all Newmar slide systems, have a look.

[pkmesser]

Joe, been there, done that, (twice).

If you got 1 1/2 turns on the trans-torque, as I remember, that is as far as you need to go. That coupling should be free.
Now, mine has two trans-torque couplings, with the drive in the middle, there is then one trans-orque for the front cog drive, and one for the back. What I did, before I loosened the coupling, was to drive the slide in close, but not completely closed with the slide motor. In my case, the front of the slide was what was still further out by several inches, and you are right, it had jumped a cog. I loosened the trans-torque for the rear cog drive. I then used a socket and ratchet on the drive gearbox** to use the drive gearbox to move the front of the slide in to match the rear, using a tape measure to match the distance from the outside wall to the inside edge of the slide. I then retighted the trans-torque. If your drive is different than this, then you will need to adapt accordingly. (I at first tried to initially take the slide all the way in, but because the top of the slide makes contact first, it was not working well to match up.)

**On my gearbox, on the opposite side from the motor, is a nut that turns the motor manually with a ratchet, 9/16 or 5/8's inch socket. This allows easier and finer control than trying to shove it in.

If you have any more questions, pm me, I might see the email for that sooner than the posting.

I just saw 007's posting, however, if it has jumped a cog, you are not going to solve it by pushing it in and out, you have to break the coupling, and get the "timeing" right again.

Now, part of my onboard tools, is an endwrench big enough to do this, as well as a pipe wrench to hold the other part of the coupling.

[ebprod]

Thanks for the advice, but I don't think it will work on mine. My motor is at the end of the shaft with both cog wheels on the same shaft. I need some way of adjusting the cogs independent of each other.

We have tried pushing on one end while opening the slide, but no go. I would hate to break something else in the meantime.

-Joe

Originally Posted by pkmesser

Joe, been there, done that, (twice).

If you got 1 1/2 turns on the trans-torque, as I remember, that is as far as you need to go. That coupling should be free.
Now, mine has two trans-torque couplings, with the drive in the middle, there is then one trans-orque for the front cog drive, and one for the back. What I did, before I loosened the coupling, was to drive the slide in close, but not completely closed with the slide motor. In my case, the front of the slide was what was still further out by several inches, and you are right, it had jumped a cog. I loosened the trans-torque for the rear cog drive. I then used a socket and ratchet on the drive gearbox** to use the drive gearbox to move the front of the slide in to match the rear, using a tape measure to match the distance from the outside wall to the inside edge of the slide. I then retighted the trans-torque. If your drive is different than this, then you will need to adapt accordingly. (I at first tried to initially take the slide all the way in, but because the top of the slide makes contact first, it was not working well to match up.)

**On my gearbox, on the opposite side from the motor, is a nut that turns the motor manually with a ratchet, 9/16 or 5/8's inch socket. This allows easier and finer control than trying to shove it in.

If you have any more questions, pm me, I might see the email for that sooner than the posting.

I just saw 007's posting, however, if it has jumped a cog, you are not going to solve it by pushing it in and out, you have to break the coupling, and get the "timeing" right again.

Now, part of my onboard tools, is an endwrench big enough to do this, as well as a pipe wrench to hold the other part of the coupling.

[pkmesser]

Joe, Look to make double sure there is not another coupling on the shaft between each cog drive. (I didn't know I had two, until the 2nd time I had this happen). If not, look in the quick tips, and if no help there, you will either need to disconnect one of the cog drives, or, take the slideout further out, and lift it enough with a jack for the notched beam to clear the cog, and then move it far enough to get onto a different notch in the beam.

[pkmesser]

Joe, I just looked at mine, on the shaft, at each end, is a coupling, with an allen head set screw, that would de-couple the shaft from the cog. On yours, with the drive being at one end, rather than in between, you should be able to loosen that set screw for the rear cog, (you referenced it in your first post) and then follow the same sequence as I posted doing for the trans-torqe coupling. You would then adjust by turning the drive with a ratchet, and move the front of the slide to an exact match of the rear. retighten that set screw, and should be good. If you do not have a nut to turn with a ratchet on the gearbox, you should be able to turn the shaft directly with a 24" pipe wrench. (I have done that also).

If you have not found the allen set screw, there are actually two of them on an intermediate shaft and coupling, at each end, you might need to turn the shaft to see them.

["007"]

Here is a thread on slide adjustment found in QT's.
Here is Newmars instructions with diagrams of their slip nuts on their slides.

[pkmesser]

007, Mine is the flat floor type, with the drive in the middle. But the model with the drive on the end still has a tran-torque coupling between the two cogs, I just don't think he has found it yet.

["007"]

Its described in diagrams. He can back off the Allen screw on which ever end is out to far so it frees up the cog wheel while he has help to push that side in as slide is closing.
Most are flat slides except some in bedrooms or kitchen.
Needs PB Blaster or penetrating oil to free up what ever he's trying to loosen.

[pkmesser]

That's what I see on mine, (with a mirrow, didn't turn it to see) The collar next to the bearing also felt like it had one also, but I didn't get my mirrow on it. As this set screw is "set" on the flat part of the shaft, there is not a infinate degree of adjustment as there is with the torque coupling. I strongly suspect he has a torque coupling between the two cog drives, just didn't see it. One of mine is actually in a bulkhead, harder to get the wrench on it, but it is there.

["007"]

Either one but he needs the tools to work them loose and help pushing the slide in after rollers get up the incline ramp.

[ebprod]

We had to pack it up and leave for the weekend, so I won't get to it again until next Saturday. We are leaving on a trip on Sunday, so I hope I can get it fixed before then. Otherwise, I suppose I will just have to live with it for this trip.

There are some connections at the midway point between the cogs. One of them will fit the 1 1/2" wrench, so that must be a second coupler. I will give that a try.

The first coupler was pretty darn hard to get loose. I tried to put it back together before we left, but I could only get the wrench to move about 1/2 turn. Does this mean the coupler is still apart? The motor was engaged and the slide moved anyway.

I really appreciate the help. It is pretty frustrating to do something so stupid when everything else was going so well.

Joe